Lewis7789 2002 Protege5 build thread (tons of pics)
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Won't shift at redline if your foot is on it. It will go all the way up to whatever limiter is in place...whether it be in the ECU or in the distributor. Gotta lift for it to shift.
princess peach
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- '92 Miata, '06 MS6
there's very few brands that do that (Peugeot), but most are restricted
Such is the nature of the beast. Normally, they physically can't. Pressure is too high inside the transmission to allow it to. Downshifting is a different story tho. Go WOT in 4th gear at 40 mph, kick down linkage does it's job, down to 2nd it goes.
Another option is a shift kit... not sure if those are made for that transmission or not.
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Don't get me wrong, this car will never be at WOT, especially to redline. It's just odd that it wouldn't shift. All the automatic cars I've driven will upshift at redline. Weird that the Milly doesn't. Oh well.
And the CEL is on for a knock sensor. Fuuuuu... If I need to replace it that's gonna suck. So I'll probably just register the Milly and the P6 at the same time this month at my GF's house where they don't have e-check. But other than that, it's a great car for cruising.
Now onto the the P6 now that the garage is cleaned up and she's parked in there for winter hibernation.
And the CEL is on for a knock sensor. Fuuuuu... If I need to replace it that's gonna suck. So I'll probably just register the Milly and the P6 at the same time this month at my GF's house where they don't have e-check. But other than that, it's a great car for cruising.
Now onto the the P6 now that the garage is cleaned up and she's parked in there for winter hibernation.
Yeah, I remember you were the one who told me about where it's mounted between the heads, under the IM and a coolant line, past poison darts, a snake pit and a giant rolling boulder. Thus why I'm in no hurry to replace it. Haha
I'll probably pull the wiring harnesses (P5 and Milly) this weekend. I will probably offer up the Milly stuff FS since there are a lot of KL swaps going on now and I'll be going with MS. Then I'll get the gauges set up this weekend and remove more stuff I will no longer need like speaker wire and stuff. I'm not sure if I want to gut the rear or not.
I'll probably pull the wiring harnesses (P5 and Milly) this weekend. I will probably offer up the Milly stuff FS since there are a lot of KL swaps going on now and I'll be going with MS. Then I'll get the gauges set up this weekend and remove more stuff I will no longer need like speaker wire and stuff. I'm not sure if I want to gut the rear or not.
then you are removing weight by gutting only to be adding weight with the undercoating and that my friend is very counter-productive for a race car
PrinceValorum
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- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
I would come pick up that seat, but the dummy at AirGas still hasn't gotten the liner for my mig gun, so if it's cool with you, I'll just wait until I'm ready to weld the brackets to pick up the driver's seat.
That sucks about the knock sensor, but a ratchet shifter would be cool as hell in that gramps mobile.
That sucks about the knock sensor, but a ratchet shifter would be cool as hell in that gramps mobile.
No problem, Wes. The car isn't going anywhere.
I was thinking about spraying rubberized coating too, AJ. Just to cut down on some of the sound and give it a uniform color. Much like I did in my Civic when I gutted it. It was just a light coat of bed liner so I doubt it really added much weight back, Levi. And I'm not building a "track car", it will be still my fun road car as well. So there still needs to be a balance of streetability.
I was thinking about spraying rubberized coating too, AJ. Just to cut down on some of the sound and give it a uniform color. Much like I did in my Civic when I gutted it. It was just a light coat of bed liner so I doubt it really added much weight back, Levi. And I'm not building a "track car", it will be still my fun road car as well. So there still needs to be a balance of streetability.
you used to talk about making it a track toy, now you are saying its not a "track car" well make up your mind dude... 
no, last i heard you say it was gonna be a track car and figured that didnt change, since you now have the DD up and running
im not trying to be difficult or argumentative, im just trying to bring up some legit points/help make ya think
if you want to maintain the balance why gut it? all gutting then applying bedliner is going to to is make extra work/money spent that doesnt really need spent...
to get any sort of sound deadening out of it, you will have to have it thicker than you want thus adding more weight than you would anticipate... if you want just a uniform color why not just paint it?
i understand the whole balance of streetability/track fun and im just trying to help bring up ideas to help save you uneeded work/time/money..
no, last i heard you say it was gonna be a track car and figured that didnt change, since you now have the DD up and running
im not trying to be difficult or argumentative, im just trying to bring up some legit points/help make ya think
if you want to maintain the balance why gut it? all gutting then applying bedliner is going to to is make extra work/money spent that doesnt really need spent...
to get any sort of sound deadening out of it, you will have to have it thicker than you want thus adding more weight than you would anticipate... if you want just a uniform color why not just paint it?
i understand the whole balance of streetability/track fun and im just trying to help bring up ideas to help save you uneeded work/time/money..
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I see your points, no worries. But when I say it will be a "track car" I don't mean only a track car. It will still have plates and I'll still drive it on the street occasionally. I like the bedliner because it will hold up better than just spray paint. I'll be toting my track wheels, tool box and jack in the back. It's kinda functional as well. But I'm sure I'll be able to remove a few pounds by stripping even more of the interior. But at the same time, I'm not sure I want to remove more interior simply because of the sound deadening of the carpet and such. I don't have any plans on buying a truck/trailer in the next 5 years so I'll just have to see how loud it is in the cabin when more interior is removed. I don't want the 2 hour drive to Mid-Ohio to make me go deaf. Ya know?
A lot of the restoration guys on this pro-touring site I'm on will use spray on bedliner on the inside floorboards. Seems like a hot thing to do!
The most popular stuff is called Lizard Skin. It's specifically for sound deadening.
http://www.lizardskin.com/
The most popular stuff is called Lizard Skin. It's specifically for sound deadening.
http://www.lizardskin.com/
PrinceValorum
Member
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- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
I think any different in weight would be negligible. I don't see how it would be more than a few cans of product to do the interior in liner, and it won't weight more than the cans themselves, so maybe a few lbs max.
I really don't see how much all the interior could weigh itself? After taking mine apart to do the rustproofing, those rear hatch area pieces don't weigh jack! Same with the rear door panels and rear gate trim. The carpet would be the heaviest, but you'd have to cut it in half if you wanted to keep carpet up by the front floorboards.
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