How To: EGR Removal and Cleaning for Rough Idle Fix

[80sGuy]

True, but if the problem is taken care of there's no reason for the light to come back on even if the code's been stored in the system.

The best way to prevent a "Check Engine Light" from coming back (or at all) is to maintain your car to tip-top condition. This means regular maintenance like replacing items that needs to be replaced, ie; if your car's over 100k in mileage, it is basic common sense to change out the O2 sensors, replace the plugs to platinum or equivalent, and Plug Wires. Also, regular service intervals like changing the air filter on a regular basis, the oil every 4 or 5,000 miles, cleaning the MAF every now and then help keeps everything else clean - especially for the EGR Valve (I was fortunate enough and haven't experienced problems with it - yet.)

 

[mckernan]

if you leave the cel on it just runs rich for no reason.

dont even the dealers reset it?
so people dont complain when they leave with the same cel on that they drove in with

 

[80sGuy]

If the dealer fixed it, then they do reset the ECU and thus the light should be OFF.
CEL's should not be left ON, but only if you plan to diagnose the problem that you'd tried fixing or had it fixed. The whole idea for leaving it on (only for a short span) is to see if the problem had been rectified. Resetting it doesn't make a difference if the problem hadn't been fixed in the first place, unless you're the dealer and know EXACTLY where the problem is after a thorough diagnose, even that, dealers sometimes fail to address the issue of a CEL.

 

[mckernan]

lol, yeah, and then charge you 75$ to take off the the negative battery terminal for 1/2 second

 

[280z]

Today (July 6, 2009), I called my local Mazda stealership about getting the EGR replaced under warranty. I've got an '02 P5 with 127,000 miles.

They said it wasn't eligible because I have too many miles on the car.

Guess I'll clean the EGR myself.

 

[Shub]

I have an '02 PR5. I purchased it used with around 60k miles on it. Shortly after buying it, I noticed a rough idle and sometimes loss of power at higher speeds on the freeway (scary!) along with the P0300 CEL code.

I assumed it was the EGR, but to my understanding EGR will only affect the idle and not result in the loss of power at freeway speeds. Anyways, I inspected the Coil Packs which looked fine, but replaced both with ones from Autozone (33.99 each) and its been running with no problems the last week.

I know this is a little off-topic, but thought I'd help anyone with this same issue.

 

[ND4MSP]

did anyone notice an increase in boost response after cleaning? thx

 

[skilletrx]

I too had sporadic idling issues with a P0300 code (multiple cylinder misfire), and was going to clean out EGR. Tried replacing coil packs (which looked fine thru visual inspection), and that fixed it.

 

[ABigBadZebra]

I have a 2000 DX 1.6. I have lots of problems. Well, the car does anyway. Was getting misfire codes, replaced spark plugs and all was well for about 3 days of driving, then the SHTF. Although the car is running fine (as far as I can tell), I've compiled a list of the codes I am getting:

P0402 - EGR Excessive Detected
Possible Fix(es): EGR Valve (Clean or Replace)

P0302 - Cylinder 2 misfire
Possible Fix(es): Coil, Plug Wires, EGR Valve

P0442 - Evap Control System Leak Detected (small leak)
Possible Fix(es): Gas Cap, EVAP purge valve (PURGE SOLENOID VALVE), catch tank

P0455 - Evap Control System Leak Detected (no purge flow or large leak)
Possible Fix(es): Gas Cap, Vacuum leak

Pretty sure the last two codes are a different issue, but I plan to pull the EGR valve (looks to be right behind the TB on the 1.6 - possibly easier to get to) and get back to you guys. If not, then coil packs for the misfire, but the P0402 code points at the EGR as well.

I have a flashing CEL.

Just trying to get this thing running again so I can get rid of my other car and that car payment.

Let me know if I'm heading in the wrong direction.

Thanks!

 

[mckernan]

a flashing cel means it's just a little serious...

i wouldn't drive the car. fix it right away

 

[avux09]

My daughter took her 2000 1.6L back to school with the CEL still burning w/ a P0402 code. As I stated earlier I bought a new EGR valve with no help. (Anyone want a used EGR valve, make me an offer) I've since found a TSB explaining to clean an EGR port for this code. Since I don't have the car for a while, maybe someone w/ this code could check this fix? Here's the TSB.

Also another potential fix.

 

[Goldmember]

thanks this helped so much.my car runs so smooth now.

 

[darocket]

thanks mine... i have an extra one gonna clean it and just swap it out. if you ever in ocala,Fl the i buy you a beer. thanks

 

[grunt_99]

spring ok?

I removed and am cleaning my EGR valve now... my car was stalling, 125,000 kms, never had this cleaned before. It seems to have clogged at the same time that my alternator died, but anyway...

I had a hell of a time getting it off (2003 protege5). My spring does not look like the loose one pictured at the start of this thread. Mine is tightly coiled, and I can't get it to move at all. Is that normal? I'll attach a pic. Is it jammed in the compressed state, and is that why my car will not idle (at idle my tach bounces like a kid on a trampoline, low, then blips up, until it stalls).

Just wondering if I should do anything before I go to the trouble of reinstalling everything. Do I need a new one???

And what is supposed to get cleaned, the walls of the holes, or is it the parts at the bottom of the openings? I can't really get at the bottom, I just scraped the sides a bit, and let it soak in Carb cleaner (Gunk's Carb Medic) for a couple of hours. Is that adequate product & time?

Thanks for the help, i'LL probably try to do the IAC when I get the tool, too.

 

[avux09]

Yours is gummed up, that spring should not be compressed. Try to clean the valve so it will move again but it's probably time for a new one.

 

[grunt_99]

Thanks. I spoke to the dealer and found out I'm covered under the extended warranty, for the new type with different hoses.

So my question now is, can I drive the car in w/o reinstalling the valve? Will it run/idle at all, or just die? Keep in mind, when installed, my faulty valve causes the car to be almost undrivable anyway. Can I save myself the agony of trying to reinstall this thing, or will it be even worse with none installed? My bear-paw hands are going to have a nighmare tring to find those mounting holes under the throttle body. I might even consider towing it in LOL.

 

[avux09]

If it runs you can drive it, nothing will be damaged. I'd be surprised if it ran though w/ 2 holes in the manifold. You may try removing the battery, that helps make room for reinstalling the EGR as well as the black plastic air intake fitting.

 

[mckernan]

you mean ppl actually attempted this w/o taking the intake hose off?

they deserve applause, i couldn't even fit my arm in with it in the way

 

[grunt_99]

lol, not me. I'd have never got it off without removing that. I also removed the strut brace and battery amung other junk

 

[StealthWyvern]

lol, not me. I'd have never got it off without removing that. I also removed the strut brace and battery amung other junk

If it makes your life easier then remove it! lol