HOW-TO: Oxygen Sensor Voltage Clamp

I just reinstalled my VC into my new wiring harness that i had to change out when i converted my car to an MTX.

Question is how do i know if the vc is not working? I suspect it might be goofing up because when i first get into boost up to about 4-5psi, its off the scale rich. I have taken all fuel out on the emanage up to that point but it does not help.

I did not have this problem before, in fact it would want to go lean at the onset of boost. I just dont understand why with all 0's in the gas map it would go rich. whats causing it to add the extra gas? Basically its go to be the ecu doing it. Thats why im leaning towards the vc.


I also seen that reading this i might be going to max out my MAF. Any idea at what psi that happens to most people? I'm going to have my EBC set at 20 and 30 as my 2 boost settings. Just have to wait another 400 miles so all the new internals are broke in, then its off to tune to 30psi!
 
eMAnage is GARBAGE
throw that s*** away and get a real engine management.
emanage won't help you do anything
forget boosting 30PSI...

save yourself headaches and get a management system.
 
eMAnage is GARBAGE
throw that s*** away and get a real engine management.
emanage won't help you do anything
forget boosting 30PSI...

save yourself headaches and get a management system.


what do you recommend then? I've been using the emanage for almost 2yrs now, and with my old setup it was dialed in perfectly. Other than this going lean at boost, which i'm pretty sure is not the emanages fault, i've had no problems with it.

I've also used it so much, that i feel comfortable tuning it.
 
ahhh, i thought you were new to emanage...sorry

i'm currently using AFC and i love it.

but hey, if you made your emanage work, maybe you should tell us how you did it!!
 
I'd have to say it was confusing at first, but i joined a yahoo group and the best advice they gave me was to change the value of the AVV rpms in the setup screen to all 0's.

that way i'm not trying to set up the fuel that i want to add or what not based on boost, and then the damn thing would keep wanting to pull or add air at set RPM's.

I use just the fuel and timing maps, dont tune any fuel below boost, and add a few degress timing off boost, with it tapered down to "0" at onset of boost and then used to pull a lot of timing steadily upwards, but now i only pull a max of 6 degrees up to about 15 psi on up. Thats do to the water/methonal injection.

I have started to tune with the air adjustment map, trying to pull more fuel at the low boost level since its running so rich then. But i seriously think there is something wrong with the VC though.

These are "seat of the pants" numbers and listening and watchin A/F's. In about another 400 miles I'll have 1000 miles on the new internals, then I'm off to the dyno for some fine tuning.



So back to my original problem, I'm going to check the voltage from the vc clamp. If its wrong then its telling the car its running WAY to lean and maybe thats why its adding so much damn fuel.

Does anybody know at what A/F the stock 02 sensor will do its 30% fuel pull? I was half thinking to just take off the VC and then just tune for the ecu pulling the fuel in my fuel map. I also do not run my car as rich as most. I want to aim for the low 13's and not the 12's like most. Again, gotta love water methonal. Maybe the stock 02 will not even notice that? And as far as check engine lights, what check engine light! Its in the MIA file with the ABS, Brake and Seat Belt bulbs!
 
i tried nd tried and couldn't get the ignition to work...
the car would run like s***...
i ust gave up...
soon enough i'll have a haltech and forget about al this ..
 
I posted this on TMF a few years ago when I had my boosted auto P5.. it's been a while but I may still abe able to answer some of your questions. Also, see the attached file from Flyin' Miata for details.

Note, this was a MAF and primary O2 sensor voltage clamp.



Tools needed:

10mm socket
Wire strippers
Mityvac
Multimeter
Regular screwdriver
TINY phillips screwdriver

Attached is a file from Flyin' Miata that contains the installation instructions. It's pretty straightforward but I'll go over most of it anyway.

1. The first thing I suggest is calibrating the pressure switch to click over at the right vacuum reading. This varies depending on altitude, so everyone will have different adjustments based on where they live.

If you have a boost/vacuum gauge then you can probably leave this part for later once you have the wiring hooked up and you can start the car again, but I suggest you do it now before the clamp is installed because it's easier. You'll need to get a Mityvac (O'reilly auto parts is where I got mine from) and hook it up to the pressure switch. Slowly get the Mityvac to read between 2-3 in.Hg and adjust the brass screw on the switch until you hear it click. Test it a couple more times with the Mityvac and make sure that you hear the click around 2-3 in.Hg

2. Now it's time to install the clamp. Disconnect the battery, and unplug the ECU. The ECU is located under the glove box, by the passenger's foot area. Pull back the carpet, and remove the 4 10 nuts that hold the plate. Watch your fingers, the plate is SHARP on the sides!!

Now you'll need to go follow the instructions on the last page of the attached Flyin' Miata document. There is a total of 4 wires that need to be spliced off the clamp onto the ECU. I used butt connectors and wire taps, but soldering would be the preferred method (if you know hot solder.. which I don't). Once all the wires are hooked up, you'll need to run a small vacuum line from the intake manifold to the pressure switch. Using a vacuum block will make this a lot easier (you should get one of these, because you'll probably need vacuum lines for other things as well).

3. Reconnect the battery and ECU, and start the car. Let it idle for a few minutes and get out your multimeter. Measure the voltage at the blue wire that you spliced, and confirm that it's between .1-.9 volts. Now remove the vacuum line from the switch, and observe the change in voltage. It should now be a solid number, and we want it to be .3v. If it's not, adjust the small screw inside the voltage clamp until it's at .3v, and repeat the measuring procedure several times. Attach the vacuum line and observe .1-.9v then remove the line and observe .3v.

And that's it for the voltage clamp. The hardest part of adjusting this gizmo is the pressure switch. Using a vacuum/boost gauge makes it a lot harder to precisely tune because you can't hear the click while driving, and it's hard to keep the vacuum at 2-3 in.Hg without breaking the speed limit and possibly crashing cuz you're too focused on the gauge. Get a Mityvac and use it instead!!
 

Attachments

That is good info/instructions, but there is a problem with this. The clamp will make the PCM read lean and add fuel continuously in 1% injector duty cycle increments. These are short term fuel trims. After enough samples at a given MAF reading and RPM, those short term fuel trims become long term fuel trims, and will carry into the open loop tables. They max out somewhere around 25% in either direction.

You will start running seriously rich. Even a stock car will hit 100% duty cycle and the PCM will cut power with fuel trims maxed out, a problem a lot of piggybackers run into. If you have a piggyback, you can modify the MAF signal to lean it out but if you reset the PCM for any reason, your trims will zero out and you'll be incredibly lean and could cause some serious damage.

The SSAFC already has an O2 voltage clamp, and the AEM FIC has a number of options including clamp, offset, table and even a square wave.

Unfortunately there is no value that will cause the PCM to just read stoich and leave fuel alone. That would be wonderful, but no value I gave it caused it to stabilize. It seems to read either rich or lean so it is either pulling or adding fuel all the time in closed loop. What worked best for me is to offset the O2 signal and modify the MAF until the fuel trims were zero'd out.

The only way around this a stand alone or running a stand alone in parallel.
 

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