How To: Install Amp Wiring Kit
- Thread starter derrick1623
- Start date
That part really easy. The door sill pops right off with some force. The kickpanel has one or two button fasteners (use your fingernail or a small flat blade screwdriver to pop out the center) and just pulls off. In the back (for the Protege5 at least) if any panels are overlapping you need to remove the one on top first because there are a few hidden fasteners.
It can be done so quickly I'm not sure anyone has taken the time to highlight the process.
It can be done so quickly I'm not sure anyone has taken the time to highlight the process.
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- 2017 SG Ford Focus RS -- 2003 Protege 5 -- 2016 Ford Expedition
chuyler1 said:
I fit a 4 gauge powerwire down the drivers side, If I think about it, I'll pull up my drivers side carpet, it was easier for me to find on the inside. My only issue was finding a good spot for my inline-fusebox to attach to (i've always been told to put the fuse between 12 and 18 inches from the battery, but I can't think of any electrical properties the requires me to do so)
How about an electrical fire maybe? You want as much of the wire to be protected by a fuse as possible.
Here is a great place to put your fuse box...
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=19372
Here is a great place to put your fuse box...
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=19372
Chiguy_2002 said:
Not sure if anybody has run across this ever but I did the same thing. Hindsight I would have gone through the battery side but i didn't read this whole thread till after the damage was done.
Anyway I tried a lot of frustrating pain in the ass approaches and finally found one that worked to get the grommet back in.
1. You have to take the ecu cover off. It's the big metal plate directly below the grommet. I took my ecu off the plate so it wouldn't gash my hands working under there but you might not need to. The point is to give the big ass loom some play so you can line up the grommet.
2. I pushed the wires up from the inside so that the gromet basically sat parallel to the firewall on the outside. I had to prop them up with something just to hold them there till i got a look from outside
To make room to work with you have to move the cruise control, i just disconnected the plugs took the 3 10m nuts off and set it on top the block. Lift the bottle that is about the size of a coke can off its holder and just let it dangle there. it isn't heavy at all. You should be able to get one arm all the way down so you can feel around the grommet and have enough room to get another hand in there to hand you crap.
3. Tape off a flat head screwdriver so that it has a pretty blunt tip. you want it to be thin but you don't want it to push through the grommet rubber.
4. Spray down the grommet rim with WD40 or whatever.
5. Put the screwdriver tip in between the inner rubber that surrounds all the wires and the big lip that edges the grommet. should be about an inch deep gap between there. Make sure you have a good spot that won't slip and shove the screwdriver towards the hole where the gromet goes. I worked on the side closest to me and the rim that goes on the inside finally caught enough where I could take the screwdriver out and do the same thing on the other side.
6. Wait for the beautiful sound of a lubed up giant ass grommet slapping back into it's hole.
7. Never mess with that grommet again.
what is the voltage that the remote wire sends to the amp? is it a 12v signal? or smaller?
Ive ran power harnesses in many cars now, and the power line should always be on the side of the battery, audio on the opposite side. Its best to have the leasst amount of energized cable running through your car as possible, i drill my own hole in the firewall, and plug it with a grommet, and silicon sealant, just be careful, and know where your drilling lol.
Ive ran power harnesses in many cars now, and the power line should always be on the side of the battery, audio on the opposite side. Its best to have the leasst amount of energized cable running through your car as possible, i drill my own hole in the firewall, and plug it with a grommet, and silicon sealant, just be careful, and know where your drilling lol.
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- 03 Mazda PR5
hey chuyler1, i ran my amp wire through that same spot where the grommet is quite a while ago, probably about 5 months or so.. and me being the smart one threw out the grommet and i just realized it when i was cleaning my engine bay and i have a hole with my 4 gauge amp wire running through it...
any suggestions on where to get a replacement grommet so i can properly cut out a hole in it and run the wire through there?
any suggestions on where to get a replacement grommet so i can properly cut out a hole in it and run the wire through there?
The only place I can think of would be the dealer. It's a pretty big grommet so its not something you are going to find at your local hardware store.
You should never run a power wire (or any wire for that matter) through a metal hole without using a grommet. As the wire rubs against the metal over time it could wear down the protective sheath and eventually short out against the car, possibly causing a fire under your dash.
You should never run a power wire (or any wire for that matter) through a metal hole without using a grommet. As the wire rubs against the metal over time it could wear down the protective sheath and eventually short out against the car, possibly causing a fire under your dash.
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- 03 Mazda PR5
awesome!(peep) haha ill have to go to the dealership today and see if i can get the part.. thanks for the response
What gauge wire are you running? I was able to sqeeze 4ga beside the factory wire loom. I just zip tied it to the factory wiring every 6-8" and the door sill popped right back on afterwards.
If you are running 0ga or really need to get under that carpet you can just cut the white clip. Replace it with zip ties afterwards.
On the passenger side, I sqeezed 2 CeNet cables, 2 optical cables, and 3 pairs of speaker wire...
If you are running 0ga or really need to get under that carpet you can just cut the white clip. Replace it with zip ties afterwards.
On the passenger side, I sqeezed 2 CeNet cables, 2 optical cables, and 3 pairs of speaker wire...
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You are rad. Thanks so much for the picture. I hadn't even thought of that because I wanted a "clean" install. So let's say you were running those speaker wires (or an 8 gauge power cable down the driver's side) to an amp underneath the front seat. Would you just slit the carpet with a razor, run it underneath, and then slit the carpet again where the wire needs to come up and attach to the amp? Thanks.
I'm modifying an existing install where my power and RCA cables ran too close together. I was getting annoying alternator whine. I'm attempting to get rid of that by running this stuff FAR apart (i.e., driver's side door jam for the power and passenger side door jam for RCAs).
I'm modifying an existing install where my power and RCA cables ran too close together. I was getting annoying alternator whine. I'm attempting to get rid of that by running this stuff FAR apart (i.e., driver's side door jam for the power and passenger side door jam for RCAs).
For running wires under the seat, I just ran them to the pilar panel and then slid them down from there without lifting or cutting the carpet. I have my CD changer under there. I wrapped the wires in loom like you see in the photo so it looks factory. Unless I pointed it out you would never see it.
I consider it low-impact stereo installation. You know like low-impact camping. Don't do anything that you can't reverse if and when you sell the car.
...but I kinda broke that rule when I drilled holes in my A-pillars to install tweeters. Oh well.
I consider it low-impact stereo installation. You know like low-impact camping. Don't do anything that you can't reverse if and when you sell the car.
...but I kinda broke that rule when I drilled holes in my A-pillars to install tweeters. Oh well.
When you install amps, do you run another power cable from amp ground to the car battery's negative terminal? So far, I've been grounding to the chassis, sanding away a part of it and using a self-drilling metal screw. I've checked with a voltmeter and my ground seems good. But I still get some alternator whine.
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- 2017 SG Ford Focus RS -- 2003 Protege 5 -- 2016 Ford Expedition
try to keep my grounds as short as possible, not only running another 8/4/0 guage wire back up front give you more of a chance to induce noise, but it increases fire risk and can get really expensive...
well...i have some in put and some questions....
input:
...and that is still well within the 18" mark
question:
i am going to be buying a amp and a sub.... now i want to do a minimally invasive procedure.....i am going to make my own box and everything but im not sure where im am going to put it....any ideas....and i also want to still have use of my whole "trunk"
input:
question:
i am going to be buying a amp and a sub.... now i want to do a minimally invasive procedure.....i am going to make my own box and everything but im not sure where im am going to put it....any ideas....and i also want to still have use of my whole "trunk"
