How-To: VTCS Removal and Porting

5200 RPMs, eh? That must explain the sound I hear right at that RPM when at WOT. The pitch suddenly change right about there and gets louder, which always reminded me of the Variable Intake System on my mom's 05 V6 Altima.. which sorta does the same thing but supposedly does it with having two intake paths.

I like VICS, I just don't like it's screws in my combustion chamber (ughdance)

I really need to pick up a spare intake manifold. Once I have some money saved up when I start my job in June, I'm definitely picking one up and either doing the work myself (living by myself in my apartment all summer 6+ hours from my friends will get quite boring I'm sure) or having a competant machine shop do port/polish on the manifold or something.
 
Laser03pro said:
KanseiZM said:
I like VICS, I just don't like it's screws in my combustion chamber (ughdance) quote]
They wont hurt any thing if they are tightened right with some lock-tite

If I'm going to take off my intake manifold I'll be removing the VTCS (MP3 ECU doesn't recognize it anyway) so I need a spare because I can't be without my car for any amount of time :)
 
I started working on my extra intake today starting to look good I need to get some better bits tho.
 
Last edited:
Where do you guys buy the quick steel at and what model numbers are good to use on the craftsman or dremel grinding stones. I have a dremel so the craftsman ones will work also.
 
I got the quiksteel at Autozone. I don't remember which Dremel bits I used exactly. I know I used the coarse sanding drums more than I used an actual grinding stone bit. Seemed to work better for me. I also used the finishing abrasive buffs at the end. Gave it a nice smooth polished look.

Laser03pro said:
Where do you guys buy the quick steel at and what model numbers are good to use on the craftsman or dremel grinding stones. I have a dremel so the craftsman ones will work also.
 
Yeh I was going to use the coarse sanding drums also I havnt got time to go at it again yet. I kind of want to clean it first before I use the quick steel so I know it sticks good.
 
Oh, yeah, hey... I got your PM, but I've been crazy busy lately, on and off.. The MP3 ecu I picked up was the B type, and they're all just revisions, and very minor. The timing/fuel map remained the same between all three.

And I get my dremel bits here, in bulk: http://www.widgetsupply.com/
 
Has anyone port-matched their head at the same time they do this?
Is it worth it?
 
I matched the intake and exhaust ports to the head. I didn't touch the head.

I'd like to think I noticed a difference but I can't prove anything. It sounded better for sure. I spent a lot of time grinding my headers but who knows if it's worth it. You should probably do it while things are apart anyways. I wouldn't go any bigger than the head, or modify the head.

Something you should do is smooth out all the intake and exhaust runners. Where the flange is welded or cast there's usually a lip you can feel. Grind that smooth. You may not notice a difference, but it's a good thing to do.
 
hey guys i know that the website tells us the main points how to perform the job. but if someone could show me the engine and how to remove it. then what is the job to do exactly with pictures and details, and how everything is done, i would appreciate very much!!

thanks in advance
 
I hate responding to a How-to thread but... For all you guy who used Quik Steel, how did it take to "set?" I filled the holes about 24 hours ago and some parts are still pretty soft. It's been kind of hot an humid hear lately and the IM has been sitting in the dark in the garage if that has anything to do with it...
 
DarKrID3r said:
hey guys i know that the website tells us the main points how to perform the job. but if someone could show me the engine and how to remove it. then what is the job to do exactly with pictures and details, and how everything is done, i would appreciate very much!!

thanks in advance

X2 alot of great info, but still have some questions.
 
Yeah, humidity doesn't help... The surface stays soft for a while, but you can still machine it down, and under that, it'll be harder. YMMV. =)
 
Yea for me the quicksteel hardend in about 60 mins or less. It was really hard when I smoothed it out.

Remove the intake mani wasn't has hard as I thought it would be. I could remove it in like 45 mins now.
 
Black_Protege_5 said:
Yea for me the quicksteel hardend in about 60 mins or less. It was really hard when I smoothed it out.

Remove the intake mani wasn't has hard as I thought it would be. I could remove it in like 45 mins now.

Now I know who to hit up for guidance (thumb)
 
Back