Just Installed Microtech LT10S - On stock FS-DE

[LordWorm]

what is happening on the pump1 setting is you need to make it trigger sooner... reduce the pump1Trig value down.

The IAC is best left to the stock ECU. It doesn't need/care about the TPS, just needs to see the CAM and crank sensor the way we wire it etc and then it will control it fine/perfectly.

sweet yeh,. i'll go have a play with pump1Trig later - i'm essentially running andrew's settings, but his car burns STACKS more fuel than mine (obviously) therefore settings like this could be thrown way out of whack.

Just wondering - a little birdy told me you were fiddling with a way to use resistors so the stock ECU could share the temp sensor with the microtech (so you dont lose the air temp gauge)
have you succeeded with this? if so would you mind sharing with me how you got it to work

cheers

edit: adjusted pump1 trig down to 14 (down from 18)....seems to be a bit better.... still a few little lurches occasionally.. Dropping it to 13 makes it lurchy again....i'm thinking the next thing to mess with is pump1 amt...

now i just have to remember if i have it set to trigger on TPS or MAP...*scratches head*.... i know andrew and i were playing with it in both modes.....guess it doesn't matter....as long as everything works out right

 

[LordWorm]

stuff it... i'll find myself a compatable second water temp sensor i think

thanks for that

 

[Crazee D]

Love the coil packs!
How was the cost for those bad boys?
Are you using any other spark boost or multiple discharge thingy too?
I'm sure our stock coils are not the greatest, but I never considered it a weak link. Any reason that motivated this mod?
Please don't tell me thats a stock airbox!?!?!

 

[TurfBurn]

Stock coils are fine for all applications up to about 25 psi of boost in most cases. There are a lot of options you can go with after that though including the Bosch coils and even coils off of other Mazda's that are good. So lots of options.

 

[02p5]

good info guys, thank you!

I better go into the shop to get my IAC connected.

 

[LordWorm]

Love the coil packs!
How was the cost for those bad boys?
Are you using any other spark boost or multiple discharge thingy too?
I'm sure our stock coils are not the greatest, but I never considered it a weak link. Any reason that motivated this mod?
Please don't tell me thats a stock airbox!?!?!

Cost wasn't too bad...Can't remember off the top of my head..Sparkboost is provided by the X4 box I believe, which is a coil driver that comes as an option from microtech....basically gives me direct ignition instead of batch fire.

Reasons for doing the mod...well i had a few. One of my stock mazda coil packs was shagged to hell....a huge blister had formed ontop of it, and it rattled when i shook it...it really was on the way out...and i doubt it would have been doing a very good job in the end.
Other reasons....even if you have after market leads, go check the resistance on them. the resistance isnt even, so you end up with different spark strengths on each lead...by going this way, i am able to deliver an even, and very powerful spark to the chamber.
I can also increase the gap on my spark plugs, for a larger spark.

Theres also the hotness factor...they look great....awesome engine dressup

At high RPM they are probably giving me a slight power kick....but the advantage of having them wont become apparent until I rebuild the motor, shorten the stroke and go after 9k rpm....it does somewhat future proof my ignition system.

And yes, that is the stock airbox....mazda genuine air filter too!....i told you it was a stock engine

 

[02p5]

Microtech question here, a bit off topic.

If I purchase a wideband unit such as the AEM uego, would the Microtech be able to read off the signals off of that wideband 02 sensor and adjust due to temp or alltitude?

 

[TurfBurn]

The future LT16 should be able to do similar things to that, however the LT10's do not. They can read the wideband for logging purposes but for none other.

There is a correction map for air temps which works well (but even having it is minor as the air temp corrections are usually less than 5% in all but extreme cases). Altitude is also somewhat useless as very few people see wide variation, and the variations are typically minimal. One thing people forget once they have a standalone is how loose a stock ECU is... a stock ECU cruising on the highway in closed loop often has variation of AFR's as wide as from 13.5 to 15.7 while cruising. Compare that against a "poor" tune on the Microtech you'll see a variation when cruising on the highway of about .7 AFR. A good tune you can tighten down to AFR variation of less than .3 AFR for most cases. In other words far superior accuracy in open loop to that of the stock closed loop.

 

[02p5]

The future LT16 should be able to do similar things to that, however the LT10's do not. They can read the wideband for logging purposes but for none other.

There is a correction map for air temps which works well (but even having it is minor as the air temp corrections are usually less than 5% in all but extreme cases). Altitude is also somewhat useless as very few people see wide variation, and the variations are typically minimal. One thing people forget once they have a standalone is how loose a stock ECU is... a stock ECU cruising on the highway in closed loop often has variation of AFR's as wide as from 13.5 to 15.7 while cruising. Compare that against a "poor" tune on the Microtech you'll see a variation when cruising on the highway of about .7 AFR. A good tune you can tighten down to AFR variation of less than .3 AFR for most cases. In other words far superior accuracy in open loop to that of the stock closed loop.

Great Info, thanks
Any tips or instructions on wiring so the stock ECU is controlling the IAC. Is the wiring pretty basic? anything special I need to do?

thanks again!

 

[LordWorm]

Just ironed out another issue.....

Microtech didn't/don't provide indepth instructions for installing the wideband module...whilst it is largely plug and play, wiring the power and earth for this module isn't given much attention, so we just initially wired it straight into the microtech harness.

Problem was, that unlike the ecu itself, which switches itself on at ignition, the wideband module is "always on" if it has power....so it drained my battery (1amp current draw over 18 odd hours of not driving...)

Problem has been resolved by wiring the power for the module into the fuel pump relay - when the fuel pump is switched on, the wideband module is switched on. This has removed the excess current draw and everything is dandy again.

Just thought i'd put it out there for anyone thinking of going with the wideband module to sort this out at time of install - i was lucky as I had a spare battery on loan from a friend, otherwise I would have been stuck until the battery was charged again......

 

[02p5]

Wired up the ECU to control the IAC now and seems to be working good so far. I guess I'll find out how good it will be when I try a cold start up tommorow morning.

 

[02p5]

Wired up the ECU to control the IAC now and seems to be working good so far. I guess I'll find out how good it will be when I try a cold start up tommorow morning.

Idling is great when driving even with lots of accessories on. The IAC would raise the idle accordingly and save it.

However still have the cold start up problem, any ideas on what to do?

 

[TurfBurn]

after start enrichment should be between 11 and 13%. Then you just adjust the crank map to get it to start smoothly. If it catches right away.. stumbles for a bit, slows down and dies.. it's too rich. If it cranks for a good bit before catching... it's too lean. If it catches reasonably fast and dies out, it is most likely still too lean, but sometimes is too rich. But either way, the only value you need to be touching is the crank value as long as once it does start/run the AFR's are more or less okay. If those AFR's are not okay after it gets started, then you need to tweak the water map a bit.

Hope that helps.

 

[LordWorm]

I don't think andy has my after start enrichment going at all... enrichment is being handled by water temp.....at low temps its adding more fuel and timing

works ok, doesnt stall or die, but when its cold, releasing the throttle will often cause it to die

 

[Little Beavis]

I don't think andy has my after start enrichment going at all... enrichment is being handled by water temp.....at low temps its adding more fuel and timing

works ok, doesnt stall or die, but when its cold, releasing the throttle will often cause it to die

Sounds like there is some room for improvement. I've never had mine die after it started. . .so however Steve/Turfburn/NSN set it up. . .it works like a champ. Just as the weather gets colder I need to tune it for cold startup, but right now, it has gotten below freezing and still fired up, so I can't complain.

The Microtech is truly awesome, my car is so much better than it ever was with just that investment!

 

[LordWorm]

Sounds like there is some room for improvement. I've never had mine die after it started. . .so however Steve/Turfburn/NSN set it up. . .it works like a champ. Just as the weather gets colder I need to tune it for cold startup, but right now, it has gotten below freezing and still fired up, so I can't complain.

The Microtech is truly awesome, my car is so much better than it ever was with just that investment!

Definantly room for improvement! Remember, my car has had a total of 2 hours tuning time, 100% done on the road..i.e. no dyno.

First hour was getting a "rough" tune, basically peak power and not leaning out

second hour was a "get you by" tune cos I had to take the car on a 600km round trip and needed something in the way of fuel economy.

The nice stuff isn't done yet. VICS still isn't controlled by the ECU (though I know exactly how to do this), I don't have one of the inputs signaling the microtech to idle up when the A/C compressor kicks in (one of the reasons for the stall), I have some cold start issues (using Twilightprotege's cold start maps, a car which by virtue of the fact that its way more modified than mine uses an absolute buttload more fuel!), and lastly my idle AFR is a shade rich...

so still lots and lots to do =)

Once Andrew moves into his new house, he'll hopefully be available for some more extensive tuning, then off to the dyno for a couple of hours to get every last scrap of power out of it...

I'll agree with you that the microtech is an awesome awesome investment. It is the only major modification on my car (i have AWR mounts, a drilled out front grill and a short shifter) and the power increase is nothing short of phenomenal. And its not just a placebo effect, Everyone who has hopped in the passanger seat has asked what I've done to the car to make it so much more responsive than before

 

[Brian MP5T]

Subs

 

[khaosman]

I'm installing mine tonight, be prepared for questions

 

[LordWorm]

Good luck!

My first bit of advice would be, work out where you are going to run the auxillaries first - and avoid having to move the around (i've had my loom unwrapped and rewrapped about 8 times since doing the initial install...haha)

 

[LordWorm]

Numbers!!!!!!!!!

some numbers can be found here:
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2850064#post2850064