How to: 3rd Gen KLZE swap
Firstly, this is the way I did my swap. It may not have been the best soloution, but it's what made sence to me.
I used both the V6, and the P5 computers at the same time. I did this because much of the P5's functionality is controlled through the computer, and the P5's wiring harness is a pain to take apart.
I had a 94 MX3 sitting in my back shop that I originally bought as a rally car project, but decided the car was a little too girly . anyway, I took the engine out of this car, and tore the wiring all out of it. (Now I know the engine removal was unnecessary)
Parts Needed.
Engine: curved neck KLZE, straight neck would probably hit the brake booster. 200hp, 165 ft/lbs tq stock
Transmission: Stock protege with KL bellhousing. I used a 94 MX3 Tranny, as the gear ratios are closer, and I didn't have to tear apart the tranny.
Clutch and flywheel: you want an MX3 flywheel (lightweight) and and MX6 clutch kit (this will bolt onto MX3 flywheel). I had trouble getting the MX6 throwout bearing to work, so I used an MX3 one.
Radiator: You'll need to either run a V6 rad like me, or modify the stock one to work. I used an MX3 Rad, to fit it, I had my airconditioning drained, then removed the system. I also had to cut away the side supports for the old rad. To fit the V6 rad, I cut enough away for it to fit in, then made some mounts at the bottom, and basically zip tied it into place.
Wiring Harness, computer: Complete uncut engine harness from a KL vehicle. Again I used my 94 MX3 parts. The computer will have to be chipped to get rid of the EGR codes, and set the VRIS points correctly. Look up the probinator chip on Probetalk.com.
Engine mounts: All of the stock engine mounts bolt up to the tranny and engine. On the engine however, on the passenger side, the studs in the KL engine are too long, you need to take the ones out of the FS block and put them in the same spot on the KL. I recommend getting some very stiff AWR mounts as the V6 is a much smoother engine, and there's no bad vibes.
Engine Removal (Obviously not a complete step by step)
Drain fluids, unhook all connectors (marking them, you'll need to know a couple later, and you might change your mind).
Unbolt exhaust at the bottom, unhook shifter components from the engine, pull half shafts out of the transmission (hard to do, but you don't have to take them right out of the car, just free them from the tranny)
With your hoist supporting the engine, unbolt mounts. Lift (have a friend to watch the engine from one side, you on the other) I did it myself, and got a little scratch to prove it.
discard engine
well, actually take the reverse sensor out of the transmission (it bolts into the new one, and is easier to connect to the P5 harness.
Prep new engine:
maintenance, put the flywheel/clutch on, mount the tranny, put the P5 slave cylinder on the new tranny, check to make sure the fork feels right (compare to the original) I had some trouble here, had to change throwout bearings.
Install mounts one by one, making sure that since these mounts bolt up to different spots than the original that the bolt holes on your new transmission are free of dirt. (this cost me half a day's work on a nice day when I cracked the bellhousing attaching one of the mounts, if this happens, take it to a welder, or if you're a better welder than me, fix it).
Also, replace P5 jackshaft with V6 jack shaft on the passenger side. Have it sitting there in the engine bay attached to the P5 half shaft.
Install wiring harness in engine bay (fit the new harness through the same hole as the P5 one goes though, just cut away the rubber grommet). Seal up the hole with something later.
Install the engine just like the old one came out. Making sure that as you lower the engine in, you orient the half shafts correctly, or they're a b**** later.
bolt it all up, if you're like me you've mangled a couple dealer specific bolts (specifically the shifter linkage), replace as necessary.
Connect all your engine sensors. Connect speed and reverse to P5 original wiring. Also connect the starter and oil sensor to the factory harness. As for the alternator, I used the V6 one which is internally regulated, also it connects to the factory wiring, but don't connect the small connector (they are the same). Run a fused (30A) wire from the battery to the thicker of the two wires coming from the small connector.
To wire the computer, it needs a couple of things, first, it needs constant, on, cranking, and run signals (If I remember correctly) and a ground.
As for the disty, if it is a newer KLZE, it will have the north american disty, which plugs right in to your harness. Older ones will have to look up the H.E.I. conversion, and run an external coil (probetalk), or swap over to an A-spec disty. There is a thick blue wire (~12 awg) that comes in from the harness at the computer, this goes to the disty, and needs to be supplied with a 30A fused ON power source. I tapped into the back of the fuse/joint box near the dead pedal on the driver's floor (the thick blue wire on the back of that is perfect)
You'll then need to hook up your throttle cable (it'll go in, just mount it on an angle so you get full movement with the pedal (verify this with a friend))
You then need to hook up the power steering, for this, the high pressure line bolts right to the V6 pump (use new crush washers) with a little mauvering. The return however is a pain. The easiest way is to take the return pipe off of the pump (careful not to damage it, it's ~$40 from Mazda). Then cut it off right at the elbow where it's a little thinner. Then take a dremel, and clean up the cut, and blow out any loose metal. Make sure nothing's going to get into the system here. Then what you want to do is take the stock return pipe (it's short) and get about 4' (might have been only 3' now that I think about it) of the same size hose. Then you want to lube it up, and force it over that suction pipe you cut up earlier. Throw a pipe clamp on there, and bolt it to the pump (I warn you this is a royal pain, very hard to reach area, lots of crap in the way)
Then hook up your fuel lines. I cut the plastic lines right where the V6's metal lines come off the back of the engine. Then I cut the barbs off of the V6's lines, and got a plastic to metal adaptor for the high pressure lines, and put some fuel hose and hose clamps over the return. Works, no leaks.
Hook up an intake, if you're using the MX3 computer, use a JE50 VAF (MX3 stock; these are sought after anyway, as they work with the Japanese computer too)
rig up an exhaust adaptor to connect to the stock exhaust (make sure you've grabbed some down pipes from a junked V6 with the O2 sensors intact (they are $$$$$$$))
You're going to have to take out the fuel pump relay, and run a jumper across the leads so the fuel pump runs constant when the car is in the on position.
Make sure everything is connected (including coolant lines) fill your fluids, start it up.
Well, that's about it, That much wiring will get it going, I'll let you know more details about the wiring when I get it to a point where I'm completely satisfied electrically.
It's damn near 3 am so I'm sure I forgot a few things here and there, but If you have any questions let me know. This is obviously not a swap to be attempted by just anyone, but if you feel comfortable working on cars, there is no magic tricks, or anything overly complicated about it. Total cost so far since I already had the MX3, is about $1500 cdn.
Edit: I should add, to make it legal, you need to retrofit an EGR valve. (I'm unsure, although I read the laws, if Swapping OBD-II to OBD-I is even legal)
Rock on
DuRWooD
"sounds like it bolts right in" (famous last words)
