Knocking/Popping Noise from driver front tire area on new 2022 CX-30

I have a brand-new 2022 CX-30 2.5 Turbo Premium Plus I signed for 2 weeks ago. Prior to signing, I noticed a knocking/popping noise in the driver front tire area. The service manager at the dealership test-drove and confirmed the noise, and a service advisor said technicians believed the front strut thrust needed a replacement (odd to me since the car was new and only had 14 miles on it). My salesperson said they'd order the part and replace it under warranty. I took their word and signed my lease. Mind you -- this dealership is nearly 40 miles from where I live. I had to make the trip out and they replaced the part (and my salesperson needed to give me my navigation chip) -- but the sound still persisted, and I only noticed it once I got near home. I called my salesperson in disbelief and she just gave me a very dismal "You can bring it back in tomorrow first thing. I'll need the service manager to drive it to confirm the noise. That's all I can do."

I brought the car to a much closer Mazda dealership instead and got an appointment for yesterday morning. This place had told me a top bolt for the strut was found to be not fully bolted in and that they screwed it in and I should be ok -- they drove like 12 miles with my car to confirm no more noise. I got in my car and immediately upon reversing, noticed the popping noise again. I drove around a bit to be sure, and yep -- the sound was still in full swing. I went back into this dealership and the service advisor has the tech who worked on my car take a drive with me. The noise is audible and even he confirms it. (I have no idea WTF he was listening to during those 12 test miles. A joke.) I had to leave my car at the dealer overnight, and this morning, was told the senior techs and service manager replicated the noise but could not find anything to replace or fix other than re-torquing all the bolts for safety measure. I was told the car had no noise after that re-torquing -- and I even drove with one of the master techs -- but he kept talking the whole time about Mazda's great quality and all, almost to distract me from picking up the noise. Even told me at one point to "turn my music up an enjoy the ride. You have a brand-new car." After I drove off without the tech, the noise was still audible as if nothing had even changed.

This honestly is a really bad experience and horrible way to start off my lease. Any thoughts? I don't know what I should do at this point.

1. If I raise hell, it will have to be with my salesperson ~40 miles away at the purchasing dealership. I doubt they'll be able to find an exact match with this ongoing shitty car market.
2. I could also go to a mechanic I have gone to with my previous car, but it's stupid cuz that is out of my pocket and this car is a lease that Mazda should be handling 100%.
3. I could go to another Mazda dealership and have their service dept take a look, but that's miles out of my mileage. My purchasing dealership is stringent on not comping me any more miles (the girl gave me 210 extra miles to comp before signing).
 

sm1ke

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When does the popping occur? For example, is it only when turning, or does it happen in straight-line driving? Does it happen at all speeds? Only over bumps?

You could check the plastic fasteners on the windshield cowl, that was a source of noise for some CX-5 owners.
 
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2022 CX-5 Turbo
OP,
Keep records of all your visits to Mazda dealers.
Cite Lemon Law when it meets the requirements.
CA law below, but it should be similar for other states.

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When does the popping occur? For example, is it only when turning, or does it happen in straight-line driving? Does it happen at all speeds? Only over bumps?

You could check the plastic fasteners on the windshield cowl, that was a source of noise for some CX-5 owners.
It’s just when I brake and let go of the brake and steer left or right. Noticeable at speeds under 30mph. I’m not sure what the fasteners would do? The noise seems to be coming right from the front driver tire area.
 
OP,
Keep records of all your visits to Mazda dealers.
Cite Lemon Law when it meets the requirements.
CA law below, but it should be similar for other states.
View attachment 308442
Thanks, I do have everything saved. I hate how on my most recent paperwork, the advisor put that I was “satisfied and agreed there was no more noise.” I was more of like “Uh…I guess.” The foreman who rode with me kept talking and talking. I drove the car after and observed the sound still.

And when does this noise count as a “defect”? Cuz for all we know something is just wrong. And the car isn’t inoperable or anything so, IDK how hard Lemon Law would apply.
 
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What do you guys suggest I do? One of my friends said I should “break the car in” and drive it more to see if the sound goes away. This car is a lease so even if the sound exists now and later, I can get it looked at. I’m just annoyed cuz I will likely have to go back to my original dealer for this, and am killing my mileage.

I am unsure if I should text my salesperson. My parents keep blabbing about not calling and to have things in writing (text or email) as much as possible.
 

sm1ke

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It’s just when I brake and let go of the brake and steer left or right. Noticeable at speeds under 30mph. I’m not sure what the fasteners would do? The noise seems to be coming right from the front driver tire area.

Sound can travel, but if you're sure its coming from the front tire area, it's probably something to do with the brakes. This TSB is specifically for the CX-9, but you can have a look and see if the clicking noise described is similar to yours. It may give your dealer some ideas.
 

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Sound can travel, but if you're sure its coming from the front tire area, it's probably something to do with the brakes. This TSB is specifically for the CX-9, but you can have a look and see if the clicking noise described is similar to yours. It may give your dealer some ideas.
I am positive the sound is from the driver-front tire area. Googling around has brought up Reddit and Mazda forum threads about various CX models with a similar noise in the same described area. I sent my service advisor some YouTube vids of a CX-3 owner in Poland who had a similar issue and had his strut and bolts and crap changed to no help — eventually the dealer found his bearings were to blame.

The guy documents the noise in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8ny5SHM-UM (see 4:20, 4:48)

And he reviews what eliminated the noise in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_b_Szraw_kg&t=30s (see 1:30)

And do other model TSBs apply? Can you legit ask a dealer to check for something not related to your model? The foreman who rode with me yesterday said they checked for any TSBs and obviously my car has none given it is a 2022. I know 2020 Mazda 3s and CX-30s had brake caliper recalls due to factory error in assembly.
 
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sm1ke

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Providing the TSB I linked to the service advisor just gives them an example of a similar issue that occurred on a different model. Sometimes parts are similar enough to be applicable, but the main reason for this is so they can approach your issue with information that addresses a similar problem in a different model.
 
Providing the TSB I linked to the service advisor just gives them an example of a similar issue that occurred on a different model. Sometimes parts are similar enough to be applicable, but the main reason for this is so they can approach your issue with information that addresses a similar problem in a different model.
Right, I understand that. I just wonder how anal they will be given my sounds aren't "click" sounds and more of knocking sounds. It's overwhelming because I checked this site (2020 Mazda CX-30 TSBs | CarComplaints.com) and there are a ton of TSBs. I doubt any service dept spends time cross-referencing your issue with bulletins, esp those of past-year models.
 
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2022 CX-5 Turbo
Boafriend,
If I were you, I would keep pressing dealers to fix the problem. If they want to and are willing to, they can replace component one by one to narrow down the defected one. However, that takes times. There is a max amount of $$ they can charge Mazda for a specific problem. If they go beyond that, they don't get paid for the extra hours. Hence, many dealers are reluctant to fix *noises* issues. Best to go back to the dealer you bought it from. They might be more willing to. I know. It is 40 miles away.
 
Boafriend,
If I were you, I would keep pressing dealers to fix the problem. If they want to and are willing to, they can replace component one by one to narrow down the defected one. However, that takes times. There is a max amount of $$ they can charge Mazda for a specific problem. If they go beyond that, they don't get paid for the extra hours. Hence, many dealers are reluctant to fix *noises* issues. Best to go back to the dealer you bought it from. They might be more willing to. I know. It is 40 miles away.
...yeah, it's just frustrating. I emailed my advisor at the closer dealership and have not heard a response. I know by some stretch of logic, a dealership that isn't the one you got your car from generally isn't as inclined to help you -- although that is stupid because your car is still a Mazda product that is under warranty and it should be honored anywhere. You can return your lease at any dealership too (the car is literally owned by a bank and not the dealer). And in terms of actual part replacements, only the front strut has been replaced (the purchasing dealership did this); everything else the closer dealership has done has just been re-torquing bolts and a pin bracket. No actual part replacements yet.

I'm just pushing as much as I can with the closer dealership because going that 40-mile drive will eventually eat 80 miles or so from my mileage and it's just stupid. In every sense of the word.
 
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Mazda CX-9 Signature
I know by some stretch of logic, a dealership that isn't the one you got your car from generally isn't as inclined to help you -- although that is stupid because your car is still a Mazda product that is under warranty and it should be honored anywhere.
I don't think service would care where the sale was made. They get reimbursed (marginally lower than standard rates) by manufacturer either way. So if they are busy, they would prioritize non warranty work to get paid more. But this is just my 02 cents.
 
I don't think service would care where the sale was made. They get reimbursed (marginally lower than standard rates) by manufacturer either way. So if they are busy, they would prioritize non warranty work to get paid more. But this is just my 02 cents.
Those were my thoughts too but some people on forums and my brother also all suggested I had more leverage going to the purchasing dealership which I don’t think makes sense.
 
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Mazda CX-9 Signature
Those were my thoughts too but some people on forums and my brother also all suggested I had more leverage going to the purchasing dealership which I don’t think makes sense.
I would say not in this market as demands are way higher than supplies. People are lining up to buy so they have no incentives to treat you right as returning customer. Sorry I'm being so pessimistic. I would suggest reaching out to corporate to open a case.
 
I would say not in this market as demands are way higher than supplies. People are lining up to buy so they have no incentives to treat you right as returning customer. Sorry I'm being so pessimistic. I would suggest reaching out to corporate to open a case.
Is this (reaching out to corporate) if that dealership doesn’t respond to my email? Or if they try again and cannot alleviate the issue?

My brother says it isn’t worth it since this is a lease.
 
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Pueblo county CO
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CX-5 Sport 16.5 6M
Is this if that dealership doesn’t respond to my email? Or if they cannot help me?

My brother says it isn’t worth it since this is a lease.
That's true. It's also under warranty, so if it gets worse and ruins something they'll have to deal with that.
Maybe you'll just have to monitor it and see if it gets worse.
It's kind of difficult to say as we haven't heard the noise or ridden in thw car.
Have you gotten any other opinions? If they replaced the strut thrust bearing the had some of it disassembled but should have verified other suspension parts were properly torqued.
Have you made a recording?
 
That's true. It's also under warranty, so if it gets worse and ruins something they'll have to deal with that.
Maybe you'll just have to monitor it and see if it gets worse.
It's kind of difficult to say as we haven't heard the noise or ridden in thw car.
Have you gotten any other opinions? If they replaced the strut thrust bearing the had some of it disassembled but should have verified other suspension parts were properly torqued.
Have you made a recording?
This is one recording I think captures the sound best: IMG_9765.MOV

Off-topic, but I ranted about this issue with my therapist and was also encouraged to keep pursuing this matter, but if at one point it really isn't fixable, to reach out to my dealership of purchase to ask for a replacement vehicle. This is a brand-new car which shouldn't have had this issue to start with. Her suggestion was to act fast but to take the steps necessary (as I've been doing) to try resolving the sound.
 
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Mazda CX-9 Signature
I assume what sounds like heartbeat (to me) is the knocking noise you hear right? If so there definitely something wrong if it can be picked up so clearly and consistently. One quick question.. was that last one knock AFTER you stopped and shifted to park?

Also since you can replicate it at low speed, see if someone drive it while you listen to the noise outside and get some exercise :) that way you can narrow left/right or front/back
 
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I assume what sounds like heartbeat (to me) is the knocking noise you hear right? If so there definitely something wrong if it can be picked up so clearly and consistently. One quick question.. was that last one knock AFTER you stopped and shifted to park?
Yes, the constant *kuuhn, kuhn, kuhn* noise is the noise I hear from the front driver-wheel area. The one knock heard after shifting into park is probably the same knocking noise too. You'll intermittently hear the steering-wheel grip noises throughout the clip since the thing is leather-wrapped, but that is normal. Any other noise you hear is the knocking noise I have been complaining about. From braking to turning, it's very audible and this is the best video I have that very audibly captures the noise. No A/C on or music on (obviously) to make the sound very obvious.