Maxx Mazda
Contributor
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- Stock P5
Um.... Anyone look at the top of page 3? That's jsut sick...
If You Boosted A N/A Protege, READ THIS
- Thread starter LinuxRacr
- Start date
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
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- Stock P5
Ahem, mods can we have that s*** removed please?
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
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- Stock P5
Back on track, picked up my check valve and millenia PCV valve today...
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
- :
- Stock P5
Back on track, picked up my check valve and millenia PCV valve today...
1
16902
Ok, going turbo soon. I ordered seven hose clamps ($1.08ea), one canister check valve ($11.08), one cv intake clamp ($0.32), one cv solenoid clamp ($0.44) today. I think I got the quantity and types of parts correct according to the diagram. Everything came from Tonkin.com. Thanks to all those who helped with the info.(first)
MazdaSpeed626
Member
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- Mazda 626 1998 5spd 2.0l FSDE
my manifold isn't too much different on the 626....but i can't seem to find which hose the check valve goes on.....any ideas?
justanotheradikt
Member
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- 03 protege dx 5spd
ive got an extra check valve part number: 0000-88-C67 if anyone needs it.
I did this even before my turbo went on (got a little over anxious one weekend) but now that I have been p and running for about 2 weeks I haven't encountered any problems. I haven't gotten any of those clamps yet though. I went ehad and bought all new vac lines and everything seemed nice and snug... Nothing has popped off yet (knocks on wood)
Ok, through chasing phantom boost leaks for 2 weeks, I came to a decisive conclusion:
1. Make sure if you boost a N/A protege, you get vacuum clams for ALL of your vacuum and boost lines. If you don't do this, you can waste time down the line chasing vacuum leaks, because you have lost power, or are getting inconsistant boost power (one day strong, the next not). I was looking at this all wrong. I was all worried about my hoses popping off, but the thing I didn't consider are very small boost leaks from unsecured hoses, when the lines seem like they are on tight. This turned out to be my issue here recently, as there were a few lines still without clamps, and I was loosing power. So I have been putting clamps on all my vac/boost lines, and my response is back! My theory on what was happening is kinda 2-fold:
A. With the E6X I have been having the famed ignition pop with my RX-7 injectors. When the key is turned to the on position, before cranking, there is an explosion/pop sound, and the boost gauge spikes to 20 PSI instantly, and then to 0. This is a lot of shock on vacuum lines, and over time, small leaks can occur where there are not clamps, or lines could even rupture if they are not strong enough. I am using Samco silicone lines for all but 2 of my vacuum lines currently, and this will change soon.
B. To compound this, the harsh conditions under the hood...like heat! Yes, heat causes things to expand, and no matter how good the seal is when you first connect your vac lines, heat and pressure of higher boosting will change the seal. This is just the heat outside the engine. Now lets look at the fact that boosting, by nature, heats up air. Period. This hot air enters your boost and vac lines. This hot air is under pressure.
Bottom line is that the MSP's come with all their vac/boost lines clamped for a reason. Just some food for thought.
1. Make sure if you boost a N/A protege, you get vacuum clams for ALL of your vacuum and boost lines. If you don't do this, you can waste time down the line chasing vacuum leaks, because you have lost power, or are getting inconsistant boost power (one day strong, the next not). I was looking at this all wrong. I was all worried about my hoses popping off, but the thing I didn't consider are very small boost leaks from unsecured hoses, when the lines seem like they are on tight. This turned out to be my issue here recently, as there were a few lines still without clamps, and I was loosing power. So I have been putting clamps on all my vac/boost lines, and my response is back! My theory on what was happening is kinda 2-fold:
A. With the E6X I have been having the famed ignition pop with my RX-7 injectors. When the key is turned to the on position, before cranking, there is an explosion/pop sound, and the boost gauge spikes to 20 PSI instantly, and then to 0. This is a lot of shock on vacuum lines, and over time, small leaks can occur where there are not clamps, or lines could even rupture if they are not strong enough. I am using Samco silicone lines for all but 2 of my vacuum lines currently, and this will change soon.
B. To compound this, the harsh conditions under the hood...like heat! Yes, heat causes things to expand, and no matter how good the seal is when you first connect your vac lines, heat and pressure of higher boosting will change the seal. This is just the heat outside the engine. Now lets look at the fact that boosting, by nature, heats up air. Period. This hot air enters your boost and vac lines. This hot air is under pressure.
Bottom line is that the MSP's come with all their vac/boost lines clamped for a reason. Just some food for thought.
Last edited:
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- 03.5 YLW MSP
LinuxRacr said:
Thank you, thank you, thnk you. I do plan on boosting here pretty soon... well within the next year or so when I get everything together. But I guess my next mod is some fancey colored silcone vac lines and clamps! (i know its kinda ricey but it makes it a hell of a lot easier to keep track of what ones you have done.)
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- 03.5 YLW MSP
lol Colored ones at that! To match the lines when I get them.magnumP5 said:
