Interchangable parts thread
- Thread starter visiongt9506
- Start date
The 01-04 Escape endlinks are the ones you want. The the other years are too long.
the 05-10 would be perfect for lowered cars
sleepwalker
Member
- :
- 2010 Mazda CX-7 i Sport
Are you certain about that? I have been for years under the impression that the P5 front and rear wheel bearings are different, i.e. the rears are a slide-out-the-hub-and-slide-a-new-one-in affair, but the fronts require cutting and a hydraulic press. (The link claims to be for a front hub/bearing assembly, which doesn't mesh with what I think I know about our front wheel bearings.)
If I can just go buy new front hub/bearing assemblies and replace the whole damn thing, I'm there.
Both shops I went to are pretty small and they both said there was a possibility they'd have to replace the whole hub if the old bearing/hub were seized.
Also Rockauto sells front hub/bearing assemblies for a similar price under the Protege5 section, but they charge shipping (the one I linked on ebay is free shipping)
EDIT:
On 2nd thought I don't think it'll work. If you look at the pictures in this front bearing/hub replacement thread , there's grooves in the inside of the bearing for the drive shaft (not sure what its called on a front wheel drive), but the rear bearings are smooth like the one I linked. It also says its for the rear if you go look down in the details of the ebay ad. Google images confirms front bearings have the straight grooves for the drive shaft. So this probably won't work, amirite?
Last edited:
tweety2300
Member
- :
- 2001 mazda protege mp3
The only thing that I can possibly think would be different is whether its 4 or 5 lug.
I'm also confused by what you're saying. Are you attempting to say your p5 is rwd or awd? There were awd p5s but those are pretty much an entirely different car
I can tell you that the front is press in/out not quite sure where you guys are getting your info about cutting. I think you're just confusing yourselves
I'm also confused by what you're saying. Are you attempting to say your p5 is rwd or awd? There were awd p5s but those are pretty much an entirely different car
I can tell you that the front is press in/out not quite sure where you guys are getting your info about cutting. I think you're just confusing yourselves
DeathIncyde
Member
- :
- Mazda Protege LX 2001
you can put a 2001 toyota corolla type s front lip on the 2001-2003 mazda protege front bumper it fit with out mods
Is this good for the p5 or just the sedans.
whatusername
Member
- :
- 02 protege5
good for both
DeathIncyde
Member
- :
- Mazda Protege LX 2001
idk about p5 but it fit to sedans :3
Do you have one on your p5 or know anyone who tried it on. Any pics plz.
whatusername
Member
- :
- 02 protege5
no i dont to either question i just assumed since this is the p5 section and a p5 interchangeable thread that he had a p5 then i saw his pic and saw it was a sedan so i recant my earlier state cuz i do not know if it fits
whatusername
Member
- :
- 02 protege5
no but it sure does look cleaner check my pics n u will see
There's a thread on here about putting the master cylinder from an ABS equipped mazda 929 on the 3rd gen protege- makes the pedal a bit stiffer and the brakes engage quicker if you've gone with a larger brake set up and the larger calipers have changed the way your brake pedal feels now.
-i used the master cylinder from a 1993 929 with ABS and it fit on the brake booster no problem. My car is a 2001 with ABS, i don't know if this will work on protege's without abs. The protege with abs has two lines going into the master cylinder- one (and this is from the perspective of someone looking at the master cylinder/brake booster from the front of the car) on the left side of the cylinder, towards the back, and almost parallel with the ground but pointed up at a slight angle; and another that's at the front of the master cylinder and the brake fluid reservoir that's pointing straight up in the air. Both lines are attached to the master cylinder with flare nuts.
If your car doesn't have ABS but looks like that, it'll probably work.
One brake line (the one closer to the booster) needs to be bent down a little so that it's parallel to the ground, and it will attach to the 929 master cylinder using the flare nut that's already on the protege brake line. The other line (the one pointing up in the air) doesn't really need to be bent, but it needs to be moved over to the left a bit. The 929's brake line attaches to the master cylinder with 1 flare nut (the booster line) and a female banjo-to-flare nut adapter (the up in the air line)... There's a banjo bolt going into the cylinder, and the protege line with a flare nut on the end of it screws into the banjo bolt. I'll include a picture, but it's important that you get this part since you can't just screw the protege's flare nut line into the 929 MC's banjo bolt hole. I grabbed the adapter and bolt from the junkyard, along with a couple other banjo bolt to flare nut adapters that i found on the ABS block. There's a bunch of them on there so grab one or two just to make sure you have some. And get some new copper crush washers (disclaimer: i did not. No problems yet though...)
Oh, and i almost forgot- ya know you can use the 929's reservoir, but if you've got a protege with a manual transmission you'll want to transfer over your fluid reservoir over to the 929 M.C. To do this, you'll unscrew a screw from the bottom of the reservoir, and pull on it like hell until it explodes off of the master cylinder. Or you could sort of wiggle it out of there... point is it's really on there, but once the screw is off it's just pressed into some rubber fittings and will pull out. The procedure is the same for both your protege's reservoir and the 929's. To get your reservoir on the 929 MC, just push it down on those rubber fittings and when it's all the way down screw the screw back in.
Be careful not to get any dirt or debris in the master cylinder while you're messing with a dirty reservoir.
Swap reservoirs, Bolt up the MC to the brake booster, bolt up the lines... then bleed the system and good to go. We bleed the master cylinder before attaching the lines- to do this, we attach the master cylinder to the brake booster, and attach two short fuel lines (i used some that were attached to the 929's brake proportioning valve... which i also grabbed from the junk yard, for some reason. Someone take it from me, i don't know what to do with it.) to the master cylinder and run them back into the reservoir that's full of fluid. Someone pumps the brake pedal to cycle the fluid through the cylinder, and we do this until we don't see any bubbles come out of the lines. It's actually pretty fun.
Then we attach the lines while fluid goes everywhere and bleed the rest of the system the old fashioned way with a guy pumping the brake pedal and a guy closing/opening the bleeder screw on the calipers. Disclaimer: This can also be done with a girl, it doesn't have to be a guy, but this is Brains: there are no girls anywhere near here so we have to use guys.
While frantically trying to get those flare nuts threaded on during the fluid going everywhere part of the install, you may strip some of what appears to be a green rubbery coating off the fuel lines. You have to hope a big glob of it doesn't get in your cylinder once that line's on because once they're on who wants to take them off to check? This may also be of concern is it makes the lines exposed to... stuff... that might make them rust. Maybe that's unlikely in an engine bay, but it's something to think about. Same goes for other lines...
Here's a picture of the 929 MC on my car:
You'll notice that banjo bolt is bumping into part of my intake tube: I'm using a chopped up intake tube from a (i think... this is part of my ultimately stupid cold air intake) 1.8 BP that i saw in some old protege in a junkyard- i don't know if the banjo bolt will bump into the protege's stock air intake tube or other intake tubes going into the throttle body, but it's not giving me any problems to eaugh...
-i used the master cylinder from a 1993 929 with ABS and it fit on the brake booster no problem. My car is a 2001 with ABS, i don't know if this will work on protege's without abs. The protege with abs has two lines going into the master cylinder- one (and this is from the perspective of someone looking at the master cylinder/brake booster from the front of the car) on the left side of the cylinder, towards the back, and almost parallel with the ground but pointed up at a slight angle; and another that's at the front of the master cylinder and the brake fluid reservoir that's pointing straight up in the air. Both lines are attached to the master cylinder with flare nuts.
If your car doesn't have ABS but looks like that, it'll probably work.
One brake line (the one closer to the booster) needs to be bent down a little so that it's parallel to the ground, and it will attach to the 929 master cylinder using the flare nut that's already on the protege brake line. The other line (the one pointing up in the air) doesn't really need to be bent, but it needs to be moved over to the left a bit. The 929's brake line attaches to the master cylinder with 1 flare nut (the booster line) and a female banjo-to-flare nut adapter (the up in the air line)... There's a banjo bolt going into the cylinder, and the protege line with a flare nut on the end of it screws into the banjo bolt. I'll include a picture, but it's important that you get this part since you can't just screw the protege's flare nut line into the 929 MC's banjo bolt hole. I grabbed the adapter and bolt from the junkyard, along with a couple other banjo bolt to flare nut adapters that i found on the ABS block. There's a bunch of them on there so grab one or two just to make sure you have some. And get some new copper crush washers (disclaimer: i did not. No problems yet though...)
Oh, and i almost forgot- ya know you can use the 929's reservoir, but if you've got a protege with a manual transmission you'll want to transfer over your fluid reservoir over to the 929 M.C. To do this, you'll unscrew a screw from the bottom of the reservoir, and pull on it like hell until it explodes off of the master cylinder. Or you could sort of wiggle it out of there... point is it's really on there, but once the screw is off it's just pressed into some rubber fittings and will pull out. The procedure is the same for both your protege's reservoir and the 929's. To get your reservoir on the 929 MC, just push it down on those rubber fittings and when it's all the way down screw the screw back in.
Be careful not to get any dirt or debris in the master cylinder while you're messing with a dirty reservoir.
Swap reservoirs, Bolt up the MC to the brake booster, bolt up the lines... then bleed the system and good to go. We bleed the master cylinder before attaching the lines- to do this, we attach the master cylinder to the brake booster, and attach two short fuel lines (i used some that were attached to the 929's brake proportioning valve... which i also grabbed from the junk yard, for some reason. Someone take it from me, i don't know what to do with it.) to the master cylinder and run them back into the reservoir that's full of fluid. Someone pumps the brake pedal to cycle the fluid through the cylinder, and we do this until we don't see any bubbles come out of the lines. It's actually pretty fun.
Then we attach the lines while fluid goes everywhere and bleed the rest of the system the old fashioned way with a guy pumping the brake pedal and a guy closing/opening the bleeder screw on the calipers. Disclaimer: This can also be done with a girl, it doesn't have to be a guy, but this is Brains: there are no girls anywhere near here so we have to use guys.
While frantically trying to get those flare nuts threaded on during the fluid going everywhere part of the install, you may strip some of what appears to be a green rubbery coating off the fuel lines. You have to hope a big glob of it doesn't get in your cylinder once that line's on because once they're on who wants to take them off to check? This may also be of concern is it makes the lines exposed to... stuff... that might make them rust. Maybe that's unlikely in an engine bay, but it's something to think about. Same goes for other lines...
Here's a picture of the 929 MC on my car:
You'll notice that banjo bolt is bumping into part of my intake tube: I'm using a chopped up intake tube from a (i think... this is part of my ultimately stupid cold air intake) 1.8 BP that i saw in some old protege in a junkyard- i don't know if the banjo bolt will bump into the protege's stock air intake tube or other intake tubes going into the throttle body, but it's not giving me any problems to eaugh...
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