MazdaSpeeder
Member
- :
- Protege5 (5-spd)
Really? I stand corrected. I should have consulted the shop manual first.
How-To: Wheel Bearing Replacement
- Thread starter the-one1
- Start date
Great write-up. Please add this link to your write-up to have an all-inclusive how-to. This provides instructions on the press out procedure.
http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-faq-ge...-wheel-bearings-hydraulic-press-required.html
http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-faq-ge...-wheel-bearings-hydraulic-press-required.html
MixManMash
Member
- :
- 02 Protege ES 2.0
One tool that helps in separating the lower control arm and for separating the tie rod end is this:
I picked one of these up on sale for around $20 years ago and man did it save me a lot of headache on this repair job. Almost 300,000 kms on my Protege and the bearings quit.
I picked one of these up on sale for around $20 years ago and man did it save me a lot of headache on this repair job. Almost 300,000 kms on my Protege and the bearings quit.
Hey all. Have a question on removing the right front hub assembly. I have a stuck axle nut. I'm afraid of stripping the nut - it's been that bad. Here's what we, myself and two neighbors, have tried (and I did put a 50/50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid in an attempt to help it break free)...
Impact wrench (I don't have a heavy duty one - 90 p.s.i.)
with socket on nut, hit the socket to see if it would help
socket with 4' breaker bar
socket with 4' breaker bar and a large pipe wrench on the socket extension, beating the pipe wrench while at the same time cranking on the breaker bar
the above after heating the axle nut with torch
I've got to ask...is this a reverse thread? (we briefly tried that too)
BTW, I read that the metal near the "key" needs to be moved out of that key area. Mine was bent but not at the "key" area. I still bent it away from the axle.
First time I actually closed up shop early for the day (I will usually stay out on it til the early hours - 5am - working on it before I give it a rest). I do not claim to be mechanically inclined but because of threads like this one, I have literally saved a couple of thousand since retirement (and thank you all). I am open to suggestions.
Impact wrench (I don't have a heavy duty one - 90 p.s.i.)
with socket on nut, hit the socket to see if it would help
socket with 4' breaker bar
socket with 4' breaker bar and a large pipe wrench on the socket extension, beating the pipe wrench while at the same time cranking on the breaker bar
the above after heating the axle nut with torch
I've got to ask...is this a reverse thread? (we briefly tried that too)
BTW, I read that the metal near the "key" needs to be moved out of that key area. Mine was bent but not at the "key" area. I still bent it away from the axle.
First time I actually closed up shop early for the day (I will usually stay out on it til the early hours - 5am - working on it before I give it a rest). I do not claim to be mechanically inclined but because of threads like this one, I have literally saved a couple of thousand since retirement (and thank you all). I am open to suggestions.
MazdaSpeeder
Member
- :
- Protege5 (5-spd)
It is not a reverse thread. I had success with the breaker bar by leaning on it and pushing off, leaning on it and pushing off. I would also say that a better impact wrench would do the trick...there's no way 90psi is going to cut it.
Actually, if your impact wrench is good enough, you probably just need a stronger compressor. You need to look for a compressor that flows high CFM (5 or more) at 90 psi.
Actually, if your impact wrench is good enough, you probably just need a stronger compressor. You need to look for a compressor that flows high CFM (5 or more) at 90 psi.
Appreciate it MazdaSpeeder I'm in process of borrowing one. Will chime in how it gets removed.
BTW
5 qt container - $26 retail, of G-oil, 5w30 synthetic, at Wally World $28.15 after tax. (If you buy 5 single quarts its more expensive) Then go to this site:
http://www.getg.com/campaigns/request.php?cID=getg121002 EXPIRES October 31
and mail-in rebate for $26 (yea the math is right, $2.15 for 5 qt. container when it's all said and done). Just thought I'd pass it on. I've checked it out via the web for quite a while before I made the move and found some convincing info. Anyway appreciate all of your posts.
BTW
5 qt container - $26 retail, of G-oil, 5w30 synthetic, at Wally World $28.15 after tax. (If you buy 5 single quarts its more expensive) Then go to this site:
http://www.getg.com/campaigns/request.php?cID=getg121002 EXPIRES October 31
and mail-in rebate for $26 (yea the math is right, $2.15 for 5 qt. container when it's all said and done). Just thought I'd pass it on. I've checked it out via the web for quite a while before I made the move and found some convincing info. Anyway appreciate all of your posts.
Just tried the impact air wrench, Goodyear rated 360 ft lbs., with a compressor that puts out 10.2 cfm at 90 psi. Didn't work on EITHER axle nut. BTW, I broke the 1/2 breaker bar trying trying the other axle nut on the front. On that note, I posted a new thread for the problem I am having, thus the reason I need to remove the axle nuts, on this thread:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...-bearing-cv-axle-tranny&p=6058776#post6058776
if you can shed any light there that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again and still open to suggestions on the axle nut removal...
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...-bearing-cv-axle-tranny&p=6058776#post6058776
if you can shed any light there that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again and still open to suggestions on the axle nut removal...
Went out and picked up Harbor Freight 1000 lb torques 3/4" air impact wrench, set of 3/4" sockets, and a 3/4" drive breaker bar. Then to the hardware shop and bought 6' schedule galvanized pipe. Got home and the 3/4" breaker bar with 6' cheater broke loose both axle nuts! (Gonna have to return the 3/4" impact cause need the money for parts). Thanks!
BTW this is the post I need help troubleshooting on
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123822461
BTW this is the post I need help troubleshooting on
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123822461
Last edited:
MazdaSpeeder
Member
- :
- Protege5 (5-spd)
good! those axle nuts are tough...glad you're on the road to getting it fixed!
Mazda dealer told me today that both of my front bearings were bad, and front passenger side hub assembly is warped. I am not going to pay the $800 dollars. Can I just by a hub assembly with the the bearings in them already for the passenger side? Has anyone purchased a hub assembly? What brand? Thanks in advance.
I also need to want to replace the wheel bearing and hub assembly as it may be shot and from all the posts I have read to avoid problems many have experienced with place front bearings.
Has anyone purchased a hub assembly? What brand? Thanks in advance.
New hubs used to be expensive but they don't appear to be anymore. Maybe my memory just sucks. You can get them at RockAuto.com and I've never had an issue with Dorman brand. You'll need to get new wheel studs as well. When I ran into an axle/wheel bearing combo problem I ordered an entire knuckle from a salvage yard. I think it was $100 shipped and all I had to do was swap the entire piece out.
Oh, as to the question about getting the axle out. Heat could help. When I ran into this problem I took the entire thing to the shop and they got it out with a gigantic air hammer, 1000lb force if I remember the dude correctly. He was really, really, really excited to get to use it too. $20 and a case of beer and I was out the door.
