Inconsistent Idle Issue & Help on Vacuum Hose Routing(Pics inside)

[C.Rod]

Ok i know that there are a million threads on idle issues but im curious if this may be in relation to my vacuum lines. The issue is a inconsistent drop in RPMs during idle or when the clutch is disengaged. The RPMs drop between 0-100, sometimes triggering the battery and check engine light to flicker as if the car had cut off, but then saves itself 10 seconds later and sits at 700rpms. It does not happen every time i stop or push in the clutch but it only happens after the car has warmed up. It also happens whether i have boosted or not.
I have already checked each coupler for cracks and tightness, no problems. I've replaced all the vacuum lines i could see and cleaned the egr valve. I have blown down the line going to the wastegate, no budge.
Info on the car: 2003.5, It does have a unichip system, dual BOV setup, ********** side mount with hot and cold pipes. I just recently switched to a corksport full intake from the before short ram. There is a single vacuum line ran to the wastegate that only the unichip is T'd off the intake manifold and the boost gauge and both BOVs are T'd off the brake booster line. Any help in my routing of vacuum lines is much appreciated as well as any other ideas, thank you.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/32607104@N08/9337783447/" title="DSC_1360 by CARfoto, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7381/9337783447_2715825778_c.jpg" width="800" height="534" alt="DSC_1360"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/32607104@N08/9340568588/" title="DSC_1359 by CARfoto, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3766/9340568588_abc891a55a_c.jpg" width="800" height="534" alt="DSC_1359"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/32607104@N08/9337782267/" title="DSC_1358 by CARfoto, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2860/9337782267_99a62bb56a_c.jpg" width="800" height="534" alt="DSC_1358"></a>

 

[whatusername]

first thing i noticed n ur setup is ur MAF u need to relocate it on the cold pipe 6 inches before the throttle body and after the BOV

 

[CHIQLES]

If you move the maf you will fix your issue. The main problem is that there is to much air volume released from your system at one time. the maf does not register air movement for a second and that is why idle drops and the lights blink.

 

[duren03msp]

if you run a BOV and BPV setup you should be ok without the idle drop because just enough pressure is recirculated instead of a complete cut off of flow.

 

[hornsfan10609]

The BOV, BPV, Unichip and WGA will all function better if you give them dedicated clean vacuum sources to reference instead of them all being T'd off the same source. A vacuum block on the brake booster line with some new silicone vacuum lines to go with the MAF relocation and you will be set.