LOTS of oil in the pressure pipes.

kk, sorry overlooked that line haha

if he has issues with leakdown though he's going to notice burning oil and it's still not going to cause oil in the intake piping...the only way he would get THAT much oil in the intake piping is from blown seals in the turbo, the pcv could cause oil in the intake pipe as well (and does) but with THAT much oil that really leans me towards the turbo

I agree though, replace the cheap parts first and see if it resolves the problem, but at least start saving up for this issue if it doesn't resolve the problem and be prepared
 
car idles fine and everything. i didnt even notice the problem until about a few weeks ago when i noticed oil dripping from the pipe connecting the hotpipe to the BPV. and how do i do this leakdown test??
 
significant blow-by COULD be causing this over time... since there is oil on the intake side of the turbo, I think its necessary to at least look into problems other than the turbo itself... without at least checking into some stuff I don't think anyone can definitely say what is wrong. once we rule out a couple other things, then we can start looking at turbo seals.. if he hasn't noticed this in oil consumption yet, then my bet is its a small problem that is VERY slowly getting worse, which is (overall) uncharacteristic of a turbo seal... thats not to say its impossible.
 
kk, sorry overlooked that line haha

if he has issues with leakdown though he's going to notice burning oil and it's still not going to cause oil in the intake piping...the only way he would get THAT much oil in the intake piping is from blown seals in the turbo, the pcv could cause oil in the intake pipe as well (and does) but with THAT much oil that really leans me towards the turbo

I agree though, replace the cheap parts first and see if it resolves the problem, but at least start saving up for this issue if it doesn't resolve the problem and be prepared

well no all that oil is not in the intake pipe. there was oil in the intake pipe but BARELY any. just a thin film. the bulk was at the bottom of the coldpipe right as it exits the SMIC.
 
car idles fine and everything. i didnt even notice the problem until about a few weeks ago when i noticed oil dripping from the pipe connecting the hotpipe to the BPV. and how do i do this leakdown test??
a leakdown test requires a specialized air tool that screws into the spark plug hole...
 
well no all that oil is not in the intake pipe. there was oil in the intake pipe but BARELY any. just a thin film. the bulk was at the bottom of the coldpipe right as it exits the SMIC.

over time, gravity would ensure that this is where it would collect regardless of exactly where the problem actually is. if the intake was clear I would suspect the turbo, but we may as well start diagnosing from as far upstream as the problem reaches.
 
ya well im just in the process of installing my Turbolife FMIC so i cant get it running for a while yet. so would i need to take it to a shop to do a leakdown test?
 
leakdown test procedure:
Connect leakdown tester to the spark plug hole, fully pressurize air compressor, zero out gauge, then open the valve. if it hold, move to the next cylinder. if the needle indicates a leak, then put your ear to the 3 places I mentioned earlier, and listen for air escaping, THEN move onto the next cylinder.
 
ya well im just in the process of installing my Turbolife FMIC so i cant get it running for a while yet. so would i need to take it to a shop to do a leakdown test?
see if you can rent one at your local auto parts store. it would actually be easier while in the middle of this install.
 
okay well ya i got an air compressor and all that so ill see if i can rent the tool. and i dont have the pipes totally intalled yet so the engine is pretty much bare. would that cause a problem? the turbo has nothing connected to it nor does the TB and the PCV valve hose is not connected to anything
 
no, having that disconnected will make it easier to listen for leaks. most of the time this test is done.. its to determine what parts will be replaced in a full rebuild... just so you're prepared if my hunch is correct.
 
alright well ill leave absolutely everything disconnected then and check. so if i hear nothing from any of the cylinders then its the tubo??
 
again, blow by would NOT cause oil in the intake or intercooler piping, it would cause white smoke from the exhaust and would cause oil dripping from the exhaust

the exhaust side is separate from the intake side of the turbo, separated by the central rotation housing and the seals...if the seals are bad then you will have oil in the intake piping and/or the exhaust, not from blow by...blow by would cause excessive oil in the exhaust, yes, but it would first need to have blown seals to appear in the intake side of the engine

I don't mean to sound like an ass, I'm just saying...it's not going to tell you much about this situation to do a leak down test

if you very little oil in the intake pipe but a lot in the intercooler piping that isn't due to gravity (the intake pipe is lower than the hot pipe)...that is because it's the seals and not the pcv
 
again, blow by would NOT cause oil in the intake or intercooler piping, it would cause white smoke from the exhaust and would cause oil dripping from the exhaust

the exhaust side is separate from the intake side of the turbo, separated by the central rotation housing and the seals...if the seals are bad then you will have oil in the intake piping and/or the exhaust, not from blow by...blow by would cause excessive oil in the exhaust, yes, but it would first need to have blown seals to appear in the intake side of the engine

I don't mean to sound like an ass, I'm just saying...it's not going to tell you much about this situation to do a leak down test

if you very little oil in the intake pipe but a lot in the intercooler piping that isn't due to gravity (the intake pipe is lower than the hot pipe)...that is because it's the seals and not the pcv

blow by equals abnormal pressure in the crankcase, which would cause misted oil to be forced through the PCV, which, over a long period of time COULD cause this. I'm not trying to say definitively that this IS the cause, but, for the cost of tool rental, whats it going to hurt?

As an added bonus, if everything holds well, you can throw egg on my face, and you know your engine isn't abused and you're in good shape as far as that goes...

Edit: I don't mean to say that the PCV itself is the problem either, however, this condition could have prematurely worn the PCV, and as far as a bandaid fix, it may help in the short term... at least until a rebuild becomes possible... or to make selling the car easier so the OP can find an engine in better shape.
 
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ya well the car does burn some oil to and u can smell it more the higher the RPM naturally. so ur thinkin it must be seals then forsure??
 
no matter what i am not rebuilding the engine hahaha not on a FWD car.. noway in hell lol. if i need to do that i will do a temporary fix and sell the car haha. i wana sell it anyway i just dont wana totally screw over the buyer
 
if you've noticed oil consumption, have you been monitoring the rate? if its steadily going up I'd lean toward the seals... honestly, half the reason I'm leaning on the leakdown test is so you KNOW if you have a MAJOR problem or not...
 

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