loss of power when hot/higher gears rpms

[mp3-79bronco]

ive got a hks so its not that

 

[just_B]

just a thought =)

 

[mp3-79bronco]

i actually think i found my prob. i got the codes check and i have 2. one for malfunctioning speedo ( i have no speedo gear) and the second for lean in bank 1....so i think im in limp mode and its pulling timing

 

[mazdaspeedp]

i actually think i found my prob. i got the codes check and i have 2. one for malfunctioning speedo ( i have no speedo gear) and the second for lean in bank 1....so i think im in limp mode and its pulling timing

what is limp mode?

 

[jeanspeed]

i also have the same problem.... i have a fmic, hks bov hard pipes front and rear mount. and have a aem wideband. it hit 10 all the time. and when it starts running alright it 10.5-11.3 but them later back to 10.... i have ems a greddy ultimate but i dont kknow if its going to wirk. havnt heard any one using this system.. has any heard anyone here using that system??????????????

 

[orng1]

what is limp mode?

When you need viagra. (stfu)


LOL no when the ECU sees an error code or codes and retards timing and adds fuel to save itself from blowing up.

 

[ASmitty]

I have the same issue, and I am running and upgraded sidemount, INJEN cai, vibrant, hardpipes for both the hot and cold, and unichip. My WGA is fine, I hold the correct boost I have it set for and the correct vaccum. Kind of leads me to believe A: it's heatsoak, B: my unichip has a s*** tune. I do run insanely rich still, will add that. May I'll send my unichip off to crossover auto guys for a tune.

 

[Warlock2X]

mine has done the same thing since i owned it (stock) i put an FMIC and hard pipes thinking that would possibly fix it and it still seemed to be doing it, next step is a unichip, and along with it a T28 from an older skyline, 440cc injectors, and re routed hard pipes

 

[orng1]

Mine hasn't done that since I went with the T3, the extra air flow really helps lean out the stupid rich fueling by the ECU.

 

[mazdaspeedp]

turbonetics?

 

[RFC]

I want to bring this back up as mine is doing the same thing. Any solutions?

My boost comes on normally but the car barely accelerates. Its like something is blocking the intake or something. This also occurs only after the car is completey warmed up. It is absolutely not fuel cut because I know what that is and how it feels. Also like the original poster it seems to free up somewhat (although not smooth) above 5,000 rpm or so.

I have heard heat soak here but can someone explain exactly what that does to limit acceleration like this? Again my boost is about where I would expect it at 7-8 psi. It just doesn't go.

 

[CHIQLES]

I think the solution is a fan for the intercooler for idle moments and a water sprayer for after hard driving when the car is shut off. when the car is not being used and has been run for a while all the heat sits in the engine bay and and is being absorbed by everything in it includeing intercoolers front\side doesnt matter. when you get back in the car the intercooler is actualy a pre-heater now becuase the air is actualy hotter after passing through it. Im not sure how much time it actually takes to drop your temps down on the intercooler back to its actual productivity point but a water sprayer should nock it down faster. does this make sense?

 

[orng1]

It sounds way to much like heat soak to me. with a good intercooler and getting rid of the T 2 small it eliminates a lot of that.

 

[LUI.MSP]

Any update? Exact same thing with mine hot or cool weather.

 

[msp1986]

i replaced my stock smic with a fmic kit and it fixed my problem..(im the one that started this post) of course it still lags a little because of the s*** tune even with a flashed ecu. i have come to find that an FMIC with the shortest piping route and maybe a little heat wrap is the best way to fix this. even the upgraded smic kits get way hot because eventhough they flow better they still sit right next to the HOT radiator. unfortunately this can make a car run even richer.. but im looking into a fuel pressure reducer made for our cars or a good tune on an AFC using an afr meter.

 

[msp1986]

oh and cold weather certainly does help things... but thats with any car

 

[M4N B4G]

ok mine pulls hard for the first like 2 min and then as soon as its warm it bogs really bad when I go into boost. I have the Corksport fmic and the cold pipe is cold to the touch even once the car is warm so i dont think mine is heatsoak. I've triple checked all the piping connections and i have NO CELs. The other thing i've noticed is the spool sound changes once it is warm to a much louder sound and thats when i starts sucking. It always boosts fine but once its warm it hits the wall as soon as it crosses the 0 on the boost gauge. Out of ideas PLEASE HELP. Anyone with this that they have fixed?

BTW I dont think the car has the Mazda re-flash, does the same thing w/ BOV or BPV

 

[NocturnalSpeed]

We all just need a tune... I put a Turbolife/Perrin FMIC and SRI; didn't solve it. Recently installed a exhaust manifold and 3" from the downpipe back; still hits a wall.

Get a EMS and tune it. Tha'ts my next object.

 

[orng1]

You still have the factory midpipe?

 

[NocturnalSpeed]

mybad, yes I do..