Lewis7789 2002 Protege5 build thread (tons of pics)

[PrinceValorum]

Maybe 13lbs or torque? Heh-heh. It's only a 3/8 impact and I think 65lbs max. I'll keep it as a spare I guess. But the 3/8 air wrachet will be nice for wrenching since it's also 65lbs of torque for the easier bolts and such. But like I said, my Craftsman 1/2" impact is my baby and will continue to be the first weapon of choice.

ps- Wes, I'm cleaning/organzing my half of the garage and setting up the compressor and crap this weekend so probably next weekend we can tackle your axle.

No problemo, organization makes life soo much easier. But I did notice in my manual that the hub nut is supposed to be torqued down to 175-235 ft/lbs... I think that means: stand on the breaker bar.

 

[justanothermp5]

no, that means..lay on the impact until it doesnt turn anymore lol

 

[bullshark524]

and then get out a 5' breaker bar like this guy
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...-Service-LOTS-OF-PICS&highlight=wheel+bearing

 

[Lewis7789]

That's an epic How-To. Thanks for posting that up, Bull.

Wes, we're removed axles before, it's not that tough. Breaker bars and that axle puller tool from Autozoe and we'll be fine, mate.

 

[CheeseHelmet]

That's an epic How-To. Thanks for posting that up, Bull.

Wes, we're removed axles before, it's not that tough. Breaker bars and that axle puller tool from Autozoe and we'll be fine, mate.

Is this the tool you're talking about?

 

[PrinceValorum]

Is this the tool you're talking about?
http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/grn/27037/image/4/

Yup, that's it.

That's an epic How-To. Thanks for posting that up, Bull.

Wes, we're removed axles before, it's not that tough. Breaker bars and that axle puller tool from Autozoe and we'll be fine, mate.

I meant for putting them back on, actually Still, shouldn't be too much of a problem.

 

[THE Phen]

No messing around with the torque on the axle nut. You can potentially damage the wheel bearing or CV joint.

 

[Lewis7789]

Well the CV joint is already trashed, that's why we're changing the axle. How would you remove the axle nut then, Phen?

 

[CheeseHelmet]

Well the CV joint is already trashed, that's why we're changing the axle. How would you remove the axle nut then, Phen?

I think he was trying to imply that you should be very careful when setting the torque on the axle nut. Blindly tightening it with a big-ass impact wrench might kill the bearing which is why a torque wrench should be used.

 

[magnumP5]

A point of advice on the axle nuts: if you don't want to replace them (recommended by Mazda) switch the sides. This way the "staked" sections won't line up, forcing you to make a new one. I'm hesitant to stake the same area twice as you're plastically deforming the metal twice, thus severely weakening it.

The rear axle nuts on the RX-7 are 200 ft-lbs MINIMUM! Yeah, those were a b**** to break loose with a 3' breakerbar.

 

[THE Phen]

Well the CV joint is already trashed, that's why we're changing the axle. How would you remove the axle nut then, Phen?

Remove with impact... that's fine. Don't put it back on with the impact...even though it has such a high torque rating.

 

[Lewis7789]

Werd. I'll have to check to see what the maximum amount of torque on my torque wrench is. Though I don't really see breaking that axle nut, I do see your points.

 

[KZL_99ES]

you should get a snap-on impact gun, i saw one on their site that goes up to 880 ft/lbs! that'll take anything off! lol ...it's also $450...

 

[PrinceValorum]

I don't think it's really a good idea to put any nuts on with an impact. Yeah, it may just be my overprotective logic, but even if it only says that it's putting out so much torque on a certain setting (forward), it's the rapid impacts that probably create undue stress. I'll stick with my torque wrench. I just don't have one that goes up over 80 lbs, which is kind of what started this, I guess.

 

[CheeseHelmet]

I agree^

Harbor Freight sells a 1/2" torque wrench that goes up to 150ft-lbs IIRC, you can get it on sale for $20.

 

[THE Phen]

That's the one I just bought.

 

[Lewis7789]

I hear ya, Wes. I don't really use my impact to put any bolts back on, other than my lugnuts. I like Harbor Frieght tools, but for something like a torque wrench I spent a little extra money and bought a Husky (~$85) for the piece of mind the torque specs of the wrench are better. If you're going to use the torque wrench in the first place, better make sure they are right. I bought mine for when the KL got torn down. But an 8 piece screwdriver set for $4? Yes please.

 

[CheeseHelmet]

I hear ya, Wes. I don't really use my impact to put any bolts back on, other than my lugnuts. I like Harbor Frieght tools, but for something like a torque wrench I spent a little extra money and bought a Husky (~$85) for the piece of mind the torque specs of the wrench are better. If you're going to use the torque wrench in the first place, better make sure they are right. I bought mine for when the KL got torn down. But an 8 piece screwdriver set for $4? Yes please.

Of course it's a piece of crap, but for the money at least you know you're in the right ballpark when tightening things (most torque specs are 5-10%). They have a lifetime warranty which is handy, I have to get mine replaced because the ratchet has a tendency to slip at high torque (#1 cause of bleeding knuckles).

If ever I have to do any proper engine work (like removing the head) I'd totally get a good torque wrench, but for anything else I don't think it's that important.

 

[THE Phen]

A torque wrench is only as good as it's calibration. A $200 torque wrench that needs calibrated is no better than a breaker bar to be honest.

 

[CheeseHelmet]

A torque wrench is only as good as it's calibration. A $200 torque wrench that needs calibrated is no better than a breaker bar to be honest.

Indeed, the HF torque wrench actually came with a little piece of paper indicating that it was calibrated to within 3-4% at the factory. If that's true or not, I'll never know