How to install LEDs in cargo area

CX-5tormtrooper said:
The VLED light strips do have wires attached, the ones in the picture.

I wish I had the technical experience to make the install cleaner and install a fuse but it'll do for now.

Can't wait to see what you come up with.
Click to expand...

That's so awesome. I'm definitely excited now. Probably going to order the 5k temp from them soon (6k is too blue for me). Their prices aren't bad.

I think I'm going to use the same LED placement as you and possibly drill holes into the panels or on the edge of the access panels for a slightly cleaner finish. I think 12" strips on each wheel well and two on the hatch would be plenty of light. I also have the cargo cover, so freestyle's overhead placement wouldn't work. I love how the hatch LED placement can also provide overhead light to the standing area. Super helpful if you drop something. I would then power them up using freestyle's methods on the cig lighter and mercury switch placement.

For reference here's how my p5 looked.
IMG_2721.jpg


IMG_2717.jpg
 
CX-5tormtrooper said:
The set-up is pretty simple, I mounted the tilt switch in the same location as CX-5FREESTYLE. There's a rat-nest of wires behind the outlet panel. I didn't bother trying to clean it, since everything is working fine I didn't want to jinx it by messing with it some more. Cable-management isn't my strong suit, my PC builds can prove that.

I did notice that two ends of two light strips were coming off, I used rubbing alcohol on the panels beforehand, but I fixed it by using https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned). It's very thin so the whole strip still lies flush with the body trim.
Click to expand...

Awesome!
 
deepfriedsushi said:
That's so awesome. I'm definitely excited now. Probably going to order the 5k temp from them soon (6k is too blue for me). Their prices aren't bad.

I think I'm going to use the same LED placement as you and possibly drill holes into the panels or on the edge of the access panels for a slightly cleaner finish. I think 12" strips on each wheel well and two on the hatch would be plenty of light. I also have the cargo cover, so freestyle's overhead placement wouldn't work. I love how the hatch LED placement can also provide overhead light to the standing area. Super helpful if you drop something. I would then power them up using freestyle's methods on the cig lighter and mercury switch placement.

For reference here's how my p5 looked.
Click to expand...

If I was to go with VLEDs, do you know which wires I would tap from the cargo light?
 
Like Freestyle and stormtrooper did, they went off of the cigarette lighter + mercury switch mounted on the hatch. The cigarette lighter in the cargo area and the center console both receive power all the time, even with the car off.

<strike>The built in cargo light of the cx5 is attached to a sensitive module that should not be messed with. In the manual it even instructs owners to unplug the car's battery before removing the cargo light bulb to prevent damage to that module.</strike>
 
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I finally got around to ordering all the supplies to do this project. lol.

Stuff should be here next week and I'm going to try to install the same week or the week after. Also going to attempt a how-to for this. (wiggle)
 
deepfriedsushi said:
The built in cargo light of the cx5 is attached to a sensitive module that should not be messed with. In the manual it even instructs owners to unplug the car's battery before removing the cargo light bulb to prevent damage to that module.
Click to expand...

Where do you see this? In the manual all it says is to disconnect the cable harness to the fixture before replacing the bulb?
 
Phoned - I double checked the manual (pg 6-48) and you're correct. I thought "disconnecting the connector" referred to the battery terminal. For some reason I feel like I read a warning somewhere to be mindful of that module. I have yet to play around with the cargo light itself. Thanks for spotting that.
 
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Yup.. makes sense. Also that thread mentioned them replacing it with an LED bulb?? Maybe that might be why it broke for them as well and why you were thinking it was sensitive.
 
Actually.. you WERE right

The owners manual is WRONG.. here is what the 2014 SERVICE manual says:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. (See NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE DISCONNECTION/CONNECTION [SKYACTIV-G 2.0, SKYACTIV-G 2.5].)
CAUTION:

Always disconnect the negative battery cable before performing the cargo compartment light bulb removal. Otherwise, the circuit may be shorted resulting in damage to the related parts such as the rear body control module (RBCM).
 
Maybe a mix of both. In the service manual for the bulb removal they do not unplug the connector like the manual suggests.

When they remove the whole unit, they show unplugging the connector and do not have the scary warning about the RBCM being damaged.

After all this, I'll probably play it safe and just kill the battery when the time comes to doing the light ;-)
 
Finally got some time over the weekend to do this project. The lights make a ton of difference. I'm super happy with the result.

Final product. Taken with my cell phone with no other sources of light.
IMG_20131117_172853_492_zps23ee114a.jpg


IMG_20131117_172956_498_zps8db35ecf.jpg


This is the best my phone could muster with the the standard cargo light. (hand)
IMG_20131117_172939_110_zpsb26d8f6e.jpg


I added a separate switch, in addition to the mercury switch, and kept the functionality of the cigarette lighter.
IMG_20131117_170708_650_zpsbdc31ee2.jpg


I'll be attempting to make a how to since I snapped a couple pics of how I did this. Coming soon!

Thanks to CX5-Freestyle and CX-5tormTrooper for the inspiration and for sharing the secret ingredient (mercury switch) to make this possible.
 
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I did a similar thing today, but I have only done one side. It is wired into the existing boot light electrics (Trunk light for Americans ;) )

I only had some red heat shrink available, but I may change this :) The strip is adhesive but I have added a couple of cable ties to make sure it does not come loose. You would barely notice these, they are tiny.

This was fairly easy to do and I have fitted proper plugs and sockets internally to the wiring so removal will take seconds if required. I will perform the same mod to the other side when I get time because it makes a massive difference.
Note:- This is a waterproof strip of 12v 5050 warm white LEDS as sold by the metre on auction sites, cut to length. It gives out a lot more light than the pictures show but it was dark so the camera compensated! - I will take another piccy in the daylight with the power to the LED's off.

file-3.jpg


file-2.jpg


file.jpg
 
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phoned said:
Actually.. you WERE right

The owners manual is WRONG.. here is what the 2014 SERVICE manual says:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. (See NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE DISCONNECTION/CONNECTION [SKYACTIV-G 2.0, SKYACTIV-G 2.5].)
CAUTION:

Always disconnect the negative battery cable before performing the cargo compartment light bulb removal. Otherwise, the circuit may be shorted resulting in damage to the related parts such as the rear body control module (RBCM).
Click to expand...


This strikes me as a REALLY stupid design. Replacing the light bulb can cause a short that damages the RBCM???
 
Sorry for the delay guys. I haven't forgotten about it. I have a rough outline of it started already. The end of this year has certainly been busier than I was expecting.

Taking over my company's engineering documentation while the guy in charge is on disability leave doesn't help with things either.
 
dreadly said:
... I have fitted proper plugs and sockets internally to the wiring so removal will take seconds if required. ...
Click to expand...
I am planning something very similar; can you provide more information about these "proper plugs and sockets?" Is there a particular connector style I could ask for at an auto parts shop? If not, I suppose I can remove the light itself and see whether there's anything in the electrical parts or trailer wiring hookups that looks like it would fit to make a nice T connector. Would be great not to have to splice.
 
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