I think its Dead

J

jeremyfl

Member
:
2003.5 Protege 5
So was driving around and noticed my cel was on.....

Then I noticed car was not responding the way it normally does, then the temperature gauge just starting rising all the way to the top, started hearing a funny sound from the engine.

Decided I need to get to a dealer quick, all of a sudden the car just turned off and I was able to coast into a gas station.

Still have 4 mnths and 2400 miles on factory warranty, call roadside assistance and they came and towed it to dealer.

They gave me a Kia Sedona as a loaner ?!?!?!

Dealer should call tommorrow to tell me what happened.....

Wishe me luck that it is covered....
 
hmm well the cel is probably an engine temp to high code, and the sound your speaking of, did your car sound like a deisel? if so thats what some cars do when they over heat, how long were you driving? hopefully its no the water pump, hopefully its sonething stupid like a thrmostat. good luck keep us posted!
 
Yeah it was a clicking metallically sound only when i pressed the gas peddle. I was only driving for about 10 mins after i noticed everything. I turned the heat on as soon as i noticed temp rising (heard it helps some heat out of engine, not sure if its true).
 
jeremyfl said:
Yeah it was a clicking metallically sound only when i pressed the gas peddle. I was only driving for about 10 mins after i noticed everything. I turned the heat on as soon as i noticed temp rising (heard it helps some heat out of engine, not sure if its true).
Click to expand...

Metal clicking sound when hitting the gas peddal = not a good sign. Do you have any mods done to the car that would void the warranty?
 
jeremyfl said:
Yeah it was a clicking metallically sound only when i pressed the gas peddle. I was only driving for about 10 mins after i noticed everything. I turned the heat on as soon as i noticed temp rising (heard it helps some heat out of engine, not sure if its true).
Click to expand...


havent heard that since my '83 cutlass did this... it ran outta water... oops... but.. filled it up with water... good to go!
 
Jackelope said:
havent heard that since my '83 cutlass did this... it ran outta water... oops... but.. filled it up with water... good to go!
Click to expand...
Yeah well, those old RWD GM's could take a ******* pounding and keep going. I had several A-body's (Chevelle, El-caminos) and some Cutlasses/Monte Carlos and you could abuse the **** out of them and they kept on going. These newer cars though...not so much.
Good luck.
 
I do have mods:
Boost science boost controller
injen cai
dsm afc

I am keeping my fingers crossed that it is either something easy to fix and cheap or covered by warranty....

We will see they should call me tommorrow.
 
Having a AFC will Void your warrenty, but I wish you luck. Pray your dealer is really cool......
 
Well I was only boosting stock level when everything happened.

Dealer called and the verdict is blow everything. Blown engine, turbo, and radiator. They are giving me a price of $7000 to replace. Time to see what i can find...
 
Good luck getting it fixed. keep us updated!

Sidenote... if they void your warrenty like they did mine, i was quoted 7k as well for the replacement job.

Once i said no thanks, within 15 minutes the manager called me back and the new price was 5k.

So if you do have to pay out of pocket to the dealer, at least make them come down on the price. 15 minutes dropped my quote 2k.
 
Last edited:
Yeah they have not come down in price. They said they discounted some part 50%, however, when i reviewed the parts they listed everything seemed rather high no discount that i saw.
 
ItsSlow said:
This should help if they do decide to void your warranty..
http://www.semasan.com/main/main.aspx?id=60128
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info.

I know the law says that my aftermarket part has to be the direct cause, even though i was running stock boost at the time when the incident happened I did have a boost controller.

So mazda will mearly say that using it is what caused the end result. I would have to hire a lawyer and other engine and turbo specialist to fight this in the end I will win and have to pay the lawyer plus rental car for as long as it takes. Or i will loose have to pay the lawyer and the rental car. Appears to be a loose, loose situation.

If anyone that had this same problem and replaced the engine can give me a price it would be much appreciated, dont have to post for everyone can pm it to me.
 
I ended up buying a forged block and having a local tuner shop do the swap for me.

You can get used blocks for around 500 bucks, and forged blocks for 2-3k depending on the builder. My shop was charging between 800-1000.00 for labor to do the swap. Gives you some rough estimates to start working off of.
 
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