Remember that not every member is on here 24/7 and can respond to everyones needs as quickly. Anyways......
No and the diagrams tells you exactly where the power is coming from, self explanatory just look right above and below the diagram. It states "
Connection On Car " right above the diagram meaning both the stock wire plugs (
H4 female plug and 9005 female plug ) and "
New Headlight (H4) Connector ( looking at it from the rear of connector ) " right below the diagram (
which is an aftermarket H4 male plug ). You are using the same stock wires/plugs to power the relays. Like I suggested, buy both female and male H4 plugs and also a female 9005 plug for each side so you don't cut any stock wires. Ebay has them available for cheap.
If you remember that the P5 keeps the low beam on when the high beam turns on...... well that wire always stays on when you switch it on as you can see in the diagram. What you are essentially doing is when you power on or switch to the high beam, that positive power from the high beam powers the coil in the relay to switch the negative side from the low beam to the high beam negative so they alternate and not keep both on at the same time. If you failed to do this you would have both high and low beam filaments inside the bulb come on at the same time which will cause the bulb to heat up greater than it is expected to causing it to fail. Too much heat kills the bulb or reduces it's life span.
That is the reason an H4 bulb will alternate from high to low in a sedan as to why the headlamp is one reflector in an MSP/MP3/LX/DX/ES instead of the two reflectors in a P5. Since the bulb does not require a specific polarity meaning the flow of energy to be side specific as in negative and positive you can literally power it reverse polarity and you will still get a current to go through it to light the bulb. An LED is a different story and requires a specific polarity flow.
Remember the relay is basically a switch inside letting you choose two different paths when you energize the coil. When you add power to the coil inside it acts as a magnet pulling the lever towards it. When you cut the power you are demagnetizing the coil letting the lever go back to the other connection. There is a spring inside that keeps the lever away from the other contact. 87 and 87a is where you want the negative or even positive flow to go through. You can even use it as a switch to turn something off when you add power to the coil. The possibilities are endless with the relay. Just remember it is a powered switch. The Amps are what the Relay can handle.
I will try making a how to on this as soon as I have a chance. I took pictures of my stock P5 wiring and my brothers now MSP that are in my garage to show what the differences are. Again as stated both Sedan and Hatch are wired differently in its headlamp wiring as to why one needs a relay when going to MSP Headlights in a P5.