HOW TO: Auto Turn Off Head/Parking Lights
- Thread starter tddelsol
- Start date
lol. The pin to be used is in fact 87, not 87a. Unless you want to only use your headlights when your keys are out of the ignition. (laugh)Changed1MG
Member
- :
- '03 Mazda Protege5 in Laser Blue Mica
Ezeikiel said:
if you get the kit, does the "lights on" reminder chime still go off when you leave teh car? what is this turbo timer thing you guys are talking about?
A turbo timer is for turbocharged vehicles such as the MSP, or some other lucky protege's with aftermarket turbo kits. What it does is keeps the engine running for a minute or so after you take the keys out of the ignition. The purpose of this is to let the oil going through the turbo to cool slowly, preventing "coking" of oil in the turbo, which is basically the equivalent of clogging your arteries in a human. It is not essential, as you can always sit in your car for a minute and wait a while for the turbo to cool a bit, but it is a convenience to let the TT do it for you.
hey zap i gots a chalenge for ya...
my parents camry has a nice lil feature on it, when you leave the lights on... you remove the key... stays as it is... when you open the door the headlights turn off...
but better than all the rest, it can be reset - so if you want to leave the lights on, just turn the headlights off then on and they stay lit...
and hell while i'm asking questions, do you reckon you could make the headlights go on delay? only reason i ask is what happens when you crank with your headlights on?
my parents camry has a nice lil feature on it, when you leave the lights on... you remove the key... stays as it is... when you open the door the headlights turn off...
but better than all the rest, it can be reset - so if you want to leave the lights on, just turn the headlights off then on and they stay lit...
and hell while i'm asking questions, do you reckon you could make the headlights go on delay? only reason i ask is what happens when you crank with your headlights on?
ahb11m said:
Hmm I will work on these, my first thoughts:
Lights turn off when you open and close your door:
This can be done with sime single-shot, and self-starting relay wiring.
Basicly the relay would be activated by power from the headlights.
If the doors are opened, the relay would switch off, regardless of the headlight switch. Then it would have to be reset by the OFF position on the headlights.
Go on Delay
This can be done just by wiring a relay to the ignition power.
When the ignition is cranked, the relay turns the headlights off.
The relay will consume much less power then the headlights.
i thought something with a one shot, but i dunno how they work!!
oh well the delay can live....
essentially i wanted to setup a DLR sorta thing in the end... but at full power...
but yeah who wants to have the lights just go out when you can have something better?
i'll be watching closely master
oh well the delay can live....
essentially i wanted to setup a DLR sorta thing in the end... but at full power...
but yeah who wants to have the lights just go out when you can have something better?
i'll be watching closely master
Good thing I was looking through the how-to forum. This is one thing I loved about my Mitsubishi Lancer, the lights always turned off when I turned off the car. It was a great feature. Thanks for the write-up. All I need, more wiring projects. Windows and turbo timer arm alarm this weekend. I'll have to wait till after Christmas for this mod.
kyle's protege5
Member
- :
- 2002 MP5-T
wouldnt it be easier to just change the wire feeding the headlight switch from a constant 12v to a 12v wire controlled by the ignition switch? seems a lot easier than putting in a relay.
99ProtegeKV
Member
- :
- 2002 Mazda Protege5 2.0L Auto.
might do this.. but lookin for the mod to get the fogs to be on with parking lights for p5. dumb that it doesnt let u do that stock.
bullshark524
Member
- :
- 2000 mazda protege es soon to be 2000 mazda protege klze
just did this and lovin it even though it is not dark out yet
bullshark524
Member
- :
- 2000 mazda protege es soon to be 2000 mazda protege klze
i've got some pictures here
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3868701/2
for anyone that needs. if you need more just let me know
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3868701/2
for anyone that needs. if you need more just let me know
Head light Mod Modification
When I did my headlight mod,.. I found a short-cut,... there is an ACC 1 or 2 wire right in the connector.
No need for finding another ACC wire to splice into. No need for a fuse either,... it's fused already (as I found out the harder but funner way)
The wire is the Black with a Yellow stripe. The fuse is the number 15 METER fuse, 10 amp (either that or #14,.. I kinda forget but meter makes more sense)
If you leave the key out of the ignition you will not blow a fuse,... It's the ACC wire so you can ground it out without causing a problem.
The little green wire is "hot" all the time as well as two others.
The circuit is different in that you make and break the ground circuit instead of the +12 v. It took me a while to figure out whether the DC Volts were coming or going (hence the -0.12 on my ammeter)
Get any relay off any junker any where that has four wires on it,... get the whole relay and connector if possible,... It's allot easier to install with the wires from the connector.
I had this relay sitting around for 10 yrs
just apply 12v to any combination of two wires till you here a click (Touch the battery terminals at the junk yard or your car)
those two wires run the "electric switch" the other two wires ARE the switch
It's an electrically powered switch,.. the power required to run the switch is very minimal,.. it's the power running through the mechanical switch can be very high,... mine was rated 20 amps. it had two thin wires and two fat wires so I knew the thin wires were the control wires. the fat wires are the 20 amp wires. positive and negative don't matter (all wires are isolated in the switch so none of them ground to the casing.)
There is only 0.12 amps running through the switch to operate the headlight relay,... so ANY 12 V relay will do,... (even one from your cell phone if you want to)
You do need to have to get a normally open switch that only closes the mechanical switch inside when power is applied,... so bring your ohm meter (or multi-meter) with you. or just get a five wire relay and figure out the pin configurement . I'm pretty sure over 95% of relays are normally open (4 wire ones) because you almost always want something to turn on when you apply power so go ahead and just pick two and try it If you happen to have a normally closed switch your in for a light show,... I suppose you could even blow up a car battery but I don't know that for sure. It's rated 20 amps so it would take allot more than that to fry the switch. I personally would just go for it.
SO,... guess who needs a new camera,... I've got a 5 foot focal length and my arms aren't that long
This is the best wire stripper I've ever owned,... no more cut or broken strands (burnt fingers maybe though)
You don't need to cut the black wire,... Just torch it about an inch from the connector and use your finger nails to pull the shielding off the wire. maybe practice a bit on some spare wire. Roll the wire between your finger and thumb so the flame covers the entire circumference of the wire.
That's a wind proof lighter,... It can shoot the flame straight down without the flame curling back up to your thumb. It doesn't leave as much black crap on your wire.
I'm sure you could use butt and t connectors but a solder joint is more reliable.
Last edited by pcb; Today at 04:01 PM.
When I did my headlight mod,.. I found a short-cut,... there is an ACC 1 or 2 wire right in the connector.
No need for finding another ACC wire to splice into. No need for a fuse either,... it's fused already (as I found out the harder but funner way)
The wire is the Black with a Yellow stripe. The fuse is the number 15 METER fuse, 10 amp (either that or #14,.. I kinda forget but meter makes more sense)
If you leave the key out of the ignition you will not blow a fuse,... It's the ACC wire so you can ground it out without causing a problem.
The little green wire is "hot" all the time as well as two others.
The circuit is different in that you make and break the ground circuit instead of the +12 v. It took me a while to figure out whether the DC Volts were coming or going (hence the -0.12 on my ammeter)
Get any relay off any junker any where that has four wires on it,... get the whole relay and connector if possible,... It's allot easier to install with the wires from the connector.
I had this relay sitting around for 10 yrs
just apply 12v to any combination of two wires till you here a click (Touch the battery terminals at the junk yard or your car)
those two wires run the "electric switch" the other two wires ARE the switch
It's an electrically powered switch,.. the power required to run the switch is very minimal,.. it's the power running through the mechanical switch can be very high,... mine was rated 20 amps. it had two thin wires and two fat wires so I knew the thin wires were the control wires. the fat wires are the 20 amp wires. positive and negative don't matter (all wires are isolated in the switch so none of them ground to the casing.)
There is only 0.12 amps running through the switch to operate the headlight relay,... so ANY 12 V relay will do,... (even one from your cell phone if you want to)
You do need to have to get a normally open switch that only closes the mechanical switch inside when power is applied,... so bring your ohm meter (or multi-meter) with you. or just get a five wire relay and figure out the pin configurement . I'm pretty sure over 95% of relays are normally open (4 wire ones) because you almost always want something to turn on when you apply power so go ahead and just pick two and try it If you happen to have a normally closed switch your in for a light show,... I suppose you could even blow up a car battery but I don't know that for sure. It's rated 20 amps so it would take allot more than that to fry the switch. I personally would just go for it.
SO,... guess who needs a new camera,... I've got a 5 foot focal length and my arms aren't that long
This is the best wire stripper I've ever owned,... no more cut or broken strands (burnt fingers maybe though)
You don't need to cut the black wire,... Just torch it about an inch from the connector and use your finger nails to pull the shielding off the wire. maybe practice a bit on some spare wire. Roll the wire between your finger and thumb so the flame covers the entire circumference of the wire.
That's a wind proof lighter,... It can shoot the flame straight down without the flame curling back up to your thumb. It doesn't leave as much black crap on your wire.
I'm sure you could use butt and t connectors but a solder joint is more reliable.
Last edited by pcb; Today at 04:01 PM.
Last edited:
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