intercooler gets extreeeeamly heat soaked

originally i was thinking the fan idea also. my cousin is an engineer for a company that makes things with similar products and he said he could make one with a temp gauge to read when the air got a certain temp at the top of the IC so the fan would auto kick on like the stock fan. cool idea. but then again.....i honetsly dont car because after about 10 sec. of driving the heat soak problem has pretty much gone away. you could always carry around a cooler of dry ice.

USER GUIDE: exit car at intersection, apply dry ice to IC, return to vehicle. repeat if necessary. In case of accidental overdose, please do not induce idle, speed and drive recklessly until proper dry ice level has been obtained.
 
I guess for street use a fmic is ok, I however feel its terrible for racing. A top mount works just fine under loads, if your crusing slow down a strip, and you are looking for a race, stop it :-) But if you must have that edge, i could see how the fmic would be an advantage.
 
Meth inj. or Front mount. Don't spray anything over it. NO2...engine go boom. CO2...engine go slow.

Gmac
 
taping over the bottom of the intercooler up would defeat the purpose of it, this would prevent airflow throught the fins preventing the cooling of the charged air. however sheilding the heat from the motor while still allowing ariflow would most def. be benificial.
 
i think they ment leave the fins open but cover bth ends of the core....i think. either way just shield the valve cover from the IC and youll block loads of heat from the engine to your IC. maybe we could fab something to cover the sides and bottom of the IC but leave the top good for airflow. it would block the hot air up but leave cold air in and around the IC. anyone think this would work? i hink it would be a good cheap mod but very beneficial. maybe find some old sheet metal to bend around and drill holes through to make it fit. ill try it this weekend if i get the chance. sounds like a decent add on for nothing at all. i mean something like almost to seal the IC to the top of the motor...???
 
i think they ment leave the fins open but cover bth ends of the core....i think. either way just shield the valve cover from the IC and youll block loads of heat from the engine to your IC. maybe we could fab something to cover the sides and bottom of the IC but leave the top good for airflow. it would block the hot air up but leave cold air in and around the IC. anyone think this would work? i hink it would be a good cheap mod but very beneficial. maybe find some old sheet metal to bend around and drill holes through to make it fit. ill try it this weekend if i get the chance. sounds like a decent add on for nothing at all. i mean something like almost to seal the IC to the top of the motor...???

+1 i have tues wed and thur off i am feeling inke this shouldn't be a hard project, bring home some tools from work and take lots of pics of the proccess so if it works out my fellow speeds can try.
 
So the ms3 is decently quick until it warms up and stop and go night cruising the intercooler gets so heat soaked the car becomes a lagging pig.. can i halfway fix this still using the stock intercooler?

It's not just the intercooler.

In stop and go traffic, the intake air temp can go way up. The ECU does not ignore the IAT sensor.

If the cooling fan comes on, you could be seeing 150 degree intake temps on a summer day.
 
It's not just the intercooler.

In stop and go traffic, the intake air temp can go way up. The ECU does not ignore the IAT sensor.

If the cooling fan comes on, you could be seeing 150 degree intake temps on a summer day.

thats only at idle more than likely. once you touch the gas you get a suck through your intake like you wouldnt believe. your intake pulls in so much air that even when its hot air inside its gone within the first rev of the motor. its never a stagnant air in your intake either. your IC is in such a bad place to grab the hot air and has a lot more vulnerability being directly on top of your motor to trap some hot air until you get that turbo spooling then your pulling in hot air like you wouldnt believe. (flame2)
 
It's not just the intercooler.

In stop and go traffic, the intake air temp can go way up. The ECU does not ignore the IAT sensor.

If the cooling fan comes on, you could be seeing 150 degree intake temps on a summer day.

I saw 154 degrees for the IAT the other day sitting in traffic.
 
thats only at idle more than likely. once you touch the gas you get a suck through your intake like you wouldnt believe. your intake pulls in so much air that even when its hot air inside its gone within the first rev of the motor. its never a stagnant air in your intake either. your IC is in such a bad place to grab the hot air and has a lot more vulnerability being directly on top of your motor to trap some hot air until you get that turbo spooling then your pulling in hot air like you wouldnt believe. (flame2)

If you monitor the IAT in real time (like I do), you would find that this is not the case. Keep in mind that when the cooling fan is running, hot air is blasted throughout the engine compartment. The air temperature under the hood (and near the intake) does not magically become cooler just because the intake is drawing in more air.
 
If you monitor the IAT in real time (like I do), you would find that this is not the case. Keep in mind that when the cooling fan is running, hot air is blasted throughout the engine compartment. The air temperature under the hood (and near the intake) does not magically become cooler just because the intake is drawing in more air.

unfortunately i do not have a monitor so my thoughts were just speculation. how long do the temperatures take to cool down then. i wouldnt suspect more than 10 seconds after your in motion. im talking something along the lines of this scenario. driving down a highway for maybe 30 mins. get off the highway. hit a stop light. temperatures rise to that 150. you start to move and air flow is restored at about 15-20 mph and your temps should be back to normal short after no?

it would also depend on whether you have a SRI or a CAI also. where the hp isnt much different the isolation of the CAI cone would greatly effect this would it not?
 
well i have removed the intercooler in attempt to get an idea for what size/shape sheild i iwll be leaning towards. now i'm off the auto stores to search for some sufficient materials. wish me luck.
 
i have hit 174 iat and 163 boost while idleing during pic shoot temps came down as soon as i started to move.
 
The engine compartment on the cars seems pretty well insulated. On my CX7 I can easily see 130-150F IATs if idling in traffic. The heat just builds up in there and there is no where for it to go. Moving helps a little, but not much.

On a day when Boost temp and IAT are up in the 140+ range, nothing will help. I can park my car in my garage and go back out 4 hours later and the engine bay is still pouring heat out.

Usually when I go home I open the hood for at least an hour so the heat isn't just sitting in the engine bay. The DISI cars need a vented hood, or some other way to quickly evacuate engine bay heat.
 

New Threads and Articles

Back