How do I uninstall my WHOLE turbo system?

I would almost drive down there and trade you... but my passport is expired... and the only speeding ticket ive ever got in my life was in the US lol... they might bend me over a barrel.

actually, if you would sell just the midpipe, id be interested in that too. all i really care about is mating my pope downpipe to the stock exhaust for now. i wont be turning up the psi... just not wanting to spend $800-$1000 on exhaust atm...
I dont really care about the axle back, you could sell that local. the two other pipes would be cheaper to ship on their own as well. but. whoknows what you want for it. budget is pretty limited for a used exhaust.
 
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Update: well, i plugged everything up after i pulled everything turbo off. Now the car is over heating. Fan is on, you can hear it. And whem you let your foot off the gas pedal, the car dies.

As far as overheating, im guessing maybe air the system? If so how would i flush it out?

What the hell? Any ideas? I matched all the plugs ( coolant lines ) with my msp. All 3 o2 sensors are plugged in, i cleaned maf sensor before i put it back in. The only plug i didnt plug back together was the screw thats first on the exhaust manifold before the o2 sensor. They dont line up close enough for me to bolt them together.

20150609_211640.jpg


Is that the problem as far as the car dying when not on Throttle?

It also has a exhaust leak where the new headers meet the cat converter.
 
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If you drive down. You can trade me yours and a case of beer lol. Still havent found a stock one yet.
 
uhhhh thats the egr pipe and it would be a badassss vac leak if you dont hook it up. should only be two o2 sensors. on an na car the second one is in the j pipe. msp its on the midpipe between the cats. its unlikely id be able to drive there anytime soon ha.

ps, go rip one off a junkyard car.. cheap cheap.
 
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Valk said:
uhhhh thats the egr pipe and it would be a badassss vac leak if you dont hook it up. should only be two o2 sensors. on an na car the second one is in the j pipe. msp its on the midpipe between the cats. its unlikely id be able to drive there anytime soon ha.

ps, go rip one off a junkyard car.. cheap cheap.
Click to expand...

So that could be the reason for the protege5 dying? The egr pipe not hooked up?

One sensor in the exhaust manifold,
Second sensor is before cat,
Third sensor is after the cat converter.

Which one doesnt belong?

The junkyards in Salem rip everything off. Its really, a "junk" yard.
 
you should only have two wires for o2 sensors, so one of them isnt plugged in. BUUUUT this depends on the car actually having an msp midpipe. if it was just a turbo system swap, he prob kept the stock jpipe, which you should see a o2 sensor attached, if not, check the midpipe, see if it matches you msp. the exhaust to the back of the car after them idpipe is 100% identical, only the muffler has different pipe.

obviously the msp midpipe should have a wiring extension to go with it, which connects up where the second o2 is near the primary one. egr not hooked up would lean the engine out tons as it would have been a .75" vaccum leak, thus killing the car. as for overheating, prob just a bubble. i assume you plugged the oil cooler hole with a bolt.. and however the oil cooler return was plumbed into the rig. interesting way to plug the turbo coolant return... lol. id get an na elbow and save that one for yourself if it was me.

that bolts prob leaking pressure from the coolant system though. if your overflow bottle is boiling, changes are something isn't buttoned up as it should be and your leaking coolant pressure but maybe not coolant. when the cars cold, pop the rad cap off and let it idle for a few minutes. you can burb the rad hoses ect.

oh, if that header is your ONLY option, and stretching the egr pipe wont work for you.. you could prob use a blockoff plate on the egr, just leave the egr electrically connected. im not sure if this will cause a cel or not, maybe not a good idea if you plan to sell the car.
 
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Welp, i flushed out the radiator and filled it up with fresh coolant. Doesnt overheat anymore.

For connecting the 2 egr ports. I think imma try to run a rubber hose to both ports to connect them and see how that goes.

I plugged just the exhaust manifold bung and the car kept dying. But prior to that the car was running by itself before i plugged the manifold egr port. ( was testing to see if it would overheat )

So im assuming that both ports have to flow open?
 
You can get a 1/2" NPT threaded pipe cap at a hardware store that will cap the EGR then cut the line from the IM and put a filter on it. leave the EGR plugged in and there should not be a CEL. Or you can get the gas line that is flexible and replaces the stock hard line.

I think you can imagine what would happen to a rubber hose on an exhaust manifold, or at least I hope you do
 
So I can plug the egr port on the exhaust manifold then?

If so then theres another reason why my cars dying without throttle.
 
If the EGR valve sees no air/exhaust flow, it will throw a CEL. It's not like the VICS/VTCS solenoids which can remain plugged in without any vacuum source connected.

The EGR valve opens only at idle. If the EGR valve is drawing fresh air instead of exhaust, this fresh air is referred to as "unmetered" air since it is in the intake system but not measured by the MAF sensor. It is like a giant vacuum leak, so it could be contributing to your stalls at idle/no throttle.

Really, your best option for avoiding both a CEL and lean condition (unmetered air in the intake system) is to find a flexible metal gas line and connect the EGR port on the intake manifold to the EGR nipple on the exhaust manifold.

Lots of people make a huge stink about the EGR system without realizing that it isn't always open. It's really unnecessary IMO to go through so much trouble to try and get rid of it.

Good luck.
 
Viralphrame said:
If the EGR valve sees no air/exhaust flow, it will throw a CEL. It's not like the VICS/VTCS solenoids which can remain plugged in without any vacuum source connected.

The EGR valve opens only at idle. If the EGR valve is drawing fresh air instead of exhaust, this fresh air is referred to as "unmetered" air since it is in the intake system but not measured by the MAF sensor. It is like a giant vacuum leak, so it could be contributing to your stalls at idle/no throttle.

Really, your best option for avoiding both a CEL and lean condition (unmetered air in the intake system) is to find a flexible metal gas line and connect the EGR port on the intake manifold to the EGR nipple on the exhaust manifold.

Lots of people make a huge stink about the EGR system without realizing that it isn't always open. It's really unnecessary IMO to go through so much trouble to try and get rid of it.

Good luck.
Click to expand...

Alright. Thanks for the reply. Now i gotta find a flexible metal line to connect them. Thanks!
 
Update: so egr is connected. But the car will only die when its warm operating temperature.

Could it be the ecu maybe? I have checked what ecu it has. Nor do i know how to tell the difference between a p5 ecu and a msp ecu.
 
If you're running n/a using the MSP ECU then yes, this will drastically affect how the car runs, especially at wot. The ECU still thinks there's a turbo connected so it'll dump way too much fuel, causing you to run rich and given the MSP's run crazy rich already, you'd more than likely bog down, particularly at lower rpm's.
 
njintau_fsd said:
If you're running n/a using the MSP ECU then yes, this will drastically affect how the car runs, especially at wot. The ECU still thinks there's a turbo connected so it'll dump way too much fuel, causing you to run rich and given the MSP's run crazy rich already, you'd more than likely bog down, particularly at lower rpm's.
Click to expand...

I figured as much. So its safe to say i can run any 2.0 ecu then? If it is a msp ecu of course. Havent looked yet. Been doing that overtime at work.
 
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