How TO: CEL/MIL Eliminator!
- Thread starter acidbug
- Start date
FunkyBuddha
Tuned by Slick Nick
- :
- 2003 Spicy Orange MSP
Just help me install my header, plug this 2nd o2 in and let's see for ourselves! When are you free this week?
I wanted to do the same thing, and yes it would work, the problem is the cost for the male and female peices.P5 Rally said:
i got a obdII reader, the code is 0140, which is no circuit activity, im thinking the resistor is too big, its not letting any kind of current thru im gonna try ONLY a 1K ohm resistor with no cap, if i throw a cel i will try the cap, if i throw one after that i'll go weld a bung, trouble shooting is gay
Last edited:
Well, if you do have to sell your car, all you'd have to do is reconnect the cut wires and cover them up with shrink wrap. No one would ever know what you did to it.
As for the part numbers, I don't remember them, but you could go to any mazda dealer and they should be able to get it for you.
As for the part numbers, I don't remember them, but you could go to any mazda dealer and they should be able to get it for you.
try to find out what code you are geting, the stupid ODB2 tool is 250CAD (stupid fukers) anyways if you are getting a 140 then you have the same problem as me, i think maybe a wire going to ECU is fried or something... it should be saying another codeCANMP3 said:
HOW EASY is it to damage an O2 sensor? like ive handled it quite a bit for solder and resolder, its a big peice of metal so i was assuming it wouldn't be as hard to break as something like your MAF sensor
well just got a bung welded in, and got a NEW CHECK ENGINE CODE!! YAY!! my 02 sensor still works, now i get catalyst warmup below threshold!! yes!! what im supposed to get, now im going to throw in my cel eliminator and see if it works, so i guess you cant use the eliminator without a bung
Anyone know how the O2 sensor works? I was assuming that it would output a DC voltage proportional to the O2 content of the exhaust gas. If this DIY fix is correct, then all it is doing is putting a 1Hz filter on the signal from the O2 sensor to the ECU. To me, this implies that the signal is AC.
As far as polarized caps go, I would suggest not using an electrolytic cap because they can't take the heat for very long. Also, if you connect a tantalum cap in backwards then it will eventually fail to a short, which would throw a CEL suggesting that the O2 sensor was not working at all. I have no idea if this would cause damage to the ECU, but I don't suspect it wouldn't. For temperature and install reasons, I think that a ceramic cap would be best.
I'm curious now also, anyone find out what the P/N for the male and female connectors are?
As far as polarized caps go, I would suggest not using an electrolytic cap because they can't take the heat for very long. Also, if you connect a tantalum cap in backwards then it will eventually fail to a short, which would throw a CEL suggesting that the O2 sensor was not working at all. I have no idea if this would cause damage to the ECU, but I don't suspect it wouldn't. For temperature and install reasons, I think that a ceramic cap would be best.
I'm curious now also, anyone find out what the P/N for the male and female connectors are?
- :
- ‘19 CX-5 GTR Tu
sorry not an electrician..but works on ac..check it out by using a voltage meter.blaxer said:
doubt it will cuase damage..the only thing that would cause damamge to ecu is a short in wiring..which would feed directly into ecu..
no idea on p/n for the connectors...
Chas(boom07)
FunkyBuddha
Tuned by Slick Nick
- :
- 2003 Spicy Orange MSP
Ok, today I have travelled officially over 100km. No CEL w/ the ractive header. The 2nd o2 bung was welded into the collector. I will keep you guys up to date w/ progress. It might come on later. I have a feeling it might come on.
the o2 sensor mesures how much o2 is left after the burn cycle, the 1st o2 sensor will display something close to a sin wave, meaning lots of o2, lots of unburned fuel and CO, the 2nd o2 sensor will display the same thing except the amplitude of the wave will be alot smaller, since the cat will have burned the rest of the excess fuel, got rid of the CO so all theres left is CO2 and H20, your cel will come on if it sees the same thing as your 1st o2 sensor (which it will with a header) since it thinks your cat isn't warming up to burn the rest of the fuel and convert CO to CO2. also the code you SHOULD be getting is P0421 (i think) it should be catalyst warmup below threshold bank 1 (meaning the cat is taking too long to warm up to do its job, probably because its not there lol)blaxer said:
Last edited:
FunkyBuddha
Tuned by Slick Nick
- :
- 2003 Spicy Orange MSP
Ok..CEL came on after 117km.
Acidbdg, I hooked up the Mil Eliminator just like you said. It was working PERFECTLY, but just recently I threw a cel again. I didn't check to see what it was, but I'm sure it's the O2 sensor. What should I do? Do I have to do it over again?
Last edited:
