How-To: VTCS Removal and Porting

flat_black said:
200 rpm? Are you sure you're reading the tach right? The first tick mark, just above 0 rpm is actually 500 rpm, and your engine will stall below that, nearly without fail.

For that matter, the carb cleaner is done to see if there are any vacuum leaks. When you go over the manifold spot that may have a vac leak, the idle should jump up. Really, the gasket should be cleaned off, a new one should either be procured, or just use gasket sealer. Preferably copper or red. I used red personally.
500 RPM? Oh wow, I never realized that before. My engine pretty much goes down as low as it can before the CEL/oil pressure/check battery lights would come on (the ones that come up when you stall out) but it's almost like the ecu catches itself and bumps it back up. This doesn't happen continuously but every once in a while and is noticeable enough to be annoying. For the gaskets I had a new one for the head/IM connection but I resued the metal gasket between the IM halves. It seemed to be in good enough condition (it still had the little bump-thing) and it wasn't sealed before so I figured it'd still be good to use again - that may have been my problem. Either that or a reassembled everything in a bad order - which could be it. Are you supposed to start at the middle and work your way out to the ends with the bolts/nuts just like with an exhaust manifold? Looking back, I probably should have put the IM halves back together and tightened everything down first, then attach it to the head in the order I explained above. I guess I'll have to try this later when my hands are healed from the first removal...
 
just an update for you guys... my turbo was leaking oil so I had to return my car to stock, two days ago I bought an intake manifold that was already ported and had the vtcs removal, it should be here on friday, hopefully will be installed on saturday, if Brian could help me out with it that is...
 
Boston5761 said:
anyone have a mani for sale that has already had the vtcs removed?
I have a regular IM for sale - I know you said one with VTCS already removed but it really isn't a very hard process to remove them yourself.
 
i might be able to hook you up shortly, but It isn't finnished yet
Boston5761 said:
anyone have a mani for sale that has already had the vtcs removed?
 
Got mine ported only took me an hr now I just have to go over it with a finer grit.
 

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Laser03pro said:
Got mine ported only took me an hr now I just have to go over it with a finer grit.
you should gasket match it since you have it off
 
Unless your Protege is turbocharged/overly built, I wouldn't suggest gasket matching, perse. While it can allow greater laminar flow at higher RPM, at lower RPM, the velocity loss will be substantial. Just an FYI. Looks good, Laser. =)

- Eddie
 
Velocifero said:
you should gasket match it since you have it off
I opened it up pretty much alrdy if I go much bigger it wont really help neways cause the rest of the port is alot smaller.
 
http://www.**********.com/product_p/sufsim.htm

Is what you did to your manifold the same as what they are selling on ********** and some other sites?
 
im installing mine tomorrow. i only bought a sapre higher part. hopefully it will be easy and i will catch up and do the right things.

i would like if you guys could tip me or show pics on how to remove - reinstall the higher part of the intake

ill be checking here tomorrow morning, then i'm doing it.

thanks in advance
 
ok guys you gotta help me now... ive removed every freakin screw on top so i can pull out my intake (upper part only)

its freaking jammed. ive been working on this for 4 hours right now. it took 20 mins to remove screws, and now its been like 2 hours since ive started trying to remove the ******* intake.

ITS STUCK

help me next step is a fire torch.. but it would be a ******* stupid idea since my fuel line had spread fuel everywhere so everythings going to blow if i do this..

help... fast
 
Uhh... Did you crawl under the car and loosen/remove the support bracket for the bottom of the manifold? If not, you won't be able to move the top at all, as the studs on the upper portion of the manifold will pin it in place. Lift the front end, crawl under, remove the two bolts on the bottom of the manifold, and the two on the block, then shift it around 'till it pulls up and back, past the studs on the head.
 
i forgot 2 bolts on the engine-vtsc part. the one under the first and last air entry.

then i had to remove the 2 ******* huge bolts under the car. no choice, else it wont move enought to be able to pull it out..

when i put everything back on, I forgot the spacers that make the end of the injectors tight in the engine, so i had crazy problems. i put them back on, and one injector had a broken O ring, and there was gas everywhere.

anyways, it took my whole freakin day. but next time i'd be able to do it in like an hour.

my car idle smoother, and i hear the response at 3500+++

nice s***.

prolly going to port the throttlebody soon?...(maybe)
 
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