How-to: amplifier mounting baffle

Mistersix

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MAZDASPEED6
IMO amps always look better mounted to something other than the subwoofer box or under a seat. not only can you not see the amp, but the heatsink cannot properly radiate heat.
Fortunately theres a great place right behind the back seat in the trunk to fit an amp or two. all we need is a secure way to attach em.

Difficulty: 2 outta 10
Stuff needed: drill and bits, pliers, 1/4" piece of plywood, jigsaw, 2 1/2" bolts w/nuts and washers, sandpaper, flatblade or knife.
Install time: about 2 hrs.
Cool factor: 5 outta 10

start by removing the five pop out clips that hold the the plastic covering in place. i've found using a small blade like a swiss army knife to work better than a flat head for this. flip the cover over and measure the flat area. this will be the shape of the baffle we're using.

source a piece of 1/4" wood to make the baffle out of. apply your measurements to the sheet. Use a jigsaw to cut the piece to size. here are the measurements i used.
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and heres what the final piece should look like.
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Get some sand paper and clean up those edges, then check your work for fitment.
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now were gonna attach this thing to those diagonal braces. but were not gonna drill into em. were just gonna use the holes that are already there.
put the baffle in place and use some clamps to hold it in place. dont let it rest on the bottom of the area. leave a 1/2" of space or so between the baffle and the metal below it to feed wires through. like so...
Photo0127.jpg



pick 2 of the 3 holes in the brace on each side and mark the baffle with a pen or marker.

your gonna need some hardware. i used 2 1/2" bolts with nuts and some washers.
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remove the baffle and drill the appropriate size holes were marked.
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now the holes in the braces are to big to use regular old metal washers so were gonna make some wooden one. from the same sheet of wood cut 4 2x2" pieces.
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clean em up with sand paper and drill the holes. keep in mind your not threading into the wood. heres your what you should have.
Photo0129.jpg


clamp the baffle back in place and feed the hard ware threw the holes. put your super fancy washers on the other side then the nuts. your gonna need some help to tighten em. heres a pic.
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heres a shot of the baffle attached and ready to be covered up. try to only use about a 1/2" inch screw when mounting the amp to the baffle.
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and there you have it. the rest is up to you from here on out. depending on you amp and how you wanna mount it and run your wires and such. make sure you drill the cover cuz it breaks really easy. dont force the wires threw.
do the neccesary cutting and drilling before you put the cover back in place and run the wires threw. then attach the five clips.
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now you can screw into any where on the flat area and mount your amp, cap, fuse, whatever.
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and here my finished product. looks great, and it easier to remove the box if need be.
Photo0135.jpg
 
added note: you'll want the baffle to sit nice and flush against the braces.
38" was a little long and i had to cut notches out of the sides cuz the baffle was resting on the bolts for the braces, so go with 37" inches long.

also put some foam gasket or weather stripping between the brace and the baffle to prevent any possible vibration.
 
Very cool work. Unfortunately for me, when I get around to building my custom sub box, it will fill that space, and the amps will go on top so I can mess with them as I all too often do. If I wasn't going that route, I'd surely use this idea. One question, however: Did you have to cut the excess bolt length so they wouldn't poke the backs of the rear seats?
 
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