LinuxRacr's Haltech E6X Log..

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Yeah, if a bolt is missing, you need to correct that first..lol!

yeah, you make it sound so obvious ;-)

to be clear, not where it mounts to the head, but where the two halves of the intake manifold bolt to each other. It took me a while to find that, but there it is. Hopefully that will solve my problem. I got the wrong bolt from the dealership before I moved, and now that I'm in my new place, I'll see about getting the right one. Maybe Home Depot will have one in stock since dealers take a while for parts like that.

 

[LinuxRacr]

what happens if set too high? any ideas what the major "bucking" i get could be?

Check this right here....

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1489247#post1489247

 

[LinuxRacr]

Ok, so I've been looking at converting my boost lines to the hard plastic Polyurethane hose like pictured below on this K20 Motor:

I forsee one problem...my boost control solenoid. It is the one that came from Hiboost, that is made by Eaton. The plastic barbs off of it are considerably larger than my other vac/boost barbs in my engine bay. I looked on the Haltech website, and found that the solenoid they sell has 1/8 NPT-threaded ports (so I can put in my own barbs, or John Guest quick-connect fittings), but is is about $89!

I notice that this looks just like the AEM boost control solenoid that sells for $106!:

Damn, these things are HIGH!!

I did some digging on the internet, and found out that the solenoids are actually made by MAC Valves, and sell for about $20. The only drawback is that they are built to order, and have a 4-week lead-time.



The part number is:

35A-AAA-DDEA-1BA (12.7 Watt, 12, volt)


They also have a 5.4 Watt, 12 volt solenoid:

35A-AAA-DDBA-1BA

Here is a good place to get them for $26:

http://www.frightprops.com/FrightProps/Props/CategoryW.asp?ID=A-0013-0082

You need the 12 volt, 1/8 sized orifice.

Instructions for correct setup of boost control solenoid: http://www.haltech.com/downloads/connectors/boost_control_solenoid.pdf

 

[Maxx Mazda]

Yup they're all the exact same!

 

[glyph]

What would a solenoid like that offer over your current one? (other than fitting size)

 

[LinuxRacr]

With the E6X, that's about it. I like the ability to add any type of 1/8 NPT fitting I need.

 

[Maxx Mazda]

Does your haltech solenoid have fixed nipples or something? Mine were all eigth npt screw in...

 

[LinuxRacr]

Yeah, mine have fixed barb nipples (plastic), and is made by Eaton. Here is a picture from the first page of the thread:

 

[Maxx Mazda]

Crazy. Mine was the exact one you pictured above. (The blue one.)

 

[LinuxRacr]

Did yours come from HiBoost? Mine did.

 

[Maxx Mazda]

No I got mine right from Haltech Australia.

 

[LinuxRacr]

That's why.

 

[LinuxRacr]

I picked up a package from my front porch. It was the 5.4-watt Mac Valve (35A-AAA-DDBA-1BA). I actually had forgotten that I ordered it!!

 

[LinuxRacr]

Ok, I swapped out the boost control valves/solenoid, and I believe the boost control is more accurate now...

 

[kivi]

So wich one is the same solenoid as the haltech solenoid 5.4w or 12.7w? or does it matter?

 

[LinuxRacr]

The higher wattage solenoid is the one that Haltech/AEM uses I believe. I got the 5.4w, and it has been fine.

 

[LinuxRacr]

So today I pulled out my old RX-7 460cc S5 non-turbo injectors, and replaced them with the dark blue, 2007 565cc WRX injectors. Since I haven't seen my original fuel rail bolts, I had to rig up something a little special with the injector spacers to accommodate the longer bolt I had to use before:

 

[LinuxRacr]

Retuning for these new injectors is fun! The car is a whole new beast now!

 

[LinuxRacr]

Every since I changed out the injectors, I haven't had the infamous ignition pop when turning the key to ACC. No more 20 PSI spikes, before even turning the engine on.

 

[glyph]

huh. Good point. I used to get that all the time until I went with the 440s. I forgot to notice. I know, completely different ones than you have, but still interesting.