How-To: Take apart and clean HKS SSQV

niv

Member
:
P5t
I bought my ssqv used. Little did I know buddy previously must have had this on a turbod submarine! Geez. I had fluttering noises and didnt know how I had it set. I suspected the piston was sticking a little bitso without further ado.

<o =""></o>Howto:

<o =""></o>Take apart and clean your SSQV.
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Tools needed.<o =""></o>





  1. <o =""></o>3mm allen key
  2. 7/32 wrench
  3. Needle nose pliers
  4. rust removal liquid (all i had was CLR & WD-40)
  5. Lubrication oil
  6. scouring pad
  7. Thread lock (optional)
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Steps:

1. Remove the bolts holding the front surround. (x8)



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2. Remove the bolts holding the back half on.



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a) I read somewhere that if you loosened the screw too much youd mess up the spring. As you will see, it would be rather difficult to do so.<o =""></o>
<o =""></o>b) Removing these are a little time consuming and can be a bit of a pain, but they will come off. I think they have a little thread lock on them.​
<o =""></o>c) I removed the bolts in a alternating pattern till I had only 3 bolts really holding it together, just incase it were to spring open and mess up some internal component. I was just being cautious (nothing wrong with that), but you can see in the pictures what inside looks like.
3. Open the halves

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4. As you can see the spring can come out completely as the cap will nudge right up to the back half once its gone.

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5. Remove spring cap
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6. Remove spring

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7. Push the front of the piston back to lift the rubber gasket away from the metal and youcan have a look into the chamber


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8. Spray some wd-40 on whatever components to clean the gunk off them (I used some C-L-R on the spring and cap and a green scouring pad to get the rust off.)<o =""></o>
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9. Let sit (if you have some rust). Use a scouring pad, or a brush to remove the excess.<o =""></o>
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10. Wipe off the gasket on top and underneath.

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11. Spray some wd-40 on the piston. (I was reading that some high temp resistant lube might be better for this, but I only had wd)
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12. Re-assemble

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To adjust the SSQV: (you'll need 2 - 10mm wrenches)


1. The back screw has two pieces to it. The adjustment bolt itself and the locking nut that keeps it in place.

2. Loosen the nut to allow the adjustment of the bolt.

3. Settings
a)Loosest setting is with the longest amount of bolt seen. More bolt outside the chamber, the less compression on the spring.
---Softer setting means that at lower psi the chamber wil release easier. you'll hear more pssshhh at lower lesser loads.
b)Tightest is with the least. Less bolt showing = more bolt compressing the spring inside
---Tighter setting means that at it takes higher psi to activate the release resulting in less psshh at lower loads, but a higher louder shriek at higher psi.


Hope that's helpful!
 
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Great wirte up! How many mile do you thing yours had when you bought it?
 
might I suggest something? DO NOT use WD-40 when cleaning rust off metal. Use nice oil like something for a gun/rifle. WD-40 eats away at the rust and metal and breaks it apart. I suggest gun oil only cause it works really well and easy to get especially for me cause I have guns and whatnot
 
hmmmm as a canuckle-head, i'm not even sure where i'd find it. :O.... regardless, this is all i had at the time, eventually i'll try to find something better.
 
azeli73 said:
Great wirte up! How many mile do you thing yours had when you bought it?

not so much "miles" but more like "leagues"....lol

(seriousely though.. i have no idea)
 
no. at the tightest setting i was having turbo flutter. (although it may have been just because it needed some lube! heh). now i have mostly the psssshhhhhhh sound, no flutter, and only get the shriek if i'm boosting near my 7psi limit.
 
What I mean to say is does the adjustment screw affect only the sound it makes, or is it performance related?
 
lol. i understood.... my answer was not very enlightening. heh.

1. it affects sound.
2. i believe it affects the performance of the bov yes. (tighter spring setting, primary doesn't open as quickly.)
3. how does that affect turbo? no open = flutter. (so it affects performance of turbo i suppose in long run)
4. overall car performance? *shrug* i dunno... i guess the tighter setting means the the system is holding more boost rather than blowing it all off......

i believe a couple other threads talked about the adjustability allowing msp'ers to be able to run this for some reason or other.
 
Ive got a hks bov on my motor, earlier type i think, but very similer. Its been on my cars for +6 years, so i guess i'll give it a clean. Think its set on a low setting as it dumps at low revs, think i'll give it a tighten and see how it goes.

Cheers, top thread.
 
niv said:
lol. i understood.... my answer was not very enlightening. heh.

1. it affects sound.
2. i believe it affects the performance of the bov yes. (tighter spring setting, primary doesn't open as quickly.)
3. how does that affect turbo? no open = flutter. (so it affects performance of turbo i suppose in long run)
4. overall car performance? *shrug* i dunno... i guess the tighter setting means the the system is holding more boost rather than blowing it all off......

i believe a couple other threads talked about the adjustability allowing msp'ers to be able to run this for some reason or other.

i run a ssqv on my gli, and the looser it was, the easier it blew off (and consequentially the more lag i got between shifts), while with it tigher, i would get compressor surge at low boost levels, but wouldn't experience as much lag between shifts. it also affects sound: looser=more swoosh, less chirp, and tigher=more chirp, less swoosh. i keep mine fairly loose.
 
It's possible to remove the 3 "fins" on the V1 ssqv? I want to install my recirc fitting but I'm not able to remove those fins...
 

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