How To: DIY filled motor mounts

one of my mounts is ******, so I want to do this. is it possible to fill this one and not need to get a new one?
 
oh i went out and did the other mounts with dow corning silastic - 732....

good s***, and is available in black (some one tells me now!!)

a word of warning though.... in Australia the laws on modifications are fairly stringent, in particular the filling of engine mounts is completly illegal - i found out the hard way

is a good mod, but i'd be checking with your transport boards on modified engine mounts... still you can use the poly mounts
 
What mounts should I look to fill?

Pics would be helpful...thanks!

Also, do you need an engine hoist to remove any of the mounts?
 
I had to repair my roof last year, and used some ultra messy roof flashing adhesive to do it. The stuff dried pretty stiff. I had a leftover tube, so I just filled the mount with it. The good thing is that I should be able to pry it out if it sucks. It does seem to have silicone properties, but it is not.

I will let you all know how it goes. it is drying now, and will be installed tomorrow.

This how-to gave me the idea, thanks!
 
I went to check my motor mounts last night to find that the front mount looked cracked, I couldnt really tell too much without taking it out. So I went about it, and found that the screw that holds the mount was actually stripped, I was like wtf? After trying many different tools to remove it I remembered seeing someone post a picture of some stripped nut removers, I went to sears and got a set. The little stripped bastard came right out. These things are worth the money, especially if you have a tendancy to work with stripped nuts, (im finding more and more as I work on my car) (drunk)

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Definately worth the 30 bucks. I thought id let you know, plus im killing time as my mounts dry.
 
The stuff I used is still holding up well...The vibrations are a bit heftier than stock for sure. I still get some wheel hop though =(
 
mine too. The roofing adhesive is finally curiny. Noticing a little AWR type hood vibrations, but have lost the wheel hop finally. Seems like a spiffy idea.
 
I have a very very dumb question.
Do you need to tug up the engine to take out the mounts?
And if not, how is the engine supported after you took the mounts out? Or the wheel/axle will support it when you are not moving the car.
 
misbehave said:
I have a very very dumb question.
Do you need to tug up the engine to take out the mounts?
And if not, how is the engine supported after you took the mounts out? Or the wheel/axle will support it when you are not moving the car.

do them one at a time....the other mounts will hold the engine in
 
Yeah. I used a jack and a large piece of wood (to distribute the force) under the oil pan just to move the engine an inch when putting the mounts back in. You can directly support the transmission if you're doing one of the mounts on the right side.
 
Hey folks! I just bought the windo weld and not really satisfied cause it dryes like hell. I spent like 6 hours and it just became a solid but not strong enoght to put the mount back. How long did your mount dry? Can I put near heater or something with steady temperature?
thx
 
I let it dry the whole weekend. It must not be sticky to the touch. Still, after the outside dries, if you put it back in the car the inside which hasn't dried will be pushed out and you'll get nothing out of all your work.

Leave it for 2-5 days outside the car.
 
iluvmacs said:
I let it dry the whole weekend. It must not be sticky to the touch. Still, after the outside dries, if you put it back in the car the inside which hasn't dried will be pushed out and you'll get nothing out of all your work.

Leave it for 2-5 days outside the car.
ok...thanks man. I don't know may be I did something wrong. I cleaned the rubber inside and put the windo weld inside with a big coat (may be that's why it doesn't dry so fast) and it is still like liquid? How did you make your with windo weld? (could you give me detail instructions)
 
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