I relocated!!!!!

No problem I just got done doing this myself, and I wanted to keep my intake as a CAI. You will like it!
 
Well i put the CAI back on and reset my ecu and still hesitates like crazy. I will floor it , it will spool, get loud, then just barly move til about 5000 or 5500rpm then it will finally get all its power and go.......
 
vxfilmer1000 said:
Well before i was on 10psi it hesitated like it does now but before i relocated and while i was on 10psi it didnt hesitate...


Wow, I'm stumped.
Are you double checking for boost leaks, etc.? Maybe try switching to t-bolt clamps instead of worm clamps.
This is weird, I think you're the only case I've heard of where hesitation persisted after MAF relocation.
 
Matrix said:
Wow, I'm stumped.
Are you double checking for boost leaks, etc.? Maybe try switching to t-bolt clamps instead of worm clamps.
This is weird, I think you're the only case I've heard of where hesitation persisted after MAF relocation.


Is it maybe beacause my bov and maf are pretty close together, cause i remember reading somewhere that they need to be atleast 3 inchs apart, even tho i dont know why that would make it run more hesitate.
 
Matrix said:
In your pics, it looks to me like they're more than 3 inches apart.

I'm not all that educated about relocation, but doesn't everyone usually run the bov AFTER the MAF??
If that isn't an issue, I can guarentee you that your worm clamps you are using on your coldpipe vs t-bolt clamps are an issue. check to see if they loosen up after a couple of days of driving. Mine did and my car drove like crap on a stick. I replaced everything after the turbo with t-bolt clamps to hold the psi and I'm running stock boost.
 
srvntfhim said:
I'm not all that educated about relocation, but doesn't everyone usually run the bov AFTER the MAF??

Nope.
In the stock setup, the problem is that the BPV is located after the MAF and before the throttle body. The MAF measures a certain amount of air entering the intake. The engine thinks it's going to get that air, but it gets recirculated instead of making it past the throttle body and into the intake manifold. This causes slight hesitation and not-so-great gas mileage because the car is running unnecessarily rich (extra fuel is injected for air that didn't make it to the combustion chamber). When the MAF is relocated to after the BPV/BOV, the engine reads only air that is getting to the throttle body, not measuring air that is vented between shifts. Thus, a more accurate air/fuel ratio is maintained resulting in better fuel mileage and less/no hesitation or stumbling.
 
If those are home depot rubber couplers, get rid of them. They suck bigtime.

I had a few on the car when we did my intercooler piping, they tore, blew off. Complete nightmare.

You haven't had any problems with this happening?
 
Matrix said:
Nope.
In the stock setup, the problem is that the BPV is located after the MAF and before the throttle body. The MAF measures a certain amount of air entering the intake. The engine thinks it's going to get that air, but it gets recirculated instead of making it past the throttle body and into the intake manifold. This causes slight hesitation and not-so-great gas mileage because the car is running unnecessarily rich (extra fuel is injected for air that didn't make it to the combustion chamber). When the MAF is relocated to after the BPV/BOV, the engine reads only air that is getting to the throttle body, not measuring air that is vented between shifts. Thus, a more accurate air/fuel ratio is maintained resulting in better fuel mileage and less/no hesitation or stumbling.


Well thanks for the correction. I want to do that now too, since the msp hesitates like a mofo when you let off the throttle pretty often. Sucks. I can drive my friend's gti and let off the throttle at almost any speed or rpm and there is no hesitation whatsoever and thats on 20+ psi. You'd think that at 6psi the msp could handle itself!
 
vxfilmer1000 said:
So you guys think these would work alot better and "possibly" solve my problem http://www.siliconeintakes.com/product/000055.htm

If you are 100% sure that your pipes are exactly 2.0" outer diameter, then yes - along with t-bolt clamps as someone already mentioned.

Please confirm your hardpipe outer diameter before you purchase. I thought my hardpipes were 2.0" also, but then I measured just before I ordered and the OD was 2.25" (RTM)
 
Matrix said:
If you are 100% sure that your pipes are exactly 2.0" outer diameter, then yes - along with t-bolt clamps as someone already mentioned.

Please confirm your hardpipe outer diameter before you purchase. I thought my hardpipes were 2.0" also, but then I measured just before I ordered and the OD was 2.25" (RTM)


I will do man thanks
 
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