actually I registered www.1337msp.com and it will be an archive for swapping in bp05/gtr/e153 etc but there I wont be doing anything with it until I have some time to make everything nice.
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Jeff's MSP GTR Build
- Thread starter jeffmsp
- Start date
actually I registered www.1337msp.com and it will be an archive for swapping in bp05/gtr/e153 etc but there I wont be doing anything with it until I have some time to make everything nice.
well upon further review I went to pull out the trans mission and when I removed the passenger side axle which appeared to be ok at the cv by the intermediate shaft and found that it was also broken, so some new axles and the car was good to go.
still loafting on the turbo setup it will be done soon because i cannot drive a car this slow for much longer. it runs real nice. just slow. very very slow.
still loafting on the turbo setup it will be done soon because i cannot drive a car this slow for much longer. it runs real nice. just slow. very very slow.
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for anyone else who tries this swap and wants to run the stock gauges,if you run a wire from the negative terminal of your ignition coil into the cabin and tap into the violet/white wire connected to the stock FSDE ECU harness. This will run the stock tach.
HOWEVER
the results are terrible. the gauge reads about double of the current RPM. and seems to bounce for a second whenever something electrical (say pushing on the brakes or turning a signal light on) is used.
I think I am going to have to look into one of those converter boxes (if they even make something for this, usually its guys trying to get a regular tach to read from only 1 of the FSDE coils, not sure where to find a converter that takes the usual single coil signal and converts it to the FS style signal where it reads only 1 coil in the 2 coil system)
gotta love the fun stuff. Really would rather just have the stock tach working than aftermarket. A aftermarket tach is around $50 here, something tells me Im gona end up spending $100 on a converter if they exist to get the stock gauge working.
so now I am trying to see if I can just get the MS to output a proper tach signal rather than use the coil iteself. The bummer is that I only have 1 output and I have wired it for running the fan relay rather than use a seperate setup where the fan is controlled by a different sensor like stock. So now I guess I will rewire everything and use the MS to output to the stock tach and make a stand alone system for activating the fan.
seems I am pro at doing stuff right the second time around.
stupidity at its finest.
HOWEVER
the results are terrible. the gauge reads about double of the current RPM. and seems to bounce for a second whenever something electrical (say pushing on the brakes or turning a signal light on) is used.
I think I am going to have to look into one of those converter boxes (if they even make something for this, usually its guys trying to get a regular tach to read from only 1 of the FSDE coils, not sure where to find a converter that takes the usual single coil signal and converts it to the FS style signal where it reads only 1 coil in the 2 coil system)
gotta love the fun stuff. Really would rather just have the stock tach working than aftermarket. A aftermarket tach is around $50 here, something tells me Im gona end up spending $100 on a converter if they exist to get the stock gauge working.
so now I am trying to see if I can just get the MS to output a proper tach signal rather than use the coil iteself. The bummer is that I only have 1 output and I have wired it for running the fan relay rather than use a seperate setup where the fan is controlled by a different sensor like stock. So now I guess I will rewire everything and use the MS to output to the stock tach and make a stand alone system for activating the fan.
seems I am pro at doing stuff right the second time around.
stupidity at its finest.
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Velocifero
Wham Bam thank you Ma'am
- :
- VRM MS6, Sunlight Silver MSP
I wouldn't say it's stupidity, its the growth of knowledge as to how to NOT **** s*** up the next time.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PbDwBCG-Dg0
Everything seems to be running pretty good now. I think this is the most noise to ever come out of a MSP racing beat muffler.. 7800RPM feels great, puts you hard in the seat when you go into 3rd and you are that extra few hundred RPM ahead of where you would normally be.
Everything seems to be running pretty good now. I think this is the most noise to ever come out of a MSP racing beat muffler.. 7800RPM feels great, puts you hard in the seat when you go into 3rd and you are that extra few hundred RPM ahead of where you would normally be.
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Pretty awesome. Nice work man. I'm probably following the same route as you did with your fsde. Cranking the boost with the help of meth but, I'm gonna call upon the help of a j&s and a fic to pull timing in hopes to prevent catastrophe. Before you attempted this I kept saying how I wish the msp had a bp
well i have enough confidence in the car now that I sold my DD (chevy malibu) and I am back to using the msp as my daily. Finished an oil change the other day and the oil looked cleaner than my fsde oil after 3000KMs. Its amazing how the msp running so rich ruins its oil.
anyways, the car is driving good. I am contemplating adding a 5th engine mount as even with the rest of the mounts solid I am still feeling a bit of movement which I am not too happy about.
the 1st gen drivetrain does not use the 3rd gen rear engine mount, instead it has 2 mounts on the crossmember on the front and rear of the transmission. Since I took out the support bracket for the stock intake manifold there is a bit of room (not much with the gtr oil cooler but a bit) to make a bracket that will connect the block via the mounting location for the stock IM bracket and connect to my Medieval solid rear mount from my old fsde msp setup.
with 5 solid mounts I dont think the drivetrain will be bumping around period. which is good because the more time I spend looking at the miniscule gap between the drivers side axle and the frame rail, the more I am thinking the drivetrain jerked extremely hard while cruising in 5th and the moving axle hit the frame rail which caused both axles CVs to implode. this would explain all of the problems I had with the axles breaking. whether that was the cause or not I decided to pull all of the mounts, reweld them, redo the solid filling on 2 of em and raised the engine up another 1/4 inch with some washers just to be safe. As a side effect the shifter linkage seems to line up a bit better now and shifting seems more direct.
The crossmember design is a bit flawed also as the 1st gen uses 2 bolts on the front, 2 bolts on the rear, whereas the 3rd gen just has 1 rear bolt holding it in. I think my makeshift crossmember must have a bit of flex / poor design as I basically cut the 1st gen crossmember after the rear mount and made the 2 sides come into 1 point to be bolted in. I think for everything to be "perfect" I should just remake the crossmember from scratch.
so even though the 4 mounts I have now seem to be sufficient and reliable for DD now that I worked on the mounts a bit more, this 5th mount idea seems better and better especially since boost is getting put into the equation.
I dunno when my friends drive the car they say its already too solid for them to drive comfortably but I am used to a ruff clutch so for me it could be a bit stiffer. I can still feel a bit too much movement starting off hard in 1st and I just want to cut down that movement with the 5th engine mount. this should give me a uber start with the MS launch control with good tires and eliminate wheel hop.
Im back on the stock intake manifold until I get my ITBS back from silex. he has had them for a long time now reworking my design so I am getting impatient..
the cold air intake is now the lowest part of the car with the filter on the drivers side of the radiator about 2.5 inches out of the engine bay below the bumper line. Its about 3/4 inch lower than my oil pan (remember I dropped the engine as much as I could and brought it towards the firewall). IAT temps are very low in this setup and the intake is mounted to the engine with a bracket on the clutch slave so I dont have to worry about drivetrain movement destroying my intake as the intake moves with the drivetrain.
I also welded in a new 2.5 inch flex pipe as the old one was leaking. maybe its just phsycological effect from having less noise but I swear the car feels like it lost a bit of power in the 6K+ range. you would think with such a big exhaust already on the car that it wouldnt need any less backpressure to make power up top but I guess I learn something every day. 7800rpms still sounds like sex.
anyways, the car is driving good. I am contemplating adding a 5th engine mount as even with the rest of the mounts solid I am still feeling a bit of movement which I am not too happy about.
the 1st gen drivetrain does not use the 3rd gen rear engine mount, instead it has 2 mounts on the crossmember on the front and rear of the transmission. Since I took out the support bracket for the stock intake manifold there is a bit of room (not much with the gtr oil cooler but a bit) to make a bracket that will connect the block via the mounting location for the stock IM bracket and connect to my Medieval solid rear mount from my old fsde msp setup.
with 5 solid mounts I dont think the drivetrain will be bumping around period. which is good because the more time I spend looking at the miniscule gap between the drivers side axle and the frame rail, the more I am thinking the drivetrain jerked extremely hard while cruising in 5th and the moving axle hit the frame rail which caused both axles CVs to implode. this would explain all of the problems I had with the axles breaking. whether that was the cause or not I decided to pull all of the mounts, reweld them, redo the solid filling on 2 of em and raised the engine up another 1/4 inch with some washers just to be safe. As a side effect the shifter linkage seems to line up a bit better now and shifting seems more direct.
The crossmember design is a bit flawed also as the 1st gen uses 2 bolts on the front, 2 bolts on the rear, whereas the 3rd gen just has 1 rear bolt holding it in. I think my makeshift crossmember must have a bit of flex / poor design as I basically cut the 1st gen crossmember after the rear mount and made the 2 sides come into 1 point to be bolted in. I think for everything to be "perfect" I should just remake the crossmember from scratch.
so even though the 4 mounts I have now seem to be sufficient and reliable for DD now that I worked on the mounts a bit more, this 5th mount idea seems better and better especially since boost is getting put into the equation.
I dunno when my friends drive the car they say its already too solid for them to drive comfortably but I am used to a ruff clutch so for me it could be a bit stiffer. I can still feel a bit too much movement starting off hard in 1st and I just want to cut down that movement with the 5th engine mount. this should give me a uber start with the MS launch control with good tires and eliminate wheel hop.
Im back on the stock intake manifold until I get my ITBS back from silex. he has had them for a long time now reworking my design so I am getting impatient..
the cold air intake is now the lowest part of the car with the filter on the drivers side of the radiator about 2.5 inches out of the engine bay below the bumper line. Its about 3/4 inch lower than my oil pan (remember I dropped the engine as much as I could and brought it towards the firewall). IAT temps are very low in this setup and the intake is mounted to the engine with a bracket on the clutch slave so I dont have to worry about drivetrain movement destroying my intake as the intake moves with the drivetrain.
I also welded in a new 2.5 inch flex pipe as the old one was leaking. maybe its just phsycological effect from having less noise but I swear the car feels like it lost a bit of power in the 6K+ range. you would think with such a big exhaust already on the car that it wouldnt need any less backpressure to make power up top but I guess I learn something every day. 7800rpms still sounds like sex.
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well I got my ITBS back from Silex. Unfortuneately his own project car broke down and he had to get another car on the road so he didnt have a chance to do any work on them so I started version 0.2 myself. Decided to try a traditional side entrance plenum to compare it to the center entrance. decided to build it out of fairly thin steel. the design is pretty typical so I am hoping for good results. it is still quite heavy though. wish I had an aluminum welder / skills.
I also finished the engine stand for running the GTR. I also made 2 additional support arms not pictured here. I am starting to build my own wiring harness from scratch as I would like to go for a really minimized and clean engine bay when the GTR goes in so I am having lots of fun cutting up lengths of wires and spending my beer money on proper connectors.
I also finished the engine stand for running the GTR. I also made 2 additional support arms not pictured here. I am starting to build my own wiring harness from scratch as I would like to go for a really minimized and clean engine bay when the GTR goes in so I am having lots of fun cutting up lengths of wires and spending my beer money on proper connectors.
- :
- 03.5 YLW MSP
bumpage
update:
well about 2 weeks or so ago stupidity set in and I jacked up the car and went under to put in new exhaust hangers and put flanges on the exhaust system so I can take it out in pieces etc. cut off the old hangers, welded in the new ones welded up the exhaust. started up the car and revved it up a bunch of times to check for leaks and let her run while I went under the car to inspect for leaks. after 5 minutes or so I turned off the engine and then pulled out my 3 month old canadian tire mastercraft grinder. started grinding at excess welds around the hangars just aft of the firewall area under the car when the next thing I knew my hands were getting burned hard, like someone pouring hot wax on them. somehow my grinder spontaneously combusted in my hands either from metal shards falling in or something else I dunno. because I had my full welding mask to block me from sparks from the grinder I had no idea the stupid thing was on fire in my hands while it was running. my welding gloves melted and burned my hands pretty Fing good. since I was on my back and my gloves caught on fire from previous oil/grease residue from working on the car with welding gloves instead of a different set i was sort of screwed as they wouldnt go out trying to smack em on the ground but I managed to worm out from under the car. unfortunately the exhaust was boiling hot from running the car and I hit my arm in 3 different spots on the exhaust hard on the way out before I could pull off my gloves. my arm looked like ghostbusters with bubbling skin everywhere. then I had to pull out the grinder which was melted at this point but still on fire. luckily I had a hose handy to out it.
in short my hands still hurt but at least my arm is way better after my GF put like 10 bottles of that aloe burn stuff a day on it so I went back out and finished the grinding with a new grinder the other day and now all is good with the exhaust. fun learning experience.
nothing sucks worse than burning the palm of your hand though, every shift is a b**** lol and my browsing history has never been cleaner.
but im pretty much back to normal now. 2 weeks and a whole s*** load of shopper drug mart points card usage later and its almost like new. note to self, stop sucking at welding/grinding (chair)(headshake(freak)(loser)
so I started working on finishing the new plenum I will post some pics up when it "looksa niiiice". yes I took the time to grind all the welds clean so you cant even see where the pieces join etc.
on the plus side the exhaust is now flanged to accept a flanged 3" downpipe like a breeze. 1 step closer to more fun.
well about 2 weeks or so ago stupidity set in and I jacked up the car and went under to put in new exhaust hangers and put flanges on the exhaust system so I can take it out in pieces etc. cut off the old hangers, welded in the new ones welded up the exhaust. started up the car and revved it up a bunch of times to check for leaks and let her run while I went under the car to inspect for leaks. after 5 minutes or so I turned off the engine and then pulled out my 3 month old canadian tire mastercraft grinder. started grinding at excess welds around the hangars just aft of the firewall area under the car when the next thing I knew my hands were getting burned hard, like someone pouring hot wax on them. somehow my grinder spontaneously combusted in my hands either from metal shards falling in or something else I dunno. because I had my full welding mask to block me from sparks from the grinder I had no idea the stupid thing was on fire in my hands while it was running. my welding gloves melted and burned my hands pretty Fing good. since I was on my back and my gloves caught on fire from previous oil/grease residue from working on the car with welding gloves instead of a different set i was sort of screwed as they wouldnt go out trying to smack em on the ground but I managed to worm out from under the car. unfortunately the exhaust was boiling hot from running the car and I hit my arm in 3 different spots on the exhaust hard on the way out before I could pull off my gloves. my arm looked like ghostbusters with bubbling skin everywhere. then I had to pull out the grinder which was melted at this point but still on fire. luckily I had a hose handy to out it.
in short my hands still hurt but at least my arm is way better after my GF put like 10 bottles of that aloe burn stuff a day on it so I went back out and finished the grinding with a new grinder the other day and now all is good with the exhaust. fun learning experience.
nothing sucks worse than burning the palm of your hand though, every shift is a b**** lol and my browsing history has never been cleaner.
but im pretty much back to normal now. 2 weeks and a whole s*** load of shopper drug mart points card usage later and its almost like new. note to self, stop sucking at welding/grinding (chair)(headshake(freak)(loser)
so I started working on finishing the new plenum I will post some pics up when it "looksa niiiice". yes I took the time to grind all the welds clean so you cant even see where the pieces join etc.
on the plus side the exhaust is now flanged to accept a flanged 3" downpipe like a breeze. 1 step closer to more fun.
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- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege ES
Looks like my arm, I work an Valvoline Intant Oil change and sometime bump my arm against the hot exhaust ... on an odd note I now know what burning flesh smells like lol
shane02pro5
25ish_psi
- :
- New Caney TX
So basically the MSP will always have a story...telling your great grandkids one day "You know how I got these horific scars? ...No it wasn't from the nearly missed frag grenade explosion back when I was in the military or a kitchen fire where I saved the lives of three illegal aliens and a dog!" 
getting ready to hit the back roads. stupid big and ugly but so easy to read and I made a simple connector plug and mounted using industrial velcro. so when I want to go have fun I just plug it in and stick it in place. its so easy to read while driving hard I can keep my eyes on the next turn going WOT and not be looking down as much as stock.
Also broke tie rod ends (again, stripped the threads 5th tie rod end in 220,000KMs on drivers side) too much fun..again.
so I bought 2 new tie rod ends
also bought 2 new front sway bar stabilizer links. mine have never been replaced so I am hoping it will get rid of the "loose" feeling in the front.
have any of you had to change the front sway bar bushings? are they planned maintenance by 220,000km? ive had new bushings sitting here for 6 months but it looks like a real b****. i should have done em while the engine was out. im assuming they will start making some horrible noise when they are ready to be changed out?
car is almost ready to hit the track!
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