KOYO Racing Aluminum performance radiator for Mazda2

[Tom_Mazda2]

For those of you looking for a High Performance cooling solution for the Mazda2, KOYORAD is offering up high performance aluminum radiator. I have not heard of or seen anyone here on the forums that has one these for their Mazda2. I'm thinking about getting one because my Mazda2 starts getting pretty hot after long track day sessions at my local road course.

http://www.racingbeat.com/Mazda-2/Cooling-System/77320.html

- Tom

 

[zps2004]

how hot is pretty hot?

 

[Tom_Mazda2]

After a 20min track session my Mazda2 sometimes gets up to 232 degress and after a cool down lap it is usually at 228. That's a lttile too hot for my comfort level because the Mazda2's normal opertaing temp in 190.

 

[zps2004]

Strange. I don't think any of the b-spec cars change the radiator and I know they have run the 25h events without problem. That is with the oil cooler as well.

I agree that 232 seems warm for our cars. Then again on C6 corvettes the fans don't go into high speed until 250.

 

[scoobs]

If I ever need a new one I'll get that one instead of oem, but like zps2004 said, B-spec runs the oem rad an seem to be ok. Maybe Corksport should pitch in on this one with their findings on racing temps...

 

[CorkSport]

I highest I have seen at buttonwillow on a 90 degree day was 225 after running for 30 minutes. I do not have the A/C condensor installed anymore to the air gets a straight shot into the radiator which helps out some.

-Derrick

 

[scoobs]

I highest I have seen at buttonwillow on a 90 degree day was 225 after running for 30 minutes. I do not have the A/C condensor installed anymore to the air gets a straight shot into the radiator which helps out some.

-Derrick

Thanks for the feed back Derrick

 

[Tom_Mazda2]

Strange. I don't think any of the b-spec cars change the radiator and I know they have run the 25h events without problem. That is with the oil cooler as well.

I agree that 232 seems warm for our cars. Then again on C6 corvettes the fans don't go into high speed until 250.

I know that the Oil Cooler for the B-spec cars has a lot to do with keeping those Mazda2's cool. It's a shame that Mazdaspeed doesn't offer the stand-alone oil cooler separate from the B-spec kit.

I have a Ultra Gauge in my car so I can get a digital readout of engine temps. I noticed the electric fan in the Mazda2 kicks on at 220 degrees.

The highest I have seen at buttonwillow on a 90 degree day was 225 after running for 30 minutes. I do not have the A/C condensor installed anymore to the air gets a straight shot into the radiator which helps out some.

-Derrick

I was looking at the A/C Condenser and it pretty much covers the entire front part of the radiator. I think If I delete the A/C and go with this KOYO raditor that I will never have to worry about over-heating at the track.

Also, at Nelson Ledges I run most of the track in 3rd gear between 5,000rpm and redline. With the engine screaming for mercy around 60% of the track it never really has a chance to run at cooler and slower RPM's. So, I can't ever shed heat on the track except on the back straight away were I usually hit 105mph and I very rarely shift into 5th.

- Tom

 

[zps2004]

The oil cooler uses the coolant to keep the oil cool so the coolant temperatures would be higher. I forgot that the B-spec cars have the AC delete so that would make a big difference.

I was also going to ask about the speeds you have been running, but you just answered that. If it was more autocross speeds I could see the temps being higher due to less flow through the radiator with the lower speeds. How does the shrouding look for the factory radiator? I have never looked.

 

[eyeballs]

I can't imagine the engine coming even close to overheating in an autocross scenario. Worst cast scenario (for the car) if its a long course you're still looking at less than a minute per run, and maybe with a small turnout and the car is co-driven the car would have 5 min between runs.

Just run less anti-freeze and add some water wetter for peace of mind if need be.

 

[zps2004]

Depends on how the course is going to be. Our last autocross we did just for fun. I made the course a loop and we did the event TT style where you went out and did 1 warm up lap and 5 flying laps, each time you ran, and you ran twice. We had one car blow a radiator hose and a few which were fading brakes. It was fun though doing laps and being out there for 3-4 minutes at a time being able to get heat in the tires. The noobs learned a lot. The course was averaging about 40mph so there wouldn't be much airflow for how long we were flooring the car.

 

[magnumP5]

I would attempt to better duct the radiator before actually replacing it. The 2 has no undertray so a lot of the air entering the front of the car can bypass the radiator. I doubt you'd see much improvement with an aftermarket radiator unless there was something wrong with the stock one. Delete AC and fully duct the radiator (inlet and outlet) for best results.

 

[eyeballs]

Depends on how the course is going to be. Our last autocross we did just for fun. I made the course a loop and we did the event TT style where you went out and did 1 warm up lap and 5 flying laps, each time you ran, and you ran twice. We had one car blow a radiator hose and a few which were fading brakes. It was fun though doing laps and being out there for 3-4 minutes at a time being able to get heat in the tires. The noobs learned a lot. The course was averaging about 40mph so there wouldn't be much airflow for how long we were flooring the car.

Well yeah, but that's an extremely loose interpretation of autocross. Another example would be the Baybottom Crawl...it's an autocross, but not really since triple digit speeds can be acheived and it you screw up you're going into the mangroves or salty atlantic. I meant in the typical autocross scenario it would be near impossible to overheat a mazda 2 in good working order.

 

[scoobs]

I would attempt to better duct the radiator before actually replacing it. The 2 has no undertray so a lot of the air entering the front of the car can bypass the radiator. I doubt you'd see much improvement with an aftermarket radiator unless there was something wrong with the stock one. Delete AC and fully duct the radiator (inlet and outlet) for best results.

This is why the Corksport skid plate comes handy, that plate does more than protecting the oil pan and transmission.

 

[zps2004]

From what I remember the skid plate is behind the radiator not in front. Not really helping at that point. This weekend I might get my car on the lift again and I will take a look at how well the shrouding is on the radiator. Probably is fine because There is no reason for a modern OEM to not have it sealed well.

 

[CorkSport]

I do not have the oil cooler kit installed in our car but I do have the kit sitting in my garage. Do you guys really want the part #s for the pieces? I have them all on the bags still.

-Derrick

 

[CorkSport]

I do run our skid tray though.

-Derrick

 

[Tom_Mazda2]

I do not have the oil cooler kit installed in our car but I do have the kit sitting in my garage. Do you guys really want the part #s for the pieces? I have them all on the bags still.

-Derrick

If you have the part numbers please post them here. I wonder if I could walk into a Mazda dealershit and order the Oil Cooler utilizing the part number or would they make someone register with Mazdaspeed in order to acquire it?

I also have the Corksport Skid Tray installed on my Mazda2. It does help with cooling and aerodynamics.

 

[Joker2]

Done a few track days and the OEM rad does just fine. The oil cooler sounds just fine as does the AC delete.

 

[CorkSport]

I will see what I can dig up for all of the part#s. I just need to remember to post them when I get home.

-Derrick