Intake Manifold Modifications.....

dont have that spec. What are you gonna try to harden it somehow?
 
Been looking into it... but the best info i have right now leans toward the head being made out of 319 aluminum hardened to a T5 or T6 spec. If that is the case hardening will get us nowhere. If is not hardened to those specs, then there is something to be gained! I have some sources for doing the work, I just need to get the info so I can determine what is needed.
 
I assume your doing this to lessen the distortion from the aluminum head. What about a girdle system? I know they use them on bottom end all the time......why not the top end.
 
correct... but at the same time I don't know how necessary that will be if I'm running a solid copper gasket, ARP head studs and the like... I'm going to probably max out at 24 psi... so I don't know how much I do or don't need at that point. But it is for lessening the head distortion. :). i've never heard of a girdle system, but any ideas are useful! The trick is trying to hold it around all those ports! :)
 
Get a bunch of big c-clamps and clamp it around the valve cover to the oil pan. That way you won't need head bolts.
 
I'm hitting the fuel cut at 8psi now in the mornings and nights(about 40deg) and I have the MAF on the pressure side. Before I put on this mani I was able to hit 10 psi without hitting the fuel cut in the weather. I'm guess there's a lot more air going through the system now with the new mani :). I mean the car feels as fast as it did at 10psi running 8-9psi now.
 
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CustomMSP said:
I'm hitting the fuel cut at 8psi now in the mornings and nights(about 40deg) and I have the MAF on the pressure side. Before I put on this mani I was able to hit 10 psi without hitting the fuel cut in the weather. I'm guess there's a lot more air going through the system now with the new mani :). I mean the car feels as fast as it did at 10psi running 8-9psi now.
As the old analogy goes: " An Engine is basically an air pump. The more air you can get in and out of it, the more power it can make. "

Try porting the head and the exaust manifold ,there are some solid gains there as well.
 
How many new gaskets are needed for this project?

I could have sworn that I saw a how-to take out the intake manifold. Anyone have the link.

Thanks
 
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Focus said:
As the old analogy goes: " An Engine is basically an air pump. The more air you can get in and out of it, the more power it can make. "

Try porting the head and the exaust manifold ,there are some solid gains there as well.
My transmission is hating me right now from all the extra power. It would be nice to get some free HP though.
 
smithers_0990 said:
How many new gaskets are needed for this project?

I could have sworn that I saw a how-to take out the intake manifold. Anyone have the link.

Thanks
I just used high temp copper sealer
 
smithers_0990 said:
How many new gaskets are needed for this project?

I could have sworn that I saw a how-to take out the intake manifold. Anyone have the link.

Thanks
I don't know if it is the one you are thinking of but we have one up on the documents section of www.nsnmotorsports.com
 
so why is it soo important to have the vics with forced induction? I mean the idea is to have two flows right? One long runner for lowend torque and one short for highend power?
 
Actually there's only one runner and a second chamber that is opened and closed with the VICS flappers. I don't really understand how this chamber is any help. I thought I would remove the VICS flappers as well, but when I took a look at the "second short runners" I was surprised to find a chamber instead. Somebody chime in :)
 
It is all about the air resonating in the chambers. When your intake valves close, the incoming air bounces off them backwards into the IM. If you make a chamber a certain length, then that pulse of air will hit the back of the chamber and return to the intake valves just in time to ram into the combustion chamber when they open for the next cycle. The vics valves effectively alter the chamber length, since the optimal length needed is different at different rpm.
 
I'm just explaining what the basic idea behind it is, as best I understand. As for how this behaves for FI, its all speculation since I haven't heard of anyone trying to dyno the differences and don't have any aerodynamics or fluid mechanics classes under my belt.
 

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