What? just run the lines properly and it won't leak... You have coolant lines everywhere already, they don't leak do they? (hand)
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How To: EGR Removal and Cleaning for Rough Idle Fix
- Thread starter 122 Vega
- Start date
What? just run the lines properly and it won't leak... You have coolant lines everywhere already, they don't leak do they? (hand)
Did someone say that the Canadian ones have coolant lines, because mine doesn't have coolant lines..?
Ya, Canadian (original VIN Canadian) P5's should have a different EGR. With 2-3 coolant lines routed in & out.
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- '03.5 Blazin' MSP (sold) ................. '14 Soul 6 GT
Is resetting the ECM as simple as disconnecting the battery?
Then step on the brake to discharge the remaining power.
02Protege'5
Member
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- '02 P5
or take the positive and negative terminal off and hold them together for a few seconds
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- 2003.5 MP5 Laser Blue Automatic (SOLD)
I would never do this as there may be capacitors installed for amplifiers and those could get damaged or blow a fuse if you short them. stepping on the brake or turning on the lights should be enough to drain whatever is left.or take the positive and negative terminal off and hold them together for a few seconds
02Protege'5
Member
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- '02 P5
ok, so as long as you don't have a capacitor installed, you can do this. I don't, and do it all the time with no ill effects.
I would never do this as there may be capacitors installed for amplifiers and those could get damaged or blow a fuse if you short them. stepping on the brake or turning on the lights should be enough to drain whatever is left.
I just cleaned my egr, but I still have a rough idle.. I am not sure if it is the same problem everyone else is having. When I am sitting at a light it will kick sometimes, and during acceleration up to about 25mph it hesitates. I don't have an unusually high or low idle it just kicks. Any ideas where to start to fix this? Oh and I am not throwing any codes.
Do you have a boost gauge? If not, get one. Your vac should read at about 23, if not you have a leak. Check your waste gate by blowing into the line that goes into the waste gate. If you can pass air through it then the diaphragm is toast and you need a new one, and that is your problem. If not, check for leaks in all of the vac lines. There may be a crack or a loose connection in a vac line or a coupler along the tubing from the intercooler and turbo and throttle body. If you are running stock plastic pipes, check the hot pipe which goes from the top of the side mount intercooler to the turbo. The connection there sometimes dislodges.
I just cleaned my egr, but I still have a rough idle.. I am not sure if it is the same problem everyone else is having. When I am sitting at a light it will kick sometimes, and during acceleration up to about 25mph it hesitates. I don't have an unusually high or low idle it just kicks. Any ideas where to start to fix this? Oh and I am not throwing any codes.
Two things to check or replace:
1) Do you have one or multiple amps running when this happens? They could be putting a very heavy load on your electrical system. If not you should get your alternator checked out. It may not be providing sufficient current constantly.
2) Replace your ignition coils and spark plug wires. I had the same problem as you even after cleaning the s*** out of my EGR twice and once in a while my car would even throw cylinder misfire CELs. I replaced my wires with NGK and ignition coils with BWD and my car is silky smooth. On a related note, my oil consumption has also been reduced dramatically but it may be too premature to say for sure.
POLARBEARsMP3
Member
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- mazda protege mp3
just done mine today man what a difference
BeefSupreme
Member
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- Mazda Protege5
Thanks for the write up! I bought an 03 protege5 w/90k on it. Had all belts changed several weeks after purchasing, drove for a couple weeks. Changed air filter and plugs and started getting misfires with code P0300 shortly after. It took me long enough to figure out what was going on that I started getting code P0421 too. Tried to clean the EGR and noticed misfires were fewer and far between, but still happening. Swapped in a new one and no more misfires and no more P0300. But P0421 was still getting thrown. I sucked it up and swapped out the first cat this weekend. The old cat was melted from all the misfiring. So far - no codes and it's driving much smoother when warm. I'm still having the hesitant acceleration that jlt012 mentioned above when the engine is cold. It kicks at ~2800 rpm in the first 3 gears. I hope this isn't yet another issue!
Lesson: P0300 getting thrown? Clean or swap the EGR like NOW!
Lesson: P0300 getting thrown? Clean or swap the EGR like NOW!
BeefSupreme
Member
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- Mazda Protege5
You gotta be flipping kidding me. My PR5 misfired again this morning, 5 days after I changed the first cat. And probably a month after I replaced the EGR. Code P0300. WTH?
The screws aren't made of swiss cheese, they're just not meant for your tool.
To open the EGR valve, or remove the IAC for that matter, purchase a JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) bit set. All of the phillips screws on a Mazda are NOT technically phillips-head screws, they're JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard), which requires a wider, less pointy bit to avoid stripping out the head. JIS bits are almost square at the tip, so on these screws they'll engage the screw head completely. Use your normal, North American Phillips screwdriver, and it'll work only if the screw isn't fully torqued down, or isn't oxidized in place. Either way the JIS bits are a great investment of a few bucks to save a whole bunch of time working on Japanese vehicles (especially motorcycles).
I picked up mine at a local tool discounter- got a set that included and hex bits, and have never looked back.
I strongly suspect that many of the users reporting trouble a few thousand miles after cleaning the EGR are victims of this difference in screwdrivers. It won't let torque the screw down as far as it should go, and you'll get leaks.
To open the EGR valve, or remove the IAC for that matter, purchase a JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) bit set. All of the phillips screws on a Mazda are NOT technically phillips-head screws, they're JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard), which requires a wider, less pointy bit to avoid stripping out the head. JIS bits are almost square at the tip, so on these screws they'll engage the screw head completely. Use your normal, North American Phillips screwdriver, and it'll work only if the screw isn't fully torqued down, or isn't oxidized in place. Either way the JIS bits are a great investment of a few bucks to save a whole bunch of time working on Japanese vehicles (especially motorcycles).
I picked up mine at a local tool discounter- got a set that included and hex bits, and have never looked back.
I strongly suspect that many of the users reporting trouble a few thousand miles after cleaning the EGR are victims of this difference in screwdrivers. It won't let torque the screw down as far as it should go, and you'll get leaks.
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Hey guys, I have had problems with my 2005 for about a week now, brought it in to Crappy Tire and they did a scan on the car and they couldn't find any problem with it. They couldn't get it to stall, (didn't help they kept it in the garage for an hour idling - after i told them it would stall during a slow down to a stop.
Brought it to my parents mechanic and saw from all these threads that the T/B was probably dirty. He took it apart, said it was dirty and cleaned it. No more stalling but now i'm getting iradic idling from 80-50km/h until it either comes to third gear or I slow it right down (by stopping)
Does anyone know what I could do to fix the problem. Should I try to disconnect the black cable or do I have to bring it in somewhere. I"m not mechanically inclined. Thanks.
Brought it to my parents mechanic and saw from all these threads that the T/B was probably dirty. He took it apart, said it was dirty and cleaned it. No more stalling but now i'm getting iradic idling from 80-50km/h until it either comes to third gear or I slow it right down (by stopping)
Does anyone know what I could do to fix the problem. Should I try to disconnect the black cable or do I have to bring it in somewhere. I"m not mechanically inclined. Thanks.
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- 2003 mazdaspeed protege
someone please help me out(help)
6. Lube the shaft inside with a drop or two of oil (what kind of oil?) and also lube the outside beneath the spring.
7. Reassembly is the reverse of removal. I suggest resetting the PCM(what is this?) while doing this, so the EGR can readjust after you start it.
6. Lube the shaft inside with a drop or two of oil (what kind of oil?) and also lube the outside beneath the spring.
7. Reassembly is the reverse of removal. I suggest resetting the PCM(what is this?) while doing this, so the EGR can readjust after you start it.
ralphyralph5
Member
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- 2010 CX-9
someone please help me out(help)
6. Lube the shaft inside with a drop or two of oil (what kind of oil?) and also lube the outside beneath the spring.
7. Reassembly is the reverse of removal. I suggest resetting the PCM(what is this?) while doing this, so the EGR can readjust after you start it.
*2 drops of Motor oil
*The pcm is the car's computer... reset it by disconnecting the battery and pressing the brake pedal for 30 seconds in order to completely drain the car(electrically)
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