Hub and bearing assy

[StealthWyvern]

Has anyone here replaced the hub and bearing assy on the mazda6? I need to replace them on the gf 6i. Her driver rear is making some nasty noises so I figured I would replace both the pass and driver side rear.

I guess my question is.. is the installation pretty striaght forward? No I haven't looked yet to see what all would be in the way. I would assume it would be a pretty striaght forward bolt on instllation but is their any tricks of the trade that might be helpful? I was unable to locate a how-to for this as well. You 6 guys are slacking in the how-to area!(silly)

I assume it goes something like this.

1) put car on stands
2) remove rear tires
3) remove brake cable
3) remove caliper and support it via rope, bunje or whatever
4) remove rotor
5) remove bolts on the back of the hub

 

[jkunze]

Hub replacement

Not sure. Haven't had a need to replace any bearings yet. I have not seen a writeup on this yet, so take many pictures and do a How-To on it. (2thumbs)

 

[Blendercloud]

I did it on a late model 3-series BMW a couple years back. Depending on how seized up they are, you may need an incredible amount of torque on the bolts/nuts that mount the hub. I'm sure you probably already knew that though.

 

[StealthWyvern]

Not sure. Haven't had a need to replace any bearings yet. I have not seen a writeup on this yet, so take many pictures and do a How-To on it. (2thumbs)

So far my impression of the factory bearings for the 6 isn't all that great. Didn't reach 100k yet and already 2 bearings need to be replaced(pass front(done) and driver rear! idler pulley went as well seized bearing in it.... so yeah they are not that great in my eyes. Luckly for me the rear arn't pressed on.

I did it on a late model 3-series BMW a couple years back. Depending on how seized up they are, you may need an incredible amount of torque on the bolts/nuts that mount the hub. I'm sure you probably already knew that though.

I figured I would need something like that. I have a nice long 1/2 inch breaking bar and a cheater pipe if thats not enough to slide onto the end of it!


OT: But has any 6 guys had issues with the bolsters on their cloth seats just flat out wearing out to the point that need re-done or replaced?

 

[Blendercloud]

At 70k miles, that 2001 330i BMW was bone stock and needed a bearing one one side and a bearing and hub on the other. Don't feel too bad. At least the Mazda parts are moderately inexpensive.

 

[tunersteve]

Air tools FTW!

I changed wheel bearings on my '92 Dodge Daytona, but never had any issues with my protege, even after 84k when I sold it. I'm sure if you look around, if you find the FSM (there's a link somewhere in this section) you can get pretty detailed instructions and have a good idea on how to get it out. They're not fun to mess with, but are known to fail. Have you actually bought one yet?

 

[StealthWyvern]

At 70k miles, that 2001 330i BMW was bone stock and needed a bearing one one side and a bearing and hub on the other. Don't feel too bad. At least the Mazda parts are moderately inexpensive.

Depends on the car... the same part for my protege is pretty close to 100 bucks instead of 34ish for the 6.

Air tools FTW!

I changed wheel bearings on my '92 Dodge Daytona, but never had any issues with my protege, even after 84k when I sold it. I'm sure if you look around, if you find the FSM (there's a link somewhere in this section) you can get pretty detailed instructions and have a good idea on how to get it out. They're not fun to mess with, but are known to fail. Have you actually bought one yet?

Nope, I haven't purchased a service man for her car yet.

 

[ms6acton]

i changed the front driver wheel bearing on my ms6. just the bearing, used the same hub. the bolts that held the rotor on were so rusted we had to drill them out.