That could be tricky,... I don't know if there is a power supply that is ONLY on when the car is off.
If you don't mind your light ALWAYS flashing it will be easy.
How do I remove the ''diagonal cover'' on inside of protege5?
- Thread starter FunkyMonk309
- Start date
That could be tricky,... I don't know if there is a power supply that is ONLY on when the car is off.
If you don't mind your light ALWAYS flashing it will be easy.
It should be very easy for you to use a butt connector on the blue wire with a red stripe coming out of that fuse box.
My car (2002 P5) only has that wire and two pink ones,... not the fourth wire ???? I think that fourth wire is for the cig. lighter but I'm not sure. (mine's wired in somewhere else I guess) BUT your blue/red wire should be the same. It is +12 volts all the time.
Another option is the room fuse (+12 volts always) but that requires getting into that fuse somehow like a wire under the fuse terminal.
My car (2002 P5) only has that wire and two pink ones,... not the fourth wire ???? I think that fourth wire is for the cig. lighter but I'm not sure. (mine's wired in somewhere else I guess) BUT your blue/red wire should be the same. It is +12 volts all the time.
Another option is the room fuse (+12 volts always) but that requires getting into that fuse somehow like a wire under the fuse terminal.
FunkyMonk309
Member
- :
- 2003 Mazda Protege5
Alright thanks, so my option would be the blue wire for a constant 12v power source. I have installation instructions for the LED light, now, how would I apply what you told me, to this? (again sorry I know nothing about electrical)
Part A: Test and Mount the LED
1. Test the LED light directly on a battery source of 9 to 12 volts to make sure it's functional.
2. Choose a highly visible smooth flat surface to mount the light.
3. Add extension wires to the LED. Small speaker wire (24 gauge)
* Be sure to add enough wire to reach your fuse box.
4. Run the wires to the fuse box.
* There are 2 boxes in most vehicles, under the dash and in the engine compartment.
* Tuck and tie them up and out of the way as you go.
Part B: Wiring the LED into the fuse box.
1. Turn off the vehicle and remove the key from the ignition.
2. Temporarily connect the black (-) to ground (any exposed metal surface)
3. Touch off the red (+) wire to the fuses until the LED comes on.
* Pull the fuse out and insert the wire into the fuse slot. Re-insert the fuse.
4. Disconnect the black (-) from ground.
5. Touch off the black (-) to the fuses until the LED comes on again.
* Pull the fuse out and insert the wire into the fuse slot. Re-insert the fuse.
6. Turn the ignition on and the LED shuts off. Ignition off and the LED comes on.
* You are done.
***Note: Never connect LED wires to fuses that operate or run a vehicles computer, sensors or digital displays.
Part A: Test and Mount the LED
1. Test the LED light directly on a battery source of 9 to 12 volts to make sure it's functional.
2. Choose a highly visible smooth flat surface to mount the light.
3. Add extension wires to the LED. Small speaker wire (24 gauge)
* Be sure to add enough wire to reach your fuse box.
4. Run the wires to the fuse box.
* There are 2 boxes in most vehicles, under the dash and in the engine compartment.
* Tuck and tie them up and out of the way as you go.
Part B: Wiring the LED into the fuse box.
1. Turn off the vehicle and remove the key from the ignition.
2. Temporarily connect the black (-) to ground (any exposed metal surface)
3. Touch off the red (+) wire to the fuses until the LED comes on.
* Pull the fuse out and insert the wire into the fuse slot. Re-insert the fuse.
4. Disconnect the black (-) from ground.
5. Touch off the black (-) to the fuses until the LED comes on again.
* Pull the fuse out and insert the wire into the fuse slot. Re-insert the fuse.
6. Turn the ignition on and the LED shuts off. Ignition off and the LED comes on.
* You are done.
***Note: Never connect LED wires to fuses that operate or run a vehicles computer, sensors or digital displays.
FunkyMonk309
Member
- :
- 2003 Mazda Protege5
Ok nevermind I just checked on youtube some videos with fuseboxes. What was confusing me was literally HOW to connect to the fusebox, I think I'm fine now
If you get and use one of these,.. you don't need to mess with your fuses and it's quick and easy to install. (it doesn't cut the wire either,.. just bites into it a bit.)
The diagrams show that it is the "room" fuse wire , so it is a safe wire to tap into.
If you pinch a wire underneath the prong of a fuse,.. you can widen the contact point inside the fuse box, so if you ever remove the wire, it can possibly not make proper contact. It's kind of a messy wiring technique as well.
The diagrams show that it is the "room" fuse wire , so it is a safe wire to tap into.
If you pinch a wire underneath the prong of a fuse,.. you can widen the contact point inside the fuse box, so if you ever remove the wire, it can possibly not make proper contact. It's kind of a messy wiring technique as well.
How long does the 'room fuse' stay powered when key is off? (i thought it was only 30 seconds)
Use a 12VDC 'key on' energized circuit to power a relay that interupts the ground circuit when energized. Then the blinking LED is only grounded when the key is off (and vice versa).
I can't 'do this' on the computer - PM and i will fax you a sample electrical diagram of what i mean...
Use a 12VDC 'key on' energized circuit to power a relay that interupts the ground circuit when energized. Then the blinking LED is only grounded when the key is off (and vice versa).
I can't 'do this' on the computer - PM and i will fax you a sample electrical diagram of what i mean...
The room fuse is connected directly to B+ then goes straight to "D" of the JB-02 connector (the blue/red wire). It also goes to the interior light circuit (after going through the fuse) and that's where the 30 second timer circuit does it's thing.
That's the same circuit design I used for my "Headlights Off With Ignition" mod.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...rking-Lights&p=6131553&viewfull=1#post6131553
I thought using a relay was a bit overkill for just a simple LED,... maybe just a simple switch labeled "ALARM" in big letters as a further deterrent ???
You could use the spare spot here:
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