How to fix ALL SPUTTER ISSUES!!!

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driver311

Member
:
08 speed 3
I decided to put it all in one thread. After alot of time and work I think I have this figured out. Here it is simple as I can put it.

Boost cut fix= map clamp, clamped at 3-3.5v

Fuel cut fix= cdfp, either pg, cpe

spark sputter fix= NGK LTR7IX-11 (1 step colder) gapped at .030 and coil wire stretch.

Ill add one more thing that was just addressed in another thread that I overlooked and agree with completely. Replace all your hose clamps with t-bolt clamps and make sure all are tightened and sealed. Boost leaks are your enemy on all cars boosted especially maf cars.

My car has zero issues with any kind of cut/sputter right now and is pulling all the way to 6500rpms. Temps where I live is around 10-30 degrees and Im running 20+psi all day long. I hope this will help alot of people better understand what issues we are having with the car and how to fix them. Enjoy
 
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did you try a higher clamp voltage ? i am at like 3.9V right now, but i also still get cut, maybe thats where the fuel pump comes in ?? or do you think i need to turn my voltage down. the plugs make sense and i will be getting some soon. let me ask this though. what do you mean by "coil wire stretch" i have never heard of that before.
 
Nig, there are like 4 map clamp threads already. Just search it, since its been discussed quite a bit in December.
 
tru-boost said:
did you try a higher clamp voltage ? i am at like 3.9V right now, but i also still get cut, maybe thats where the fuel pump comes in ?? or do you think i need to turn my voltage down. the plugs make sense and i will be getting some soon. let me ask this though. what do you mean by "coil wire stretch" i have never heard of that before.
Click to expand...

the coil springs coming out the bottom of the coil packs are what make contact to the top of the spark plugs, by stretching them a little more pressure is applied thus a better electrical connection.
 
A pretty substantial voltage drop has been logged by a few members of the other forum. Not only at wot, but also in that 2500-2800rpm range right where the lean spot seems to happen. I believe the low spot is happening because the open loop and closed loop programs overlap for a slight moment, but there's not really a way to test that or fix that currently. For the top end though it is a common problem for "high" end cars that were designed with cost-effective engineering in mind. So many things are drawing alot of current and the system just maxes out. Once the system is maxed out, and the injectors, spark plugs, spill valve, ect... keep demanding more power, other things will be drawn short. One reason I think this could be the case is the temp. factor. The temp. sensors pass higher voltage to the ecu as the temps. go down. This would in turn cause a voltage drop (if this is the case) to occur sooner and more frequently than it would with warmer temps. Another thing that points in that direction is the whole tuning with an upgraded cdfp thing. With no active tune, the standback doesn't draw alot of current. However, once you start adjusting things, it will need more juice to do the things you want it to do. Thus, when you have the fuel physically capable of being there, the ecu keeps raising the amount of power being sent to the injectors, spark plugs, spill valve, ect... and then the standback is telling it to do this, that, and the other, you'll deffinately be demanding alot more from the system than it was originally designed to do. That would explain Dadasracecar's bad results and laloosh having to zero out his tune. This could be the root cause of the studdering issue, and the fuel cut, and the boost cut (whatever you mean by that). If our electrical system is actually sitting on the edge, then these "slight" things would cause such problems. Not 100% possitive, but it's worth looking into.
 
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well I tested my intank fp all through the rpms with a voltage meter for a whole day. never once did I see the voltage drop below 12v. I made atleast 10 wot pulls through the gears and it held strong everytime.

This voltage problem u speak of happens to srts. they drop as low as 9v at wot. A fuel pump rewire delivers from .3 to .8 points of fuel on a wideband. Ptp sells the rewire and it straight to the alternator. On the last srt i was tuning it made all the difference. Car went from 12.0 afrs to 11.5 afrs at wot.
 
driver311 said:
well I tested my intank fp all through the rpms with a voltage meter for a whole day. never once did I see the voltage drop below 12v. I made atleast 10 wot pulls through the gears and it held strong everytime.

This voltage problem u speak of happens to srts. they drop as low as 9v at wot. A fuel pump rewire delivers from .3 to .8 points of fuel on a wideband. Ptp sells the rewire and it straight to the alternator. On the last srt i was tuning it made all the difference. Car went from 12.0 afrs to 11.5 afrs at wot.
Click to expand...

Well, a voltage drop (if it occurs) would only need to be for a tiny fraction of a second to cause a problem. Did you happen to be looking at the voltmeter right when a fuel cut happened? It would really need to be logged with a reliable system during a fuel cut event to completely rule it out. With that said, more than one member on the other forum have shown evidence that voltage is in fact falling short, however it is still unknown what all is being effected. It's not necessarily the itfp either. It could be one of the numberous sensors, the spill valve, the rail pressure regulator, ect... According to a guy at Mazda, the alt. on these motors is the same one that they used on the 2.3na. This worries me a little since some of those guys have had alt. problems with nothing more than some gauges and a system.
 
That's the problem. There was a high output one available from the rpm store about a year ago, but it's down now, probably from lack of interest. I may give them a call this week. I just seems like we should work to find the actual cause of all these problems, rather than ways around them. After working on srts, you should know that's the only way to really get anywhere with an under-designed car.
 
I just think you will see any benefit from 12.2v to 14v. Possibly but little to none is my guess. Its worth a shot though. My car doesnt seem to be having any more issues. We will see tomorrow what it looks like on paper.
 
First of all hello. I am a proud owner of a mazda CX-7 and I have the cp-e cai and the catback from corksport with the cat removed. And I have noticed on two different occasions what I think is the fuel cut sputter you guys describe. It has happened to me on two different days when it was raining non stop and the temp outside had dropped a bit. I say only a bit because I live in Puerto Rico and it never drops too much here.

I was driving and I decided to punch the gas a bit so the car downshifted to 3rd and of course the rpms got high and then all I felt was a vroom (nothing), vroom (nothing). I am guessing with only these 2 mods fuel cut should be out of the question and maybe it has to do with the spark plugs.

Please help me in deciding what I should do to fix this. Thanks in advance.
 
aliencx7 said:
First of all hello. I am a proud owner of a mazda CX-7 and I have the cp-e cai and the catback from corksport with the cat removed. And I have noticed on two different occasions what I think is the fuel cut sputter you guys describe. It has happened to me on two different days when it was raining non stop and the temp outside had dropped a bit. I say only a bit because I live in Puerto Rico and it never drops too much here.

I was driving and I decided to punch the gas a bit so the car downshifted to 3rd and of course the rpms got high and then all I felt was a vroom (nothing), vroom (nothing). I am guessing with only these 2 mods fuel cut should be out of the question and maybe it has to do with the spark plugs.

Please help me in deciding what I should do to fix this. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

Ensure your Turbo Inlet Pipe clamp is tight. You should not have any sputter at all with your mods. Check all your Turbo connections and make sure they are tight.
 
in about 2 weeks I will be doing install of a few bolt ons and hopefully catching up to you guys! you can bet your balls that i am going to be checking all of these little things, changing plugs, and pulling on the coil springs :)
 
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