Link to rotating strut bearings

[Matthew]

there was a website that had pictures and descriptions of how to rotate your strut bearings if they were jacked up (like mine, the dots arent in the right location on the driver's side strut from when i orginally installed my tein springs over a year ago). i cant find the link anymore, i thought i had saved it in my favorites but i guess i didnt. i want to rotate my strut tommorrow so i can install my falken tires without fear of wasting them due to uneven wear.

 

[Matthew]

bump

 

[RyanJayG]

page 2 http://protege5.ugly.net/02-11.PDF

 

[chinaman]

You will need an alignment. Have you never gotten one??(hand)

 

[Matthew]

no im looking for the link that describes what all parts you have to loosen and s*** to rotate the thing.. i hate the shop manual, i like less complicated and better written instructions.

 

[Matthew]

You will need an alignment. Have you never gotten one??(hand)

alll i have to do is rotate the strut myself until the dot is in the correct position. that is the only thing ****** up with my alignment.

 

[RyanJayG]

to just move it all you have to do it remove 4 nuts, drop it down, and turn it.... that easy

 

[chinaman]

I would have your toe checked anyway

 

[Matthew]

are you sure, i thought i had to disconnect the sway bar or tie rods or some s***...and have both wheels off and the car on jackstands.

 

[RyanJayG]

eh.. it only needs to come down like an inch... the sway bar should flex enough to turn the ******. and if you cant, then disconnect the top of the endlink on one side... then it will drop freely.

 

[Matthew]

hrm, ill have to take out my dogs first then try that. im waiting to do that before i get my new falkens mounted.

 

[RyanJayG]

if you do have to remove one endlink then becareful when lowering the strut to not damage your brake line

 

[Matthew]

yea i remember...i had set my strut on a block so it didnt strech the line.

 

[rustychops41]

You don't have to loosen either end-link. Jack up both sides in front, after removing the 4 14MM nuts on each side. Now raise the front until the studs just clear the bottom of the fenderwell. Nothing will fall off/out (like halfshafts, etc.) You can reach down into the hole and turn the plate, it won't be very difficult, just some resistance is all. When you get them where you want them (paint marks towards the front corners of the car, if you are wanting what most people are wanting from this "mod"), slowly lower the car back over the plates. Having an extra person helps at this stage. Usually one side will go in the holes before the other, have him/her lower the jack while you guide the studs in, one side at a time. Once they even start in , you can put the nuts on to hold it from falling out if you need to jack it back up again to get the other side in, the sway bar isn't stiff enough to hinder travel that much. While the toe change should be minimal if at all (especially if you didn't alter camber I.E. from stock position to "max caster" position) it wouldn't hust to at least have the toe set, rather than paying for a full blown Four Wheel Alignment. The steering will fell a bit heavier, the wheel will tend to "self-center" better coming out of turns.

 

[Matthew]

i was just going to set them to the stock location, which is if youre looking at the front of the car to the upper left and upper right positions. i miss the stiff steering i had before. that oppositie position will cause uneven tire wear, will it not?

 

[slamdp5]

Just drop the strut, turn the plate and put it back in. Can't take more than 15 or 20 mins per wheel. (2thumbs)

 

[Matthew]

i only need to do one.

 

[slamdp5]

so 15 mins or so. should not be a prob at all.

 

[KYREDP5]

Eh, I tried it without disconnecting the endlink, got it to work on one side, but ended up having to take the endlink off on the other side.

 

[Matthew]

maybe ill get lucky