HIBOOST INSTALL: My turn this time...

www.03msp.com

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2004 Acura TL
Hey everyone!

So I *finally* get my Hiboost kit yesterday. I ordered a GReddy Type-S seperately and received both packages. I also ordered a 19mm adapter for the Type-S just in case I would need it, though I won't have it for a week. Furthermore, I ordered T-clamps to accomodate the install.

Let me just iterate that doing mods to cars is not new at all for me, but I have to tell you, the install for me took quite a while.

Okay, I'll start with the good and the bad regarding this kit.

The kit came complete, well packaged up, and nice and "bling bling" shiny. I was quite surprised to see the box wasn't as big as I thought, but then again, you have to put into reference that pictures are not the same as reality.

So, what I first did was remove my set of hardpipes. Before doing this, I removed my Injen CAI (turbo to MAF side). No problem.

Next, I removed the bumper (I had a P5 and did this so many times). No problem.

I started following the instructions to the T. Without getting into great detail - Juan, the instructions are out of order. I spent countless times, ripping things apart to accomodate the installation of this part or that part. I am more than willing to edit the instructions if you shoot me a PM or whatever with an ediable link. As a word of advice, do not install pipes of any kind until you get the radiator and fan situation squared away. I had to figure out a bit more of what the instructions were trying to say, it wasn't that hard by any sorts, but could have helped.

Next, half the T-clamps I ordered were to small by 1/4 inch. I tried and tried and spent quite a bit of time and I was quite bummed. I ordered the right kind, and that is something I'll have to revisit in the future. So I am using some clamps that came with the kit - half of them.

Long story short, everything went together last night, and I even made a simple top radiator support bracket - took me 5 minutes and works awesome (too damn simple). Okay, after about 3 hours, everything was done by 1:30AM last night (kinda like Arunto install).

So this morning I check everything out and all looked good. Started the car, idles nicely, and then I throttle it. Well, I got the s*** scared out of me because of how much the GReddy Type-S vents to the atmosphere. However, after an hour of trying to tune it so the RPM's wouldn't dip so low to stall the car and after reviewing in my mind everything I read on the boards here, I didn't feel comfortable that it would work for me for every day driving. Well, I had to take the Injen back out to get to take the GReddy off and put the HKS on. This wasn't so bad, but I took the hose off of the HKS (stupid mistake) and was a big problem putting it back on. I got it all set up, and got back to square one this morning. Car runs, holy s*** - super turkey. Honestly, the HKS is a good replacement for the stock BPV, but compared to the GReddy (even in recirculation mode) it is s***. The quality of the components and the overall design sucks balls - but hey, it works, car idles nice, no problems.

So then I go to put the bumper back on. Before I do so, I followed the instructions and trimmed this and that. I was at a dilemma as I didn't want to keep the black stock grille on, but I didn't have any mesh material handy. I spent some more time and took the grille out, trimmed everything around and prepped it for an Evo-Like grille I ordered online for $32.00 shipped. I have to remember how to fix it, I think was with fiberglass - been a while since I've seen people do it. Just imageine what an Evo looks like, once I get the grill, mine will look the same (nice). So the bumper is now on.

I go drive the car, and at stock PSI (about 6PSI) (5PSI was stock, but I have an S-pipe back exhaust) the car pulled - kinda like the feeling when doing my exhaust system. I was surprised at how smooth everything was. I was more concerened with rattling, so I babied it and man "super turkey". I was confident, flipped my switch (running accuboost type solenoid) and now I was at 9.5PSI. Holy s***, MFer, the car took off like a cougar and charged like a rhino, sounds nice, turkey got louder, but nice. Made all my negative bulls*** with this, bulls*** with that, fabrication, instructions, not everything happy install go away.

The only problem that I had to deal with after the install was the cast pipe going to the throttlebody rubbed on the master brake cylinder. Okay, repositioned it a little better and put foam stuff in between, quick ride, no issues - give it time.

I do have another question for you people - the S-pipe down below, seems to slightly rub on a cylinder like device in the drivers side bottom, any way to avoid this, it seems as I tried to rotate the S, it mashed up against part of the subframe!?!

So, by the end of the week, I'll have the 19mm GReddy attachment. I'll try to vent again and see what works, it seems like 5-6 threads available is pretty dead on for idle as other people said. I will also receive the right T-clamps and mesh and do this some weekend in the future.

Overally, I am very pleased. I think the instructions need to be better documented and I did have to utilize a few of my own nuts and bolts, then $2.00 for a custom bracket.

EDIT: NEW PIX

engine.jpg


front.jpg


intercooler.jpg


- Brian

P.S. A buddy of mine is ordering the same kit, same car, and in 2-3 weeks I have to do it all over again. I would probably be able to do it in 3 hours versus the 8 I spent (partitioned throughout last night and today).
 
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jflo said:
hey, got closer pics of your radiator mount for others to see ?
I'll try to take one.

This is what I did: I put the existing bracket that held the SMIC in place back on. I then took a piece of an aluminum bar and measured about 8-10" or so. I then drilled an 1/4 hole about one inch from one side. I placed the bar over the protruding plastic on the radiator. Then, from left of the radio the bar went over the SMIC bracket. I made a dot then drilled a hole above the SMIC bracket where a hole on the new bracket would line up with that of the existing bracket. Also, on the aluminum, I made a line where the left of the SMIC bracket was and bent the aluminum down (in a vice) and turned my new bracket to an L bracket. I then put a bolt, two washers, and a nut through the top of the aluminum bracket and secured it to the SMIC bracket. Wala, no movement of the radiator.

- Brian
 
03msp looks nice man i have the same kit i want to order a greddy type s also please tell me what i need to get to make it work right. here are some pics of mine ill put them in heremsp6.msp 6msp7just click on these.
 
also did your hose from the hks kink when you routed it to the injen mine did some so i changed it and put it under the pipe.
 
ZMN BY U said:
03msp looks nice man i have the same kit i want to order a greddy type s also please tell me what i need to get to make it work right. here are some pics of mine ill put them in heremsp6.msp 6msp7just click on these.
Type-S, 19mm adapter - 2 band clamps.
 
www.03msp.com said:
I'll try to take one.

This is what I did: I put the existing bracket that held the SMIC in place back on. I then took a piece of an aluminum bar and measured about 8-10" or so. I then drilled an 1/4 hole about one inch from one side. I placed the bar over the protruding plastic on the radiator. Then, from left of the radio the bar went over the SMIC bracket. I made a dot then drilled a hole above the SMIC bracket where a hole on the new bracket would line up with that of the existing bracket. Also, on the aluminum, I made a line where the left of the SMIC bracket was and bent the aluminum down (in a vice) and turned my new bracket to an L bracket. I then put a bolt, two washers, and a nut through the top of the aluminum bracket and secured it to the SMIC bracket. Wala, no movement of the radiator.

- Brian
As promised, picture of bracket...

icbracket.jpg
 
I also just did the "clank" test on the pipes. Anywhere where I felt I heard a clank or thought the pipes were touching something else metal, I had insulated it with 19mm hose cut to about 3 inches and then in half so I would make a square or so. The locations were pipe under the center grill touching the vertical support beam. The second location was pipe touching the metal fan shield that was added to the fan. The third location was master brake cylinder (put foam there last night, may need to use rubber. Lastly, the damn S-pipe off of the intercooler barely with coupling touched the cylinder to the lower part of the drivers side and the other side rubbed against the lower radiator mount. To make sure all was good, I rotozipped a 1/4" boomerang off of the lower radiator mount and insulated with double rubber (like listed above. No more rub, all is nice and quiet. I used tie wraps to holed the rubber in little places on the pipe. Other people may not have these issues, but I don't see how.

- Brian
 
i have no problem with mine rubbing either i did at first on the master cylinder but fixed it. Did you buy a longer hose or shorter hose for the bov that goes to the intake. Where do you have your mbc located in the engine bay or you have a ebc.
 
ZMN BY U said:
i have no problem with mine rubbing either i did at first on the master cylinder but fixed it. Did you buy a longer hose or shorter hose for the bov that goes to the intake. Where do you have your mbc located in the engine bay or you have a ebc.
The hose I got from Juan was 2 feet. I bought 4 feet. I am only going to use about 2.5 feet of the new stuff, the rest I used for rubbing/padding. I'm anal when it comes to installs, so even if I "think" it may clank, I'm still going to do something about it.
 
jflo said:
(thumb) cool that should help out a lot of people that still worry about their rads w/ this FMIC
Yup, I didn't understand how so many people phrased this as being hard. I figured it out right away. Heck I was prepared to laser cut something and mass produce it, but didn't need to do it. A few bucks and it was done. A simple hacksaw, drill, 1/4" drill bit and a vice is all you need. Heck, a vice is optional.

- Brian
 
I used a ziptie and the stock rad mount :)

as for your question about the S-Pipe piece. I moved mine about 1/4" towards the radiator and found that it would not rub the a/c cylinder. after doing that it also gave me clearance in between the master cylinder in the top too.
 
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Brian, glad to see the kit arrived and (for the most part) all is well and you enjoy it!
 
By far the best write up i've read. I think this is as close of a feeling anyone can get to actually installing the kit w/o doing it.

Hey, when your friend installs the kit, can you do a How-To of your own. I think YOU are the only one who can write up a better instructions since you will be doing this twice. Again, you even offered to edit Juan's original instructions. Here's your chance

Thanks!!
 
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