iracemine's purpose built N/A ST2 thread

With the 626 mani the vacuum has even more of that crazy crazy spikes. I just do not think the normal mani will be big enough to handle these cams and largely ported head. I will have to go to ITB's. Wich means I will only do enough racing on the motor this year to keep my license. And then find some one who will make ITB's for the fs motor.

I remember Noah of AAC was trying to get a set of ITBs made by Jenvey.
 
Shouldn't be too difficult: cut an aluminum flange to the specs of the stock IM-to-head flange, find two DCOE or IDA-style aluminum flanges, determine desired length of runners and weld aluminum tube between them, and ta-da, ITB intake manifold. DCOE and IDA-style throttle bodies can be obtained from Jenvey, Borla, EFI Hardware, etc.
 
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I was gonna hit up AAC and see where they left off. I'm sure I got a ton of hours of inter web searches in front of me, But again I would love to slap on a miata piece and call it a day.
 
Borla Inducation makes 1.8L Miata-specific kits with the ITBs, linkages, TPS, and manifold but they're ~$1700. Even then you'd have to make an adaptor to go from the FSDE head to the Miata flange on the intake manifold for the ITBs. You'd be better off just getting the ITBs and doing a custom intake manifold. EFI Hardware sells ITB kits with everything you need except the manifold.
 
I think the past of least resistance is to modify a mx5 one with a different mount. I would like to just get one where most of the stuff would bolt up. I will look into adaptronic and see what they need and if I could get rid of some more stock ecu stuff while I am at it. Since the adaptronic will be controlling the idle now?
 
iracemine, I'm getting an adapter plate made for black top throttles. I can ask about getting two made?

4 * 48mm OD throttles. They have Idle control valve and have a stable map port ;)

Sorry about not posting maths :(
 
How did the .050 Pistons work out??? I was under the impression we couldn't go out that far for fear of overheating and or destroying the engine
OK on with the facts.

Exterior:

Fiber images C/F hood
wrong color blue rear hatch
rear lower bumper cut out
msp front bumper w/ grill support cut and smoothed out
fender turn signal delete
covered head lights per competition rules
1/4th protege dx unibody (front drivers side)
front and rear wiper delete
flying logo mod
strap style front tow ring
black sun block vinyl on windshield

Interior:

all but top part of dash interior delete
dom fully tigged in custom 4-point roll bar with two sided tiged in bases per SCCA rules
All random brackets removed
all but driver doors gutted including crash bars, window motors, and locks
rear wiper motor delete
front pass and drivers window delete
front wiper motor and assembly delete
spa oil pressure and water temp split gauge with recall, warning light and remote output for larger warning lights
Wideband by innovative gauge
J&S knock gauge
sparco pro2000 seat
g-force 6 point harness
heater core removal per competition rules
steering lock removal per competition rules
window net per competition rules
gopro hero3

Engine:

Full a/c removal
power steering rack removal and manual rack installed
power steering system delete
4-2-1 header a 2 piece no name brand (needed slight work to make fit)
Megacycle stage 3 cams
VCTS removal
intake mani ports smoothed
battery relocation to old evap location
oddesy pc680 battery
cruse delete
sri
fidenza flywheel
quaife
b&m shifter
mp3 ecu (flashed) used for the IAC
Immediate exhaust dump with the rest removed
pass and driver mount epoxy filled, front and rear awr mounts
10.4 compression
powder coated skirts on pistons
Full rotating assembly balanced
.020" over bore
Head ported and polished
block blueprinted
crank micro polished
Microtech LT-10 W/ relay to operate VISS per RPM trigger
EGR delete
Adjustable K gear on intake side
Adjustable Focus gear on exhaust side

Suspension:

K-sport pro coilovers with 800 front springs, 600 rear and custom welded rear sway bar mounts.
msp front sway bar
awr rear 21mm sway bar
k-sport rear adjsutable end links
brembo front plain rotors
stock rear brakes w/autozone pads
Stock front brakes w/front pads differ depending on the track
rota slipstreams 15X7
bfgoodrich g-force r compound 225's
fog light holes turned into brake cooling inlets
vette wheel studs in the front
Power Master Cylinder and stock proportional valve removed
1" mechanical tandem reservoir with only 2 outlets Master Cylinder installed
Wilwood 7.1 ratio single brake pedal installed
remote clutch reservoir installed
Wilwood adjustable proportional valve installed in cockpit
SS brake lines in all 4 corners


16K odo
2170lbs empty and getting lower every mod I make.
always for sale
 
iracemine, I'm getting an adapter plate made for black top throttles. I can ask about getting two made?

4 * 48mm OD throttles. They have Idle control valve and have a stable map port ;)

Sorry about not posting maths :(

Yeah sure let me know. I need to make a couple payments on the CC and then I will try and get ITBs running before it gets too cold up here. I'll look up black top, I like the idle control idea.

How did the .050 Pistons work out??? I was under the impression we couldn't go out that far for fear of overheating and or destroying the engine

.050mm or aka .020inch for you domestic loving types. It's the 83.5mm piston, weisco also makes a 83.00, 83.25, and a 84mm piston. Its also a iron block, so don't lean it out and you will be fine..... that is unless your making like 800hp then I have no idea.
 
OH OK I see the confusion now. Yes I am aware of the other piston sets I was just thinking I had stumbled across a new thing. Thanks though
 
iracemine, I'm getting an adapter plate made for black top throttles. I can ask about getting two made?

4 * 48mm OD throttles. They have Idle control valve and have a stable map port ;)

Sorry about not posting maths :(


Interesting I didn't see this last night because I was searching around and questioning on it. So you have checked it all out to see that multiple smaller TBs will infact run without dropping the velocity of intake harming the power creation?
 
Our cams (stage 3) create such velocity with the stock mani that it is making cavitation that it is rendering the MAP sensor useless and any smooth stream of induction impossible above 6k rpm, and at all with the 626 mani. If either or any protege was with stock cams this would indeed kill any velocity and hopes of capturing good scavenging.
 
Our cams (stage 3) create such velocity with the stock mani that it is making cavitation that it is rendering the MAP sensor useless and any smooth stream of induction impossible above 6k rpm, and at all with the 626 mani. If either or any protege was with stock cams this would indeed kill any velocity and hopes of capturing good scavenging.
I'm not really sure what you're trying to say here. Cavitation is the formation of gases within a liquid due to forces applied to the liquid. The term is mostly applied to marine propellers...

Anyway, you're going to be hard-pressed to get good MAP readings with any intake when using big lift/duration/overlap cams. The ITBs will help get more air into the engine as demanded by the cams but they're likely going to make your MAP readings even worse. Your car is really just screaming for a properly-matched intake manifold (be it with ITBs or not). Borla advertises "vacuum accumulators" to help damp intake pulses for better MAP readings and other vacuum-operated devices (e.g. brake booster). All this appears to be is is a tube transversing all the intake runners to accumulate vaccum from each. I would think this would have a negative effect on resonance tuning.
 
my vocabulary is terrible, so cavitation is not the right word then.


2000-series.html

I think there still is individual vacuum ports on each runner. All I need are the vacuum for the pressure reg, gass evap, and engine managment. I do not have a brake booster anymore. I had to order the mx-5 intake gasket. I will check tomorrow to see if the intake ports are spaced the same. If so then I can use any miata 2.0 ITB's manifold, and modify the bolt holes drilling.

If not....... I may still look into the 505 intake or Ice88's ITB's
 
just went through the entire thread, lots of interesting stuff. idk how i overlooked this thread. subbed!
 
OK before I lay out 5k on ITB's I am going to try the 505 intake manifold. The runners are shorter than stock, MUCH shorter than the 626, but the angularity of the piece sucks, But I will like that I dont have to buy anything else and I can still use the ICV and my microtech.

Time to penny pinch and sell some crap and I can post up some dyno results for a N/A with a 505.
 
OK before I lay out 5k on ITB's I am going to try the 505 intake manifold. The runners are shorter than stock, MUCH shorter than the 626, but the angularity of the piece sucks, But I will like that I dont have to buy anything else and I can still use the ICV and my microtech.

Time to penny pinch and sell some crap and I can post up some dyno results for a N/A with a 505.

The results are extremely relevant to my interests. :)
 
OK before I lay out 5k on ITB's I am going to try the 505 intake manifold. The runners are shorter than stock, MUCH shorter than the 626, but the angularity of the piece sucks, But I will like that I dont have to buy anything else and I can still use the ICV and my microtech.

Time to penny pinch and sell some crap and I can post up some dyno results for a N/A with a 505.

Do you need the short runners or just the increased airflow? Really short runners with aggressive cams is going to make for a steep power curve with the peak at high engine speed. Or are you trying to tune for a specific resonance? I also wouldn't necessarily say the angular is a bad thing. If I recall correctly there was some design optimization performed. The neat thing with ITBs is you can play with different length horns and spacers to quickly change intake length and adjust the location of peak power.
 

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