RacingMazda.com Header Setup FAQ/Install/Complete Guide!!!
Ok, here we go, as I attempt to consolidate all questions about the RacingMazda.com headers in one spot as a little FAQ with pictures. First I will post the pics so you can see what I am talking about, then the questions. Hopefully this will alleviate all the pms I have been getting, and will answer some of the questions everyone repeatedly asks Melicha on the group buy of this product. I hope this thread is a bit helpful. If this product stays popular, maybe this can become a sticky, i dunno.
Ok, first the FAQ, then the install instructions/tips.
Q. What comes from RacingMazda.com?
A. You get three pieces - the header (shown above, first picture), the main pipe (seen in the second picture), and the test pipe that eliminates the second cat converter (second picture, towards the back you can see the bolts). You will also get the necessary bolts and washers to install the test pipe, and one gasket for the end of the test pipe closest to the engine. Everything else you use the stock parts with no problems.
Q. Does this product eliminate both cat converters?
A. Yes, although a high-flow cat could be welded to the test pipe, or you could opt not to install the test pipe. HOWEVER, you will lose at least one cat with this setup. In the pictures, I lost both cats.
Q. Will these headers pass emissions?
A. This depends on several factors. First off, if you have a VISUAL inspection of your car as part of the inspection process, this product will in no way pass emissions, due to the fact that you will have at least one cat converter missing, and all cars are required to have at least two. If you do not have a visual inspection, but have an exhaust sniffer, you will fail with both cats removed. I can say this for sure, even though I don't have emissions in Oklahoma because I can smell the exhaust and sometimes see it. If you have both cats removed, and a cop is sitting behind you, and you are in a pain in the ass state (like CA), you could very well be pulled over.
Q. Will I get a CEL (Check Engine Light)?
A. Although Ric from RacingMazda says that some people get CELs and some don't, I sure did, after about 200 miles. I can almost garuntee that you will get a CEL with both cats gone, and still almost garuntee you will get a CEL even with one cat removed. If this concerns you (I'm not too concerned, lol) you can purchase a CEL fix from http://www.ponyexpressperformance.com/wrxmileliminator.html or from Apex Motorsports in Tempe, AZ. This CEL fix will eliminate the CEL by putting the catalyst into "not ready" mode...HOWEVER, this will NOT, I repeat, NOT fix the emissions problem.
Q. How loud is this exhaust?
A. I am going to post sound/video clips by the end of the weekend, but let's just say with CAI, RacingMazda setup, and HKS rear section, with no cats, it sounds like a Harley (or louder). If you plan on sneaking around, or even if the cops are very sensitive about noise ordinances in your area, you might want to either 1) reconsider this mod altogether, 2) consider a high-flow cat or resonator instead of the plain test pipe, or 3) find yourself a good silencer (the one that came with my HKS exhaust doesn't help much).
UPDATE: here is the sound clip/video thread...i dont think you can really guage the sound, but you can get an idea: http://www.protege5.com/vbb225/showthread.php?s=&threadid=28784&highlight=racingmazda
Q. What kind of gains will I see from this setup?
A. I have not dynoed this setup, but I can say that in the higher RPM range (3-5k), I noticed quite a difference with my CAI and HKS exhaust. I can really notice if I'm cruising in 5th gear, and drop to 3rd to pass someone. I think you'll be satisfied with the HP gains for the money.
UPDATE: with the CEL fix from Apex Motorsports, the RPMs seem to climb even more!
Q. What's the deal with this "limp mode" I've heard about?
A. "Limp mode" refers to your car throwing a CEL due to the cats, and running like utter s*** because the computer doesn't know what to do.
UPDATE: Your car will blow by gas without the CEL fix! I was getting 300mi to the TANK before the CEL fix. I need to do an average over the next few weeks on new fuel usage.
Q. How hard/long is the install?
A. It took me about 3 hours, for several reasons, explained in the install section. You could probably do it in 1.5-2 hours depending on your skill level, access to tools, and work area. The install itself is not hard, and only requires you to bolt and un-bolt parts.
INSTALLATION:
NOTES: The install for me took a lot longer than expected, for several reasons. First, I work on my car at a garage on the Army post where I work, so I had to drive there, meaning my engine and exhaust were both SCALDING hot once I got there. Since I can't work in my apartment complex, this was unavoidable. This factor alone caused me to slow down, because some of the bolts were so hot i had to un-bolt them all the way with the socket instead of finishing with my fingers. Also, I did this install completely by myself. Believe me when I say it looked like I was playing twister under the car trying to get the test pipe on right. If you have someone help you this install will be much quicker.
Equipment needed: 10mm-15mm sockets (I cant remember all the exact sizes, but none bigger than 15 or smaller than 10 i dont think), socket wrench, socket extension, rags. You'll also need a wrench (i think 14mm) to take the spring-tight bolts off. 24mm Wrench, Adjustable wrench.
NEW INFO!!! - Dont be dumbass like me - CLEAN THE SHIOT outta the headers before you install them, and try not to finger **** them during the install. this will keep them from getting the fingerprints burned into them once you start up the car.
Steps (excuse me if I miss some parts or cant remember some parts as I'm doing this from memory one week from install, but this will help you install pretty easily). This is the order I did it, you may be able to do it faster another way, but I had to deal with a hot engine:
1. Disconnect both o2 sensors by unhooking them from the harness first, then using a 24mm wrench to unscrew them (if you dont disconnect them first, the wires keep twisting and its a pain in the ass). Dont touch the o2 sensors themselves, and set them somewhere safe. Also you will need to remove the two metal hooks keeping the wire away from the stock manifold.
2. Un-bolt the elbow piece from underneath the stock pre-cat. Remove this piece. You will re-use the 2 bolt gasket. Note: I think it is on this part, there are two bolts with big springs behind them. Use a socket and wrench and put some ass into it, theyll come loose eventually.
3. Un-bolt the second cat converter with pipe, then push towards the engine to get it out of the rubber hanging mounts. WD-40 helps this process quite a bit. The reason you took out the elbow first is because it would be a pain to remove this pipe with the elbow in the way. Now you only have the stock exhaust manifold and the precat connected.
4. Unbolt the heat shield, and unscrew the EGR valve (top metal copper colored pipe coming from the right side of the engine)...
5. Unbolt the stock exhaust manifold and remove it and the pre-cat. Keep the metal gaskets to the engine, youll be re-using them. Now you just have the engine and no piping until about midway down the length of your car.
6. This is the tricky part. The EGR valve is too long or the bung that it plugs into on the RM headers is too long, but either way, its a wierd fit. If they arent lined up perfectly, the bolt wont tighten properlly. It will seem like its going to tighten, then go real loose. This took me about 30 minutes alone to get right. The best way I found to do it was to bolt up the EGR valve with the header BEFORE bolting the header to the engine. You might have to tug on the pipe a little also. This is also where it would help to have someone helping you. Once you get it connected snuggly...
7. Bolt in the header. I'm sure there are torque specs somewhere for this step, but to be honest, I forgot my shop manual that day, and so I just tightened the bolts pretty hard (just remember about how hard they are to break), but not to the point where I was concerned about damaging the gaskets. I really wouldn't worry about specific torque, but that's your call...no problems here, so you could prolly take my word
8. After you get the header bolted in, the next piece you want to do is the main pipe. Bolt that to the bottom of the header, and hang it on the rubber hangers. Again, I'm sure there are torque specs, but I just did the piping as tight as I could get it.
9. This is also tricky if you are by yourself. I used an extra jack stand to hold up the back part of the exhaust and the front pipe we just installed (after struggling for 30 min trying to do it without the jack stands). Put in the test pipe with ONE washer on EACH side of the pipe. If you put both washers on one side, when you get real tight, the end of the bolts will squeeze through the holds of the one side of the pipe...that was bad...
10. Reconnect the o2 sensors. Make sure you come up with some way to keep that wire away from those headers. Me, I didnt do anything fancy, just hooked the wire into a little fitting that was already present. It's common sense, youll figure it out.
11. Start it up, expect a cloud of smoke, and if youre in a garage, by all means, make sure its ventilated!!!
I appreciate all comments on this post, I spent a lot of time putting it together, so try not to flame
Ok, here we go, as I attempt to consolidate all questions about the RacingMazda.com headers in one spot as a little FAQ with pictures. First I will post the pics so you can see what I am talking about, then the questions. Hopefully this will alleviate all the pms I have been getting, and will answer some of the questions everyone repeatedly asks Melicha on the group buy of this product. I hope this thread is a bit helpful. If this product stays popular, maybe this can become a sticky, i dunno.
Ok, first the FAQ, then the install instructions/tips.
Q. What comes from RacingMazda.com?
A. You get three pieces - the header (shown above, first picture), the main pipe (seen in the second picture), and the test pipe that eliminates the second cat converter (second picture, towards the back you can see the bolts). You will also get the necessary bolts and washers to install the test pipe, and one gasket for the end of the test pipe closest to the engine. Everything else you use the stock parts with no problems.
Q. Does this product eliminate both cat converters?
A. Yes, although a high-flow cat could be welded to the test pipe, or you could opt not to install the test pipe. HOWEVER, you will lose at least one cat with this setup. In the pictures, I lost both cats.
Q. Will these headers pass emissions?
A. This depends on several factors. First off, if you have a VISUAL inspection of your car as part of the inspection process, this product will in no way pass emissions, due to the fact that you will have at least one cat converter missing, and all cars are required to have at least two. If you do not have a visual inspection, but have an exhaust sniffer, you will fail with both cats removed. I can say this for sure, even though I don't have emissions in Oklahoma because I can smell the exhaust and sometimes see it. If you have both cats removed, and a cop is sitting behind you, and you are in a pain in the ass state (like CA), you could very well be pulled over.
Q. Will I get a CEL (Check Engine Light)?
A. Although Ric from RacingMazda says that some people get CELs and some don't, I sure did, after about 200 miles. I can almost garuntee that you will get a CEL with both cats gone, and still almost garuntee you will get a CEL even with one cat removed. If this concerns you (I'm not too concerned, lol) you can purchase a CEL fix from http://www.ponyexpressperformance.com/wrxmileliminator.html or from Apex Motorsports in Tempe, AZ. This CEL fix will eliminate the CEL by putting the catalyst into "not ready" mode...HOWEVER, this will NOT, I repeat, NOT fix the emissions problem.
Q. How loud is this exhaust?
A. I am going to post sound/video clips by the end of the weekend, but let's just say with CAI, RacingMazda setup, and HKS rear section, with no cats, it sounds like a Harley (or louder). If you plan on sneaking around, or even if the cops are very sensitive about noise ordinances in your area, you might want to either 1) reconsider this mod altogether, 2) consider a high-flow cat or resonator instead of the plain test pipe, or 3) find yourself a good silencer (the one that came with my HKS exhaust doesn't help much).
UPDATE: here is the sound clip/video thread...i dont think you can really guage the sound, but you can get an idea: http://www.protege5.com/vbb225/showthread.php?s=&threadid=28784&highlight=racingmazda
Q. What kind of gains will I see from this setup?
A. I have not dynoed this setup, but I can say that in the higher RPM range (3-5k), I noticed quite a difference with my CAI and HKS exhaust. I can really notice if I'm cruising in 5th gear, and drop to 3rd to pass someone. I think you'll be satisfied with the HP gains for the money.
UPDATE: with the CEL fix from Apex Motorsports, the RPMs seem to climb even more!
Q. What's the deal with this "limp mode" I've heard about?
A. "Limp mode" refers to your car throwing a CEL due to the cats, and running like utter s*** because the computer doesn't know what to do.
UPDATE: Your car will blow by gas without the CEL fix! I was getting 300mi to the TANK before the CEL fix. I need to do an average over the next few weeks on new fuel usage.
Q. How hard/long is the install?
A. It took me about 3 hours, for several reasons, explained in the install section. You could probably do it in 1.5-2 hours depending on your skill level, access to tools, and work area. The install itself is not hard, and only requires you to bolt and un-bolt parts.
INSTALLATION:
NOTES: The install for me took a lot longer than expected, for several reasons. First, I work on my car at a garage on the Army post where I work, so I had to drive there, meaning my engine and exhaust were both SCALDING hot once I got there. Since I can't work in my apartment complex, this was unavoidable. This factor alone caused me to slow down, because some of the bolts were so hot i had to un-bolt them all the way with the socket instead of finishing with my fingers. Also, I did this install completely by myself. Believe me when I say it looked like I was playing twister under the car trying to get the test pipe on right. If you have someone help you this install will be much quicker.
Equipment needed: 10mm-15mm sockets (I cant remember all the exact sizes, but none bigger than 15 or smaller than 10 i dont think), socket wrench, socket extension, rags. You'll also need a wrench (i think 14mm) to take the spring-tight bolts off. 24mm Wrench, Adjustable wrench.
NEW INFO!!! - Dont be dumbass like me - CLEAN THE SHIOT outta the headers before you install them, and try not to finger **** them during the install. this will keep them from getting the fingerprints burned into them once you start up the car.
Steps (excuse me if I miss some parts or cant remember some parts as I'm doing this from memory one week from install, but this will help you install pretty easily). This is the order I did it, you may be able to do it faster another way, but I had to deal with a hot engine:
1. Disconnect both o2 sensors by unhooking them from the harness first, then using a 24mm wrench to unscrew them (if you dont disconnect them first, the wires keep twisting and its a pain in the ass). Dont touch the o2 sensors themselves, and set them somewhere safe. Also you will need to remove the two metal hooks keeping the wire away from the stock manifold.
2. Un-bolt the elbow piece from underneath the stock pre-cat. Remove this piece. You will re-use the 2 bolt gasket. Note: I think it is on this part, there are two bolts with big springs behind them. Use a socket and wrench and put some ass into it, theyll come loose eventually.
3. Un-bolt the second cat converter with pipe, then push towards the engine to get it out of the rubber hanging mounts. WD-40 helps this process quite a bit. The reason you took out the elbow first is because it would be a pain to remove this pipe with the elbow in the way. Now you only have the stock exhaust manifold and the precat connected.
4. Unbolt the heat shield, and unscrew the EGR valve (top metal copper colored pipe coming from the right side of the engine)...
5. Unbolt the stock exhaust manifold and remove it and the pre-cat. Keep the metal gaskets to the engine, youll be re-using them. Now you just have the engine and no piping until about midway down the length of your car.
6. This is the tricky part. The EGR valve is too long or the bung that it plugs into on the RM headers is too long, but either way, its a wierd fit. If they arent lined up perfectly, the bolt wont tighten properlly. It will seem like its going to tighten, then go real loose. This took me about 30 minutes alone to get right. The best way I found to do it was to bolt up the EGR valve with the header BEFORE bolting the header to the engine. You might have to tug on the pipe a little also. This is also where it would help to have someone helping you. Once you get it connected snuggly...
7. Bolt in the header. I'm sure there are torque specs somewhere for this step, but to be honest, I forgot my shop manual that day, and so I just tightened the bolts pretty hard (just remember about how hard they are to break), but not to the point where I was concerned about damaging the gaskets. I really wouldn't worry about specific torque, but that's your call...no problems here, so you could prolly take my word
8. After you get the header bolted in, the next piece you want to do is the main pipe. Bolt that to the bottom of the header, and hang it on the rubber hangers. Again, I'm sure there are torque specs, but I just did the piping as tight as I could get it.
9. This is also tricky if you are by yourself. I used an extra jack stand to hold up the back part of the exhaust and the front pipe we just installed (after struggling for 30 min trying to do it without the jack stands). Put in the test pipe with ONE washer on EACH side of the pipe. If you put both washers on one side, when you get real tight, the end of the bolts will squeeze through the holds of the one side of the pipe...that was bad...
10. Reconnect the o2 sensors. Make sure you come up with some way to keep that wire away from those headers. Me, I didnt do anything fancy, just hooked the wire into a little fitting that was already present. It's common sense, youll figure it out.
11. Start it up, expect a cloud of smoke, and if youre in a garage, by all means, make sure its ventilated!!!
I appreciate all comments on this post, I spent a lot of time putting it together, so try not to flame
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