Lewis7789 2002 Protege5 build thread (tons of pics)

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MP5Mat said:
Haha fair enough. I could understand that for sure. Ok I have nothing but time. So next year is GREAT for me. Im pretty pumped for this thanks! Next year time frame gives me time to get her painted. Nothing like sun baked yellow. As far a price what generally does it costs to do these swaps? I looked on CL in the area area and saw tons of cars with klde's for under 1500. Would that be the way to go as all parts are there or order a crate motor?
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Sounds good, mate. And it all really kinda depends on how big you want to go with your KL swap. You can buy a junkyard KL from a Probe GT, MX-6, 626 or Millenia as they all have the 165hp KLDE. And just use OEM parts like stock headers, ECU, and clutch, etc. Or you can buy after market parts to put on before the swap. Or you can order a JDM KLDE ("Millenia", Eunos8, or Xedos9 170hp ~$900 shipped) or JDM KLZE (200hp, ~#1200 shipped). It all really depends how much money you want to spend and how much power you want you P5 to have. To put in into perspective I think I spent about $3500 on my JDM motor, JDM trans and all the after market parts I got.

CTt3P5 said:
Geez....haven't checked th thread out in a few days and now you are doing more engine swaps, buying tools that aren't on the list and hooking up with toothless chicks. lol Well, good luck over the winter with getting everything done on both the P5 and the Milly. If I was closer I'd be up for coming over to learn some as I know you wouldn't let me touch anything....which is a smart move on your part. hahaha
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HAHA! Jeff, you would get a kick out the the garage shop talk we have. This swaps motto has been "...cut iiiiittttt...". This time around I had some money saved up for the Milly swap so if something is being a b**** we'll just cut it. Haha. But you're right, I still wouldn't let you touch anything. I think I let Wes pick up a wrench once and Pablo unbolted a couple bolts. And Kevin wasn't allowed in the garage. But everything is coming along well. I just work very slowly. :)

I'll probably make a Milly build thread to give the Milly section a bit of a bump and to keep the P6 thread free of Milly clutter.
 
I can actually visualize Kevin sitting on top of a five gallon bucket in the driveway, staring into the garage with a sad puppy dog look on his face.
 
MP5Mat said:
Thanks guys! That means alot to me!
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and youre service means even more to us. if i could bring myself to leave my car and not drive, then i would have enlisted already. so i know i speak for all of us when i say thank you for all that youve done to maintain our freedom and safety.
 
Lewis7789 said:
Sounds good, mate. And it all really kinda depends on how big you want to go with your KL swap. You can buy a junkyard KL from a Probe GT, MX-6, 626 or Millenia as they all have the 165hp KLDE. And just use OEM parts like stock headers, ECU, and clutch, etc. Or you can buy after market parts to put on before the swap. Or you can order a JDM KLDE ("Millenia", Eunos8, or Xedos9 170hp ~$900 shipped) or JDM KLZE (200hp, ~#1200 shipped). It all really depends how much money you want to spend and how much power you want you P5 to have. To put in into perspective I think I spent about $3500 on my JDM motor, JDM trans and all the after market parts I got.

Ok cool, Well I would prefer to drop her in w/headers and a stage one clutch. Im good with the KLZE. I was looking into about 4G's when the dust settles. Pretty much as much as the wife lets me spend. haha.
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So does anyone know how you tighten these castle nuts back onto the ball joints? They just spin and there isn't a spot to hold the the bolt shaft still with a wrench or allen wrench...

They look like this.
W01331603841FEQ.JPG


CT05981.jpg


Part numbers 34-D00 and 34-C00.

I don't want to have to buy new ones...
 
Sometimes I can get a pair of needle nose vice grips on the shaft enough to hold it, but it usually damages the boot because you have to kind of, slide the boot back with the vice grips and grab it there because that's the only room for them to fit.

And WTF...no update on the project? Dick...
 
I've always been able to get it with an impact. God knows i've had those damn things apart enough times for wheel bearings.
 
Yeah, we tried using the impact but the nuts and bolts are a little banged up from the bfh. I did a quick look on eBay and they aren't too crazy expensive so I'll just pick up some new ones. I need to swap the oil pans for the exhaust to clear it, hook up the wiring harness, fuel li es and air box and try to start her up. So far everything has went pretty smoothly. Yay for no rusted bolts!
 
Oh there are still a ton of things I still need to do. I just didn't feel it necessary to list everything since its just the Milly swap. Good news is I get to keep my 3bolt JDM intermediate shaft for the ZE since apparently they are pretty rare.
 
They are hard to find...this is true..

For the castle nut..just try to load the ball joint, so that it pushes the 'ball' down into the cup. This will prevent the ball/stud from spinning.
 
Well, since the shafts on the ball joints are usually tapered have you tried to take another jack and push the ball joint upwards while tightening? Usually that does the trick
 
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