Hypertech Max Energy Sport CAI Update Now Available!

[Darth Vader]

Anyone who has wheels hitting is pushing the turbo beyond 18 psi ALOT and softening the small diameter (5mm) shaft of the KO4.

...and I repeat, flatness in hot and humid weather is normal. Especially on a performance tune, which is often pushing power-producing AFR limits harder. The stock tunes general flatness and dead performance up high would mask this more, especially on an unmodified car. That next-door-to-useless stock top mount intercooler is the primary culprit here. On a hot, humid day, the IC core can't transfer much charge heat to the air and, just like a person, the engine can get overheated internally and produce less power. Dangerous? not really. power-limiting? Yes.

If you have a Dashhawk (get one if you don't), monitor your boost air temp and see how high it is compared to a cooler day.

 

[Russm]

And if your impeller is hitting the houseing your oil seals are probably junk and you will be a regular mosquito repilant dispenser! (smoke)

 

[Darth Vader]

Oil seals don't locate the shaft, the bearings do. Since they are partially floating you can get shaft play, sag without necessarily seeing big smoke clouds. You're right though, sooner or later, it's going to start to leak.

 

[Stamperman]

Stamperman,

I think the sensors you're referring to are part of the Dynamic Stability Control System (DSC). The programmer does not defeat these sensors, or any other function of the DSC or TSC.

Chris

Chris,
I'm not sure it's part of the DSC system, but more of a programmed controlled boost cut based on the encoder feedback, much like the boost is llimited when in 1st or 2nd gear. Turning the tsc on and off has no affect.

It's most notable exiting 90 degree corners under power. In cases where you can give the car a lot of throttle after passing the apex you will find a kind of a "dead spot" between giving the car throttle after the apex and just before the wheel are almost straight again. I find a lot of times I can floor the throttle on the way out of the corner and as soon as the wheels are almost straight the car will get a sudden boost in acceleration hard enough to make the back end squat.

Being an old auto-xer I find this behavier annoying because a lot of times I'm flat on the gas out of a corner and I'm no where near the limit of traction, and when the boost does come in, I have to do a steering correction to make up for it. A small complaint really, but I'd be much happier driving the car to the limit myself than just hanging out and waiting to get the wheels straight enough for full boost to come back in.

 

[spdjnke]

Okay so officially, I will be putting back my stock plugs to see if i can get more response from the new Reflash, today was in the mid 80's and it was perfect for the car to really "run" and show me what the reflash can really do but still nothing really, so what do you guys think can step colder plugs be the culprit? and also I notice a hell of alot more heat coming off the intercooler right after you turn off the car, where before it takes a bit for the intercooler to be hot to the touch. SIGH, why can't things be more simple.

 

[Darth Vader]

Because this is the real world man, not a magasine article.

...and really, they are simple: all the engine needs is air, fuel and spark at the right times, just like a model T.

You add more boost, you create more charge heat, it's that simple. Mid 80s is hardly an ideal ambient temp to make a turbo car happy.

1 step colder plugs in 85 degree ambient temps will NOT be an issue. I don't know how many times you'll need to hear this before you believe it but, a top mount IC, with additional boost over stock, in humid and hot environments won't work that well.

This is why people go front mount or meth injection on turbo cars in the heat. You don't need to but, you have to accept the reality that some performance is lost using the stock IC in a higher boost application on hot days.

 

[spdjnke]

man who knows anymore, each car reacts to things so differently so I'm just going to keep trying new things until I get some sort of positive outcome with it.

 

[Remspeed3]

I just placed an order for one (HTP), but I think I might call and cancel it tomorrow..im not really ready to replace the intercooler and with the extra boost the stock intercoooler is not going to do the job! I don't want the performance to get even worse in the heat than it already is.

 

[spdjnke]

You know they did the tune with the stock intercooler right? I'm very happy with mine, just a bit more anal then most probably that's one reason why I keep trying new plug gaps and types etc. Well worth the money in my honest opinion.

 

[Darth Vader]

"worse" is relative. Even with the stock IC being pushed harder, you're still going up in power and the benefits are there at part throttle conditions as well.

This is endemic to the car, not the tune. If you bought an AP or SB, it'd still suffer the same in hot and humid weather.

 

[Remspeed3]

Yeah im all to familiar with inefficient intercoolers and more boost, my 1.8T GTI had a tiny side mount on it..and after the APR computer upgrade it had power for about one good run and then it would lose power..im going to go ahead and get the HTP and see for myself..I guess i''ll start planning for an ETS 3.25 TMIC to help combat heat soak.

 

[spdjnke]

There's enough people selling FMIC for reasonable prices so maybe you should keep your eye out for that instead of a ETS, which most people charge to much for a used one.

 

[Remspeed3]

There's enough people selling FMIC for reasonable prices so maybe you should keep your eye out for that instead of a ETS, which most people charge to much for a used one.

FMIC would be my first choice, but i don't want to remove the stock hood shroud, so thats why I prefer the TMIC...I'd rather buy a new one anyway..im not big on buying used stuff from people I don't know.

 

[spdjnke]

Then I would say go with the corksport model so it looks stock.

 

[kgb]

All right guys. I have logged a 100 miles to be safe and here are my observations on this:

1st and 2nd gear feel stonger, yet smoother

3rd and 4th gear feel like some of the wild child was loss, yet hitting and holding 17.5lbs boost and KR has gone at WOT!!!

5th and 6th gear feel stronger and more responsive

Gas mileage is better!

When I use the cruise control, it accelerates 1 to 2 MPH on the odometer. (This happened to my ATR when I adjusted a table (F-me I forget which table) but no big deal.

Until this morning, all my LTFT were under +5 and over -3. WOT was at 0.8 but after 1 WOT went to +10.2!!!!!!! Possibly something popped loose but as usual, I can't tell and will have to wait until I get home.

The only thing I would like back, as compared to stock is the less smooth 3rd and 4th gear acceleration....more wild child.

 

[spdjnke]

AH HA, so I'm not the only one expressing the concern with 3rd and 4th loss of "power" or as KGB puts it, the loss of "wild" child. maybe we should address that with Chris @ Hypertech.

 

[chief_wiggum]

is the perceived power loss you are describing a result of increased boost in 1st and 2nd, vice a loss of boost in 3rd and 4th? In other words, 3rd and 4th don't hit as hard as before, because the disparity in boost levels has decreased with the increase in boost in 1st and 2nd; kgb states he's holding 17.5 psi -- that's above stock level.

 

[kgb]

is the perceived power loss you are describing a result of increased boost in 1st and 2nd, vice a loss of boost in 3rd and 4th? In other words, 3rd and 4th don't hit as hard as before, because the disparity in boost levels has decreased with the increase in boost in 1st and 2nd; kgb states he's holding 17.5 psi -- that's above stock level.

...and that could be it....ha ha....kind of like an illusion so to speak....you know, I/we probably need to adjust our driving style since the power is being delivered differently..??

What about this theory that I posted on the other forum...

"I agree with smoother but more usable in 3rd and 4th....I don't understand that. Do you mean by "more usable" that there is less whellspin potential in 3rd and 4th gear or do you mean more people will like the smoother power delivery? I personally would like the less smooth delivery and more wild child....unless you mean that the wild child gain down low would fizzle out at the top end and that the smoother power delivery spreads it out longer?

Just trying to figure this out."

 

[leadf00t]

Just wanted everyone else to know it looks like a stripped bolt on my bpv is the likely culprit for my dtc. I had a spare cold pipe on hand, and re-installed the tune. Everything seems ok, but I am still seeing ltft's at -12.5 -13 at idle. So not exactly where we would like them to be, but not going to cause a check engine light. will keep everyone updated on my progress.

Well no such luck. I re-installed the tune, and same result P2188. I went back to stock for a few days, and things went back to normal. For grins I pulled the neg terminal, and reset the ecu. Drove around for a few days this way, and my trims are holding consistently. So everything seems fine unless I install the HT tune with the K&N. I have tested it 3 times, and the trims rise up into the -17-19's every time. For grins I decided to install the cpe-nano tune since I have not gotten a reply to my pm yet. My trims at idle will fluctuate from a -9 to -12, get a -7 around 1k-2.5k & seems to be holding 0 above that. So at least I can enjoy it this way until my issue gets resolved.

 

[spdjnke]

is the perceived power loss you are describing a result of increased boost in 1st and 2nd, vice a loss of boost in 3rd and 4th? In other words, 3rd and 4th don't hit as hard as before, because the disparity in boost levels has decreased with the increase in boost in 1st and 2nd; kgb states he's holding 17.5 psi -- that's above stock level.

Correct he did state 17.5, I'm getting 18.2psi - 18.7 psi but for some reason it feels........well flat just doesn't seem to be pulling just revving, it's hard to describe.