how much does syn oil cost?

[Mad Ryan]

FYI...

Napa Gold filters are made by WIX. That's what I run, along with Redline full synthetic.

 

[JTP]

I wasnt aware that they had the breakin oil in the Mazdas. I thought that was a Honda thing. Correct me if Im wrong.

 

[N1XRR]

well, actually how many miles does your car have? the reason i ask is because if you run synthetic oil with less than 12k miles... your car will never break in due to the fact that synthetic is too soft.
but right when i break that 12k mark im running AMSOIL, i ran it in my BMW and i love it.
oh... and i have had my car for just under a month and i have already used 1900 miles...

Kris

What the hell are you talking about? There is no fact to that satement at all! Infact, new BMW's and VW(at least the diesels) REQUIRE it from the factory from day 1!

My family has been running Amsoil for a LONG time, we have NEVER had problems with our cars "not" breaking in.

I've been running Amsoil since 600 miles and its been great so far. I would HIGHLY suggest that if you run Amsoil you become a dealer. You save about $2/quart by doing so. Its like $50 to become a dealer and $10/year to renew. After shipping I pay about $5.20/quart being a dealer. That, and my whole family uses it now, so it justifies the cost a little more.

 

[jonnydoe48]

What the hell are you talking about? There is no fact to that satement at all! Infact, new BMW's and VW(at least the diesels) REQUIRE it from the factory from day 1!

My family has been running Amsoil for a LONG time, we have NEVER had problems with our cars "not" breaking in.

I've been running Amsoil since 600 miles and its been great so far. I would HIGHLY suggest that if you run Amsoil you become a dealer. You save about $2/quart by doing so. Its like $50 to become a dealer and $10/year to renew. After shipping I pay about $5.20/quart being a dealer. That, and my whole family uses it now, so it justifies the cost a little more.

he is right. mercedes requires synthetic from the beginning.

 

[Mad Ryan]

I wasnt aware that they had the breakin oil in the Mazdas. I thought that was a Honda thing. Correct me if Im wrong.

I don't actually know if the oil in Mazda's is a "break in oil" like many manufacturers use but I do know that engines run their best at max tolerances. This is to say that if a bearing tolerance (cold) is .030in of play (max) then you are going to get the least amount of friction and wear if this particular bearing is running at .030in tolerance. If the engine has a given bearing tolerance of .015in when new and by leaving the "break in oil" in the full 5000mi you hone this tolerance out to .030in before switching to a synthetic you are going to get less friction, hence less heat, hence more power, and more life from the motor. I changed the oil the first time in my P-5 at about 5500 miles and I'll tell you that the car makes much more power than a brand new one. The motor runs much smoother and takes longer to heat up.

I break my bike motors in differently but the basic principles are the same. I generally start out by warming up the bike the first time really well and then moving out to a straight road where I can open it up without much attention. I start out by taking it no higher than about 6500rpm (Redline is at 12,000 rpm's) for about the first 5-10 miles and I go from 1000-6500 in 2nd or 3rd as hard is the bike will accelerate and then shut off the gas and compression brake all the way back down to 1000. After this I start taking it to 7500 for 10 miles and then 8500 for 10 miles and then 9500 for 10 miles and so on up to redline. Through all this I'm shifting through the gears alot and watching the temp gauge carefully between runs. Once I've put about 100 or so miles on the bike doing this I ride home and change the oil to a high quality Dino and ride the piss out of the bike for another couple of hundred miles where I change the oil again.

At this point I usually consider the bike broken in as far as piston seal is concearned. I run dino (Honda GN-4) till 3k miles to give the bearings a chance to catch up and then switch to Redline full synth. This method has given me a ZX-9 that puts out more power than most of the pre-2002 R-1's on the road, despite the 100cc deficit, and it runs like a new bike with no valve tic or any of the other crap I've seen from many bikes.