Installed new ignition switch today (Protege5)

katapaltes

'03 P5, '17 Miata, stock AF
:
Dallas, TX
:
2003 Protege5
I just ordered an ignition switch from MazdaSwag. It wasn't much more than the Standard or Beck/Arnley part on RockAuto. Got $2 off shipping using code "SWAG."

Part Number​
Part Name​
Price​
Quantity​
Total​
GP7A-66-151​
Ignition Switch​
$41.36​
1​
$41.36​

Subtotal: $41.36​
Estimated Shipping to 75209 via Standard Shipping: $8.93​
Discount: -$1.79​
Total: $48.50​

Installed my new ignition switch this afternoon and thought I'd create a new post. In the YouTube video I watched, the guy used a right-angle screwdriver because he couldn't easily use a regular or stubby screwdriver. However, if you remove the access panel on the left-hand side of the dash (hidden when door is closed), you can use a full-length Phillips head screwdriver to pretty easily loosen and tighten that one problem screw. I didn't notice whether this approach had been discussed, so wanted to share because removing that screw is the hardest part of this job if you don't go through that panel. I used trim removal tools to pop the panel so I didn't scratch it.

Starting the car was failing about 10% of the time and that's not exactly horrible, but as discussed it would only have gotten worse. And of course, I could have spent a lot of time (mine - and let's be honest, all of you guys' :p) diagnosing a no-start problem later on if this potential fix had somehow slipped my mind. The part was from Mazdaswag (see above) with a Mazda sticker that said Made in Japan.

Panel:
1644969649599.png


View through panel:
1644968570156.png


Phillip's disembodied head:
1644968614589.png


Old and new parts. (Note the grease on the old which had perhaps migrated from the lock cylinder? There's no mention of lubricant in service manual.):
1644969093752.png


Place where the replacement part goes (grease visible):
1644969191771.png


Got a good deal so went OEM:
1644975623736.png
 
Last edited:
Did mine about a month ago, used a ratcheting 90 degree screwdriver to reach that SOB.
I'll use this method the next time - if the car lives long enough to need another one!
 
Seems like you bought the OEM replacement part. Is this the kind of thing you'd buy aftermarket on RockAuto to save some money, or is OEM the way to go?

Need to do this replacement for both my P5 and my brother's sedan. His has 15k more miles than I do, and the switch is BAD. I've already had issues with mine, and I'm worried it's going to leave one of us stranded at some point.
 
In the YouTube video I watched, the guy used a right-angle screwdriver because he couldn't easily use a regular or stubby screwdriver.

Keep in mind that our car uses JIS screws (Japanese Industrial Standard) and a regular Phillips screwdriver can easily strip a JIS screw head, if it is tight or seized.



 
If we're comparing Rock Auto's price of $38 and $41 respectively (plus shipping) for the two brands that I've actually heard of vs. Mazda Swag's genuine OEM part that's made in Japan for $44 (plus shipping)... I mean, that was the easiest decision I've made in years. Go buy the OEM part from Mazda Swag! :)

By coincidence, I just ordered front and rear sway bar bushings (for my stock sway bars) from Mazda Swag today. They seem to have some of the best prices for genuine parts. I got $1 off my order today by getting 10% off shipping with SHIP10 as the promo code. You may be able to find a better code with your bigger order.
 
Because I'd replaced the ignition switch above, I went and dug the valet key - or whatever it is called when you have a hatchback :) - out of my drawer. I've never used it in 20 years, and it feels a lot crisper in the ignition than the other one. If you've still got yours, give it a whirl!

1664322828421.png
 
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Because I'd replaced the ignition switch above, I went and dug the valet key - or whatever it is called when you have a hatchback :) - out of my drawer. I've never used it in 20 years, and it feels a lot crisper in the ignition than the other one. If you've still got yours, give it a whirl!

View attachment 313317
Interesting, I was wondering why my second key was just bare metal. I guess I figured it was a replacement but that makes more sense. Interesting.
 
Interesting, I was wondering why my second key was just bare metal. I guess I figured it was a replacement but that makes more sense. Interesting.

The "valet" key (or whatever) may not unlock the glove box?
I've never actually tried it.
 
I finally tried the bare metal key in the glove box and it worked. Valet keys must no longer be a thing - especially in the age of keyless start. :)
 
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