If You Boosted A N/A Protege, READ THIS

[djarkitek]

Ok, through chasing phantom boost leaks for 2 weeks, I came to a decisive conclusion:

1. Make sure if you boost a N/A protege, you get vacuum clams for ALL of your vacuum and boost lines. If you don't do this, you can may waste time down the line chasing vacuum leaks, because you have lost power, or are getting inconsistant boost power (one day strong, the next not). I was looking at this all wrong. I was all worried about my hoses popping off, but the thing I didn't consider are very small boost leaks from unsecured hoses, when the lines seem like they are on tight. This turned out to be my issue here recently, as there were a few lines still without clamps, and I was loosing power. So I have been putting clamps on all my vac/boost lines, and my response is back! My theory on what was happening is kinda 2-fold:

A. With the E6X I have been having the famed ignition pop with my RX-7 injectors. When the key is turned to the on position, before cranking, there is an explosion/pop sound, and the boost gauge spikes to 20 PSI instantly, and then to 0. This is a lot of shock on vacuum lines, and over time, small leaks can occur where there are not clamps, or lines could even rupture if they are not strong enough. I am using Samco silicone lines for all but 2 of my vacuum lines currently, and this will change soon.

B. To compound this, the harsh conditions under the hood...like heat! Yes, heat causes things to expand, and no matter how good the seal is when you first connect your vac lines, heat and pressure of higher boosting will change the seal. This is just the heat outside the engine. Now lets look at the fact that boosting, by nature, heats up air. Period. This hot air enters your boost and vac lines. This hot air is under pressure.

Bottom line is that the MSP's come with all their vac/boost lines clamped for a reason. Just some food for thought.

with as muhc work as you put into your engine bay, i'm surprised you left anything unclamped, heh (no)

 

[LinuxRacr]

Question: how did you identify that you even have vacuum leaks? I am pretty sure that my BOV is stuck open, as I no longer get the fast boost increase nor the chirp sound when I shift.

It is experience. It seems that everytime I feel like I have been loosing power, I would fear that my engine is old, and that it may be time to rebuild. But before I go that route, I meticulously check for exhaust and vac/boost leaks, and I ALWAYS have found something. Whether a broken vac line, or a loose exhaust bolt.

 

[glyph]

I still have a huge exhaust leak that I am getting ready to fix once and for all. I just keep putting it aside since my wife is deployed and I have the two kids. I also need to replace my radiator, as it is hardly doing a good job of cooling the engine any more. Any good leads on where to find one? I will give my vac system a good examination at the same time.

 

[LinuxRacr]

PWR or AWR FTW!

 

[LinuxRacr]

^^^ Looks like it's time to invest in some more zip ties...

clamps = more reliable.

 

[glyph]

I was thinking AWR. What is PWR?

 

[AzteCypher]

Very good info. Thanks for sharing your experiences especially since I'm planning on boosting my 1.6 by either end of this year or beginning of next.

 

[magnumP5]

clamps = more reliable.

Yeah... I can't seem to find any good clamps though. I assume the clamps are the ones you have to pinch with plyers to remove?

 

[LinuxRacr]

Yes. Autozone seems to have some.

 

[reynoldsrobbie]

Yes. Autozone seems to have some.

Hey Linux, I think I have your old turbo setup. Its the Flyin protege kit with the T3. I have a question for you, since you have way more experience in turbos. When I drive the car after ite been sitting a while I have more power than I know what to do with(just kidding), BUT after Ive been driving it a while I seem to loose all power. I hear the turbo spooling and blowing off, but it doesnt seem to be putting me back in my seat like when its firsr running. Its all show and no go! I am reading about 17ish on the vacuum side and boosting around 8lbs. Could this possibly be the clutch???? Also Im getting quite a bit of oil coming out of the valve cover. Is this normal?

 

[LinuxRacr]

There needs to be a new thread for your question, as any answers would clutter up this thread. I'm in the middle of two server upgrades right now, and have been up for almost 24 hours. I am not sane enough to answer you right now...

 

[TheMAN]

Due to parts catalog errors that were never corrected, here's the info on securing your PCV valve hoses on the FS-DE if you're boosted... this information supplements this thread: http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63580

there's 2 options... you can purchase the preassembled hose set with most of the clamps from the MSP or you can get the clamps and put them on yourself...

I chose to purchase the hose set as it doesn't cost too much... then of course I had to get 3 other clamps to go with it

parts information:
FSAX-13-89Y PCV hose
9928-31-100 clamp (needs 2)
9928-31-400 clamp

or if you plan on reusing your PCV hose set, just double the amount of clamps listed above
9928-31-100 will go to the thinner hoses at the tee and at the intake manifold
9928-31-400 will go to the PCV valve neck (the fat stubby hose)

 

[GMalatrasi]

A probably not so quick question:
What factor exactly from boosting is it that our engines dont like?
In other words which of all the effects of turboing is it that causes our rods and pistons to bend or break, etc?
- Is it the increased running temperatures?
- Is it the intensified combustion?
- Is it the added forces to the system?

 

[StealthWyvern]

A probably not so quick question:
What factor exactly from boosting is it that our engines dont like?
In other words which of all the effects of turboing is it that causes our rods and pistons to bend or break, etc?
- Is it the increased running temperatures?
- Is it the intensified combustion?
- Is it the added forces to the system?

predetination is what kills our engines and runnign lean to my understanding.

 

[glyph]

from what I understand, it's the increased stress added to the engine or other parts of the system that limit your boost (psi levels). The engine simply wasn't designed for this kind of stress, that's why the MAM built engines could produce so much horsepower. They were structurally improved. I'm not sure if it's tied into the actual pressure levels (psi) or simply the amount of stress caused by running so much horsepower

 

[GMalatrasi]

I asked because if it's the higher running temperatures and the predetonation, then a water/meth injection system would solve both those problems, it wont however decrease the stresses since they are part of getting more HP.

 

[khaosman]

I've got a question. The past couple fill-ups, my tank has been acting like it is full even though it is not. Could this be caused by this? I do have this check valve installed (and I thought correctly), but maybe not.

I've been boosted for almost two months now and this issue just showed up last week, very weird.

 

[LinuxRacr]

Have you been smelling gasoline at stoplights and stopsigns?

 

[khaosman]

Have you been smelling gasoline at stoplights and stopsigns?

Not really, but my car runs so damn rich it wouldn't surprise me. It has been very hot and muggy during the time this problem showed up, so perhaps that has to do with it.

 

[khaosman]

80* and 57% humidity today, much cooler and drier. It still didn't fill. I checked the line this check valve is on and it wasn't broken or anything... maybe slightly pinched due to the angle of the hose.