How-To: Kill Clunk Cheap!!

gotta do this, that damn squeek is KILLING ME!!! i hope this is all i need to rid the dredded squeek!!!
 
i'm not sure if its the awr replacement bushings but lately my car is making a crunching sound in the back while going over bumps (but no clunk)
 
Anyone has the specs for the front bushings trying to find out if awr has replacements for those.
 
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I'm wondering the lifespan on the polly upgrade... There seems to be biased opinions on this stuff.
 
Question for all that have done the bushing fix ...
Im putting AWR rear sway bar bushings on right now and 1 the 2 bolts that mount the bar to the cross member is spining free because the nut that is mounted on the inside of the cross member broke free and there is NOWAY to tighten or loosen the bolt beucase its just spinning freely. Please can someone verify that this is not normal and possible help with a fix idea? Im just supposed to take the 2 bolts off the bushing and replace+lube and thats it. Now this is turning into a 2 hr process for a 30 min job!! I'll never be able to get that bushing mounted and snug unless the bolt has somethig to screw into. HELP.
Thanks
 
If that is the case is there anyway to get a new one in like a opening near it or anything. You could always cut the bolt off and get a new one welded in.
 
thats just it ... the opening is not big enough to allow my hand in there. If so I could out a open end wrench in there and use that to hold it still while I back the bolt out but I just cant. Bolts 1+2 came out just fine ... only the bolt and when I went to the 3rd I had this issue. This cant be normal ... Im thinking about cutting a spot for me to get in there. I just hate the thought of cutting into the X-member
 
hmm, that's weird. i had no problems when i did mine, excepet i had a bit of a hard time getting that bolt out, but an even harder time getting it back in because there's like a 0.001 angle of which the bolt can thread back in. i just cross threaded it back in because i got fed up after 2 hours of messing with it
 
smo0f said:
hmm, that's weird. i had no problems when i did mine, excepet i had a bit of a hard time getting that bolt out, but an even harder time getting it back in because there's like a 0.001 angle of which the bolt can thread back in. i just cross threaded it back in because i got fed up after 2 hours of messing with it

yea I crossthreaded mine too :( I'm not looking forward to messing with that again.
 
quote=gjmoreo]Question for all that have done the bushing fix ...
Im putting AWR rear sway bar bushings on right now and 1 the 2 bolts that mount the bar to the cross member is spining free because the nut that is mounted on the inside of the cross member broke free and there is NOWAY to tighten or loosen the bolt beucase its just spinning freely. Please can someone verify that this is not normal and possible help with a fix idea? Im just supposed to take the 2 bolts off the bushing and replace+lube and thats it. Now this is turning into a 2 hr process for a 30 min job!! I'll never be able to get that bushing mounted and snug unless the bolt has somethig to screw into. HELP.
Thanks[/quote]

Defiantly not normal!

sucks. I have the same problem. Went to change my worn bushings with new one's and on mine, it's the top bolt going into the crossmember that spins freely. I think we are screwed. I dont think there is a way the fix this without replacing the whole crossmember. (Which I may have to do.) I will be taking my car to Tri Point (in 1 week) to see if they have any ideas. But it looks like we have only a few options.

1. Replace crossmember.
2. Cut open crossmember big enough so you can get a wrench on the bolt. (dont want to do this)
3. There is a small factory cut hole located just below the top bolt. I bent up a stiff piece of metal, stuck it in this hole, and wedged against the spinning nut inside the crossmemeber. Then I was able to get a couple of good turns on the good bolt tight until I can get it over to Tri Point. Dont try and remove the bolt completely because there will no way of getting back on without cutting up the crossmember.

Stupid Mazda looks like only spot welded this bolt on, and not a full weld job.
I will let you know if/when I get this fixed.

Hang in there!
 
You guys need some air tools you could cut the bolt off but then you will have the rest of it rattling around inside lol. You might be able to take the cross member off and find a way to get it out then just use a nut with a clip or weld a new one back in.
 
I had one of the welded nuts inside the crosmember break loose when I was installing mine, it was my own fault, anyways, you can get a longer box end in the crossmember and i ran a bolt out from inside the member out. let me know if you need some pictures of how I did this. It is possible and you will not need to replace anything or cut any holes in it, just takes a simple tool and some patience.
o.g.sk8er said:
quote=gjmoreo]Question for all that have done the bushing fix ...
Im putting AWR rear sway bar bushings on right now and 1 the 2 bolts that mount the bar to the cross member is spining free because the nut that is mounted on the inside of the cross member broke free and there is NOWAY to tighten or loosen the bolt beucase its just spinning freely. Please can someone verify that this is not normal and possible help with a fix idea? Im just supposed to take the 2 bolts off the bushing and replace+lube and thats it. Now this is turning into a 2 hr process for a 30 min job!! I'll never be able to get that bushing mounted and snug unless the bolt has somethig to screw into. HELP.
Thanks

Defiantly not normal!

sucks. I have the same problem. Went to change my worn bushings with new one's and on mine, it's the top bolt going into the crossmember that spins freely. I think we are screwed. I dont think there is a way the fix this without replacing the whole crossmember. (Which I may have to do.) I will be taking my car to Tri Point (in 1 week) to see if they have any ideas. But it looks like we have only a few options.

1. Replace crossmember.
2. Cut open crossmember big enough so you can get a wrench on the bolt. (dont want to do this)
3. There is a small factory cut hole located just below the top bolt. I bent up a stiff piece of metal, stuck it in this hole, and wedged against the spinning nut inside the crossmemeber. Then I was able to get a couple of good turns on the good bolt tight until I can get it over to Tri Point. Dont try and remove the bolt completely because there will no way of getting back on without cutting up the crossmember.

Stupid Mazda looks like only spot welded this bolt on, and not a full weld job.
I will let you know if/when I get this fixed.

Hang in there![/QUOTE]
 

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