Check to make sure the splines aren't messed up on the hub and that they did not mushroom the hub if the hammered it out.
How-To: Wheel Bearing Replacement
- Thread starter the-one1
- Start date
Check to make sure the splines aren't messed up on the hub and that they did not mushroom the hub if the hammered it out.
MazdaSpeeder
Member
- :
- Protege5 (5-spd)
has anyone dealt with the ABS speed sensor while doing this and have any advice. We have already broken the driver side sensor, though we have a plan to fix it, but it's not in this how-to and I was curious what others have done who have encountered it.
I took mine off with a little trouble...there is a pin used to place the sensor on the knuckle that I broke...I really tried not to but that thing wasn't moving at all...
BTW update on my situation...I still can't get the axle in and after a little over persuasion have stripped the axle thread on the outside and picked up a new axle for $150 to replace but the lip after the splines on the axle are really just hitting edge of the new bearing...so frustrating....
BTW update on my situation...I still can't get the axle in and after a little over persuasion have stripped the axle thread on the outside and picked up a new axle for $150 to replace but the lip after the splines on the axle are really just hitting edge of the new bearing...so frustrating....
MazdaSpeeder
Member
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- Protege5 (5-spd)
So now ABS speed sensor is the least of my problems. Above poster, What did you do about the broken one?
Try as we might, we cannot get the lower control arm separated from the hub assembly. The bolt is stuck tight, despite hammering and lots of PB Blaster. We've tried to push out the pin with the bolt still in, but no dice. Ugh, I need some sleep. Anyone with ideas please chime in...not sure how we will make this work.
Try as we might, we cannot get the lower control arm separated from the hub assembly. The bolt is stuck tight, despite hammering and lots of PB Blaster. We've tried to push out the pin with the bolt still in, but no dice. Ugh, I need some sleep. Anyone with ideas please chime in...not sure how we will make this work.
it took me some real time to get the knuckle off of the lower control arm...I used a 3/8" extension and a small sledge hammer to get it off. I found the only way to really get it off is to work on it and support the knuckle by a jack otherwise the energy is dissipated by the control arm bushings
as for the old axle I had to give it in as a core deposit but I honestly think I did some real damage to the outer cv boot when I was trying to squeeze in the axle to the hub
as for the old axle I had to give it in as a core deposit but I honestly think I did some real damage to the outer cv boot when I was trying to squeeze in the axle to the hub
Did you unhook it where it goes across the back of the strut? Where did it break?
This is not wanted I wanted to hear.(burn) I need to replace my bushing on the lower control arm. I heard it was a pain but I was hoping to hear an easier way than disassembling the the whole side.
Let me know how it works out.
MazdaSpeeder
Member
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- Protege5 (5-spd)
Here are my experiences with this project.
First, I would replace the axle nuts...mine had been removed at least once before, and after this second removal and replacement, they're in tough shape. We also needed to replace the pinch bolts connecting the lower control arms to the spindle. They were tough to remove (we used a nut cracker to break one of the nuts that wouldn't turn) and were pretty messed up by the time we got them out.
Total price from Mazda for two bolt and two nuts- $25. ugh. This was by far the hardest part of the process. After getting the nuts off, we still could not get the bolts out, so we ended up spinning them with a breaker bar (they didn't want to move at all in the beginning) and continually lubing them with PB. They finally got loose enough to come out.
My P5 had ABS, which the car in the pictures does not. There's another step involved for ABS cars. First, you'll see cogs around your axle where there's a smooth spot on the example axle. It's the band (not the band that holds the rubber boot) that appears to line up with the empty hole on the lower control arm in the above picture. On top of the hub, there's a sensor with a 10mm (I think) bolt. This sensor has to come out before you can remove the hub.
Once the 10mm bolt is out, the sensor isn't free...wiggle it gently until it comes out. It has a plastic peg that fits into a spot on the top of the hub. I broke the first one, but was able to reposition/repair it with superglue. The manual says that allowing the sensor to touch metal could create an electrical problem, so we wrapped each in a plastic bag and hung them from the brake line. When reinstalling, make sure the sensor hovers over but does not touch the cogs.
It's a good idea to replace the cotter pins. Mine were Dorman brand from autozone, M3 x 30mm (1/8" x 1"). When reinstalling the nut, the tie rod bolt might spin, but if you have two people, have one person put pressure down on the top while the other tightens the nut.
Leave nut on and bang with a rubber mallet to loosen joint. You will need to do this!
I would PB blast each nut and bolt after removal and clean them with a rag to get the rust/gunk out of the threads before reinstallation.
We needed an axle pusher from autozone to remove one axle. It was $25 for the loan, all of which was refunded when I returned it. It came out easily with the pusher.
It was a long two days; we had a shop press the bearings for $25 apiece. We tried to get the lower control arm pin out without first removing the pinch bolt, and this doesn't work, so don't try it. I also smashed my thumb and burned my hand (my Father's hand slipped while heating a bolt with a torch). I'm glad it's done. If you have any questions, feel free to post them...I hope your install goes easier than mine!
First, I would replace the axle nuts...mine had been removed at least once before, and after this second removal and replacement, they're in tough shape. We also needed to replace the pinch bolts connecting the lower control arms to the spindle. They were tough to remove (we used a nut cracker to break one of the nuts that wouldn't turn) and were pretty messed up by the time we got them out.
Total price from Mazda for two bolt and two nuts- $25. ugh. This was by far the hardest part of the process. After getting the nuts off, we still could not get the bolts out, so we ended up spinning them with a breaker bar (they didn't want to move at all in the beginning) and continually lubing them with PB. They finally got loose enough to come out.
My P5 had ABS, which the car in the pictures does not. There's another step involved for ABS cars. First, you'll see cogs around your axle where there's a smooth spot on the example axle. It's the band (not the band that holds the rubber boot) that appears to line up with the empty hole on the lower control arm in the above picture. On top of the hub, there's a sensor with a 10mm (I think) bolt. This sensor has to come out before you can remove the hub.
Once the 10mm bolt is out, the sensor isn't free...wiggle it gently until it comes out. It has a plastic peg that fits into a spot on the top of the hub. I broke the first one, but was able to reposition/repair it with superglue. The manual says that allowing the sensor to touch metal could create an electrical problem, so we wrapped each in a plastic bag and hung them from the brake line. When reinstalling, make sure the sensor hovers over but does not touch the cogs.
It's a good idea to replace the cotter pins. Mine were Dorman brand from autozone, M3 x 30mm (1/8" x 1"). When reinstalling the nut, the tie rod bolt might spin, but if you have two people, have one person put pressure down on the top while the other tightens the nut.
Leave nut on and bang with a rubber mallet to loosen joint. You will need to do this!
I would PB blast each nut and bolt after removal and clean them with a rag to get the rust/gunk out of the threads before reinstallation.
We needed an axle pusher from autozone to remove one axle. It was $25 for the loan, all of which was refunded when I returned it. It came out easily with the pusher.
It was a long two days; we had a shop press the bearings for $25 apiece. We tried to get the lower control arm pin out without first removing the pinch bolt, and this doesn't work, so don't try it. I also smashed my thumb and burned my hand (my Father's hand slipped while heating a bolt with a torch). I'm glad it's done. If you have any questions, feel free to post them...I hope your install goes easier than mine!
MazdaSpeeder
Member
- :
- Protege5 (5-spd)
I don't think you can do the bushing by itself...I think the whole control arm needs to be switched out. If not, let me know...one of my bushings is shot.
I broke the small guide peg for the sensor. I detailed my repair above.
well I finally got the car back together...but had to replace the axle as the old one stripped. I found the the only way I could get the axle back into the knuckle was to take a large socket and place it over the axle on the knuckle, then take a sledge hammer and bang the socket to force the axle into the knuckle a little before using the axle nut to suck the axle back in.
good write up. I will add this about removing the Tie Rod Ends though. Whenever I remove a TRE I just pull the cotter pin then back off the castle nut to where it is only hanging on by about 5 turns. Then I use a ball peen hammer and hit the knuckle- not the TRE or castle nut as you could damage it. Just give the knuckle a few smacks on either side and you will see it pops right out.
This is what I meant like 15 posts ago. Only I also put some pressue on the tie rod end with a jack from underneath, behind the knuckle, in order to help it "pop"
(squinty) Don't think so.
MazdaSpeeder
Member
- :
- Protege5 (5-spd)
I think P-Funk is right...the shop that installed mine did not grease them if I remember correctly. THey're a sealed unit and all the grease is inside.
It doesn't matter if you grease the outsides of the bearings - it just helps them slide in to the knuckles easier. By sealed bearings, they mean you can't add any grease inside the bearings. As for spinning a race from too much grease, not gonna happen.
persianpassion
Member
How can Hub go bad?
Hi Guys,
I've got an 02 protege with the front driver side bearing gone, and possibly the front passenger side as well. I've got a couple estimates from shops, but after seeing this post I may attempt this myself. The Shops are saying the Hub may also be bad as well. Is that possible? Can a Hub go bad? Can anyone explain what that means and how that can happen?
Thanks,
- PP
Hi Guys,
I've got an 02 protege with the front driver side bearing gone, and possibly the front passenger side as well. I've got a couple estimates from shops, but after seeing this post I may attempt this myself. The Shops are saying the Hub may also be bad as well. Is that possible? Can a Hub go bad? Can anyone explain what that means and how that can happen?
Thanks,
- PP
Great write-up and follow-up suggestions - thanks to all for the help!
Another suggestion if you can't separate the knuckle from the LCA (I came to this conclusion after beating on it for 2 days using all the techniques/suggestions outlined above), is to remove the LCA as well and have the shop that's going to press the bearings press out the ball joint from the knuckle as well. 15 minutes and five bolts later I was on my way to the shop.
Another suggestion if you can't separate the knuckle from the LCA (I came to this conclusion after beating on it for 2 days using all the techniques/suggestions outlined above), is to remove the LCA as well and have the shop that's going to press the bearings press out the ball joint from the knuckle as well. 15 minutes and five bolts later I was on my way to the shop.
microman777
Member
My front right side has a really bad clicking noise when I turn. Is this the fix for that problem? What would a mechanic charge to get this done?
MazdaSpeeder
Member
- :
- Protege5 (5-spd)
Clicking during turning is normally a CV joint. THat will probably require a shop to get repaired.
CV half-shafts are easier than bearings. Assuming of course it's not seized in the knuckle.
