How to change springs?

markbehr

Member
:
2012 Mazda3 skyactiv
Is there a how to guide about installing springs for the 2? i googled it and looked every night for a week or so and cant seem to find one. any ideas would be appreciated. thanks.(hand)
 
Mark, was the pm I sent awhile back when we talked not enough? It's really easy. I didn't take pics when I did mine because it probably would have doubled the time it took me to do it. It's 2 nuts on the rear shocks in the back, out come the old springs, in go the new ones and retighten each shock nut.
The fronts are 3 nuts on top of each strut. the 2 bolts that bolt the lower strut to the knuckle. 1 or 2 small bolts that hold the brake line on (can't remember if its 1 or 2 but you'll see the line). once the strut is out, there's a 14mm or 17mm nut that is on top of the strut. Use a spring compressor or you can go about the other way but do it at your own risk. off comes the old spring and on goes the new one and reinstall. super easy process. You'll laugh when you finish at how easy it was.
 
you know what i totally forgot. thanks for reminding me. my apologies, have alot on my mind.
 
There are several, including one I did on installing Bilstein coilovers (same process). There is also one on installing Eibachs.

BTW, do both back springs at the same time and the fronts one side at a time. Works easier that way.

John
 
Race, my only problem is i would have to do all one at a time since i can only use the jack that came with the car. i dont have a floor jack nor do i know anyone that has one.
 
No worries Mark. Do yourself a favor and go buy a couple jackstands. I'm pretty sure you can still get a pair of stands for 15-20$. Some places offer a jack with 2 or 4 stands for cheap as well. At least buy a jack and 2 stand so that you can do the back at once. That's really the only way to lower the rear of the car.
 
Hi Mark,

Oh-Oh....... It will be hard to get the OEM rear springs out unless you can get the whole rear up in the air at once. The rear beam axle doesn't twist enough with one side at a time.

Harbor Freight (Horrible Fright?) can be your friend here. If you get a coupon they have a pair of jack stands for about $15. They also have a nice aluminum jack for $60 with the coupon. Love mine. Its low and light. The 'Free' flashlight with the coupon is also pretty good.

Concrete blocks have also been used. Most Japanese cars use similar scissor jacks if you have a buddy that you can borrow from.

John
 
Mark, if you need some jack stands I got 2 AC Delco stands from O'Reilly's for $25 (sold as a pair) that are rated at 2500lbs each. More than enough for the M2, since I used these on my 91 Cherokee multiple times.
 
I actually have stands its the jack I need, so I might just pic one up. Thanks anyway I really appreciate it.
 
ugh i actually said screw it and gave it a try. i decided to do the front end first and it all was going good. i got the spring/strut out and used a spring compressor (have no idea how much i should compress the spring. i did a little), but i couldnt get the center to stop spining while i tried to loosin the center bolt. i used every tool i that i owned. still no luck. so since there are storms coming i decided to put it all back together until i can get something to loosin the center bolt. well at least i kinda know how to do it now.
 
impact gun works great or you could try loosening the top but with the spring compressors on but not compressing the spring much if any. So they're just there to catch the spring. That way there is still tension pushing on the top mount. You were nearly done man.
 
i know i was so pissed. i forgot about the center piece spinning until i actually tried. i was prepared for everything but that. oh well. and to top it off the storms havent shown up yet. damn
 
Put a screwdriver between two of the three little studs on the top plate of the strut to keep it from turning and loosen the big nut with an impact gun. Worked pretty well for me.
 
now im just a little confused about the camber bolts. how do i know if i need to adjust them and all without a gauge. theres no way i can afford a camber gauge. i can install the bolts but thats as far as i can go.
 
Hi Mark,

You probably won't have to worry about camber as long as you get the toe adjusted.

John
 
oh ok cool. ill put the bolts on anyway so i dont feel like i wasted money on the bolts lol.
 
When you go to get the car aligned after the springs, make sure you tell them you have bolts to adjust the camber up front or else they most likely will only adjust the toe. Since you're installing the camber bolts, they will most likely need to adjust the camber. If you don't put those bolts in then you won't need it adjusted anyways.
 
Does anybody think it would be possible to losin the top nut while the spring/strut was still installed under the hood.
 
Hi Mark,

I took a quick look at the OEM strut out in the garage.

This is all a WAG (Wild Assed Guess), since I used an electric impact driver on mine.

I think that you may be able to use a Allen (hex) wrench (6 mm?) to keep the shock shaft from turning. I'd try a deep well socket the size of the nut (make sure that there is a through-hole in the socket large enough for the Allen wrench).

Then I'd latch on to the top of the socket with a Vise Grip and use that to remove the nut while holding the shock shaft in place with the Allen. You may need to use something to help hold the Allen. A T-handle might be easier than just a normal Allen wrench.

As always, be extremely careful with a spring under compression. The fingers you save may be your own...........

John
 
Back