HiBoost install - Greddy Type-S + BPV (no 56k)
- Thread starter CasopoliS
- Start date
raku said:
Well you have to press very hard on the heatsheild with the buffing tool. Don't know how this is done with a dremel. The buffing wheel cannot be too soft....you must get a dense wheel. The heatsheild should shine without the compund. You can almost get it looking like a mirror without the compound at all. The compound just adds a "chrome" look, but well worth it. It makes for a fine buff, and to be used last after the "rough" buff you initially did. I guess all I can say is keep it up. The buffing wheel should turn black while doing this. I am noticing my heatsheild slightly "browning"....so I will have to polish mine again. Good luck.
ONRAILS said:
Yea I will set my level 2 boost at 10psi, and my daily driving at 8psi. I hardly use all of my boost anyway. I bumped it up the other day and accelerated fast....may max boost read by the HKS EVC was 9.3. It seemed to pull JUST a bit faster than the 7.8 it was reading before. I really didn't try it out enough. I can turn the knob a little more so I max out around 10. Thanks for all the input....car is running well. Wishing I had engine mounts....
Well, I've been studying this thread for this whole week and here are my results.
I welded a nipple similarly and in the same location as you did^
I placed the stock bpv in, facing the correct direction and ran it to my intake.
It started to get late so I tried to T-off the vac from my greddy and ran it to the bpv (instead of tapping in to the bb hose)
... And when I went for a test drive, I stalled horribly. Would tapping into the BB line Fix this? I'm going to try again tomorrow night. I would've taken pics but my digi cam ran out of batteries.
PLEASE HELP!!!
I welded a nipple similarly and in the same location as you did^
I placed the stock bpv in, facing the correct direction and ran it to my intake.
It started to get late so I tried to T-off the vac from my greddy and ran it to the bpv (instead of tapping in to the bb hose)
... And when I went for a test drive, I stalled horribly. Would tapping into the BB line Fix this? I'm going to try again tomorrow night. I would've taken pics but my digi cam ran out of batteries.
PLEASE HELP!!!
ChiMSP said:
When did it stall? What exactly happened?
I am guessing there is a 'hole' somewhere after your turbo. Either a coupler is loose, or a hose came off a nipple.... I dunno. Once my BPV hose came off the nipple and I stalled whenever sitting still. I could start the car if I revved it a bit, but when the air flow was slow it would ALL creep out of the hole and I would stall. Also, tighten the Type-S enough to where you don't get the buck right as you shift. I think a little past half way (tight) is where mine is. I do not think tapping into the type-S vac source woudl cause stalling.... it shoudl still work, it just not ideal. Give me more details and I will try to help.
ChiMSP said:
No prob. Yea look for a leak after the MAF. That will cause you to stall just standing there. It must be a major leak though, to leak out enough air for your engine to choke. Check your vac connections too, make sure there are no leaks there.
ChiMSP said:
Yes, it is after the MAF. Again, it would have to be a considerable leak. Check your IC -> TB pipe as well. Small leaks can be found with carb cleaner or torch gas near the couplers, but small leaks will not stall you.
So it stalls when you come to a stop? Does it stall after you shift? Try to explain the nature of the stall.... that might help. I have solved about three stalling issues on my car since I have pwned it.
Right after I shift it want to turn off, and i have to fight with it by givinf it gas so it'll stay on:mad:
I just got back from my garage and I tightened and checked all the clamps and its still stalss wheni rev the engine. The rpms drop all the way down.
I just got back from my garage and I tightened and checked all the clamps and its still stalss wheni rev the engine. The rpms drop all the way down.
ChiMSP said:
When it idles, you should feel no breeze. Make sure the Type-S is screwed down well, make sure the screw is on the hard setting (3/4 the way down). Even with the screw loose, it should still work, just not well. Its like you are not recircing any air....I dunno. You are stalling way too much. Is your MAF hooked up well? You would throw CEL tho. Hmmm... man just tripple check everything. I'm lost. Let us know if you fix it and what was causing it so we can all learn from your misfortunes
Good luck!
