Howto: Rear Pad (disc) Replacement

JCell said:
did it 2 nights ago on an mp3, no problems!
Click to expand...

You and your sunshine state... I'm halfway through doing my rears and I had to get the rotor GLOWING and then bash at it with a 16oz hammer for about 15 minutes (exhausting) before I got it to budge.

I'm ready to put the wheel back on on that side and then off to do the other. With my luck I'll run out of propane for the torch. I don't have a spare tank at school :P
 
Question.....I plan on changing my brakes soon and i dont want to replace my rotors yet. What is the usual life of these rotors? I have 43k miles of mostly highway miles.
 
I really need help with the rear. The front were easy. Now im stuck on the rear and i cant get the piston to retract. Any help please. Im kinda limited on tools.
 
RenzoMSP said:
I really need help with the rear. The front were easy. Now im stuck on the rear and i cant get the piston to retract. Any help please. Im kinda limited on tools.
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IIRC on the MSP the rear brake pistons rotate to retract. I don't have an MSP so I don't really know any more than that. I know on mine it is just a bolt covering a gear thing that you put an allen wrench in to adjust the piston. Is there something you can gently twist the piston with?
 
msp has different rear calipers than us. i guess you need one of those tools that screws the piston in like with hondas
 
Well i finished everything. The rear were a b****. I went to pep boys and picked up one of these.
h335.jpg
 
Basically it has all those side and you match up the best side with the piston and turn it clockwise and the piston will retract. Oh also it just fits on a ratchet.
 
up s**** creek with out a paddle right now. Heres the problem. Changed the Rear left pads no problem once I Read this. The othr side was the problem, when I took off the bolt to get to the ajustement screw,.....Rust..... the screw was all rust. Yeah bad. so I sprayed it with WD40. long story short. The hex srew is stripped and Im pissed, Gonna need I new caliper Im thinkin. cant find anywhere to buy one though, what sucks is that I wanted to upgrade my brakes but I dont have the 850 for the protegegarage kit well i do but I cant spare the cash right now and now Im gonna spend more on something Im gonna be replacing anyway. Well any way anyone have extra lying around LOL. they would want to sell. or I will end up paying out the ass for dealership. Oh yeah its a 02 Protege ES.
 
Bumble G said:
good write up....

you forgot the most important part --> LUBRICATION.

Use a good quality brake grease. preferably a silicone based one.

DO NOT USE ANTISEASE neithere the silver nor the copper one.

you need to lubricate the 2 caliper pins/sliders/bolts

you also need to lubricate the guide plates on the side that contacts the brake pads.

and finaly it's a good idea to place some lube on the back of the pad that faces the piston.
Click to expand...


just did the rear wheel bearings, and pads (just b/c I was already there and what the hell, why not.), then came in and found this thread on adjusting the caliper.

Great, now I need to drag my ass outside tomorrow morning and readjust the brakes the right way.

BTW, it's easy enough to just reach under the car with the 14mm ratchet, and I actually used a T20 torx screwdriver on the adjuster and it worked great.

...now, although I didn't use Anti-Seize on this car (only because I had brake grease handy) I have been using it on my '89 Accord for the past 10 years worth of brake work along with all other work. I always use the silver anti-seize on everything. Slide bolt for calipers, bolts for lower front fork (on the front of the accord), basically anything. Anyway, I bring this up only because I don't see why I should not use it. Can someone enlighten me? Just b/c I have done it so long, and had no trouble does not mean I wasn't doing something wrong. If I should not use this for some reason, I need to know as the Honda is about to undergo a full teardown and rebuild from the ground up, literally with about 18K worth of mods to it.

One more thing... Don't our rotors have two threaded holes in them on the tophat? If so, why not walk the rotor off with two bolts that match that tapped hole? Just put a bolt in each hole and crank away until the rotor pops free.
 
Last edited:
because the s*** will dry up into crap over time and seizes the s*** worse than without grease
 
I'd say that's a good reason. Although I never has that trouble, the fact that you're telling me it can happen is reason enough to stop. I'll be using the right stuff now. Thanks for the tip.
 
Now I just went through this, and my only question is this - is bleeding of the brakes required? I know when my dad and I did the fronts, we bled the lines once we reassembled everything. Is it required?
 
I can't see the pictures anymore. I was hoping to change my brake pads this weekend. Any help?
 
is bleeding of the brakes required?
Click to expand...
If all you did was replace the pads, then No, the fliud does not need bleed... there are certain circumstances that this is required but 99% of the time you are good to go after pumping the brakes after pad install.
 
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