realistically...how much power to the wheels would one make with a hiboost kit on a stock p5? becuase hiboost claims 214 on their website but i just read a thread from YP5 were he claimed to make 183-195 hp and he has a full exhaust...can anyone explain this because the difference between 195 and 214 is pretty big...and he had a full catback exhaust. thanks
Hiboost power #'s???
- Thread starter SHAGwagn
- Start date
yea im with you jophus. im squaring away what i want appearance and audio wise, then im prolly gonna take out a loan for the turbo and use cash to pay for exhaust, guages, and any problems that arise. but this is like sometime november 04 at least. hopefully ill hit the lottery before then.
the big game here in illinois is like 171 million bucks. i couldn't imagine that much money. i'm working a little bit on my audio now too. i still have a full pioneer setup from my last car, but the speakers don't fit in wither front or back. my friend mike and i are in the process of making a fiberglass box. it's half way done, but we are still workin on it. it will house an 8" sub and my amp. i'll post picks in a few weeks of the outcome of our little project.
guys...I don't have a full exhaust. It is stock..all the way to the axle. Then from the axle is a crappy compression bent pipe that leads to a very simple Ractive exhaust (i got it for free <?xml:namespace prefix = v ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" /><v:shapetype id=_x0000_t75 stroked="f" filled="f" path="m@4@5l@4@11@9@11@9@5xe" o
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I will say that obviously....dyno's and location...and variables such as weather and altitude will vary the dyno results.
The Hiboost Kit (at 8psi) will get you to about 190 whp @ about 210 lbs of torque. One thing to consider is that the kit is programmed RICH. There is room to tune it a bit more and easily reach the 200+whp mark at 8psi. The key with the kit (and I would do this if it were my kit/company) is that it ships rich to ensure that everything is safe. With the many variables that can occur with different car setups, running a bit rich is ideal.
I have not touched the maps, but in the spring I will be fine tuning the fuel maps. I will be doing this after my new exhaust system and I will be using a wideband to properly adjust the A/F ratio.
The kit runs perfectly....and you don't need to adjust the maps. IMO it is still the best bang for the buck. Cast Iron Manifold (that flows quite well, it is not a log style), Cast Iron Downpipe (thick, solid and very efficient at channeling the exhaust gases), solid piping and construction, bolts right up to existing exhaust system (no need to visit an exhaust shop), Haltech F10 ECU (with datalogging, other options like boost controller), HKS SSQV BOV upgrade, and a very efficient and large IHI VF-22 Turbo.<o></o>
<!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
referrelative="t" o:spt="75" coordsize="21600,21600"><v:stroke joinstyle="miter"></v:stroke><v:formulas><v:f eqn="if lineDrawn pixelLineWidth 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @0 1 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum 0 0 @1"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @2 1 2"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelWidth"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelHeight"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @0 0 1"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @6 1 2"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelWidth"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @8 21600 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelHeight"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @10 21600 0"></v:f></v:formulas><vath o:connecttype="rect" gradientshapeok="t" o:extrusionok="f"></vath><?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o:lock aspectratio="t" v:ext="edit"></o:lock></v:shapetype><v:shape id=_x0000_i1025 style="WIDTH: 11.25pt; HEIGHT: 11.25pt" type="#_x0000_t75" alt=""><v:imagedata o:href=\"http://www.msprotege.com/vbb225/ubb/smile.gif\" src="file:///COCUME~1jalLOCALS~1Tempmsohtml1 1clip_image001.gif"></v:imagedata></v:shape>)I will say that obviously....dyno's and location...and variables such as weather and altitude will vary the dyno results.
The Hiboost Kit (at 8psi) will get you to about 190 whp @ about 210 lbs of torque. One thing to consider is that the kit is programmed RICH. There is room to tune it a bit more and easily reach the 200+whp mark at 8psi. The key with the kit (and I would do this if it were my kit/company) is that it ships rich to ensure that everything is safe. With the many variables that can occur with different car setups, running a bit rich is ideal.
I have not touched the maps, but in the spring I will be fine tuning the fuel maps. I will be doing this after my new exhaust system and I will be using a wideband to properly adjust the A/F ratio.
The kit runs perfectly....and you don't need to adjust the maps. IMO it is still the best bang for the buck. Cast Iron Manifold (that flows quite well, it is not a log style), Cast Iron Downpipe (thick, solid and very efficient at channeling the exhaust gases), solid piping and construction, bolts right up to existing exhaust system (no need to visit an exhaust shop), Haltech F10 ECU (with datalogging, other options like boost controller), HKS SSQV BOV upgrade, and a very efficient and large IHI VF-22 Turbo.<o
></o><!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
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I don't remember everything that wasn't quite right with deckedoutmp5's setup but he dyno'd on what has been decided was about 2.5-3 cylinders and had 198 whp. that was at MC Racing here in KC (its a fairly good dyno as it has been quoted numerous times in SCC and other mags). that was with his various mods and at stock boost or just above. feel free to PM him.
oh...and one other thing....
the piping that travels across the top of the engine, some like it others don't (which I understand). But if any of you have concerns about the piping adding heat to the intake temperature...forget about it, the FMIC takes car of cooling the air and remember the turbo itself (as in any setup) effects the air temp more than the fact that the intake piping runs over the top of the engine.
On a side note: Winters are quite cold here, and I remember logging some air temp data through the haltech and I was registering MINUS 2 degrees celius while cruising on the highway.
the piping that travels across the top of the engine, some like it others don't (which I understand). But if any of you have concerns about the piping adding heat to the intake temperature...forget about it, the FMIC takes car of cooling the air and remember the turbo itself (as in any setup) effects the air temp more than the fact that the intake piping runs over the top of the engine.
On a side note: Winters are quite cold here, and I remember logging some air temp data through the haltech and I was registering MINUS 2 degrees celius while cruising on the highway.
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how? where? how much cheaper?FC3s Boy said:
Mental Addiction
Banned
As stated above, it depends on the dyno, weather, attitude,air temp,etc.You will get a different number on different dyno's through out the country.
Our protype Protege kit is making 176whp on 6psi here in AZ.We have no tuning except for an FMU and Voltage clamp.
Our protype Protege kit is making 176whp on 6psi here in AZ.We have no tuning except for an FMU and Voltage clamp.
